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Cleaning the block on a head swap!

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Old 10-13-2004, 11:39 PM
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Default Cleaning the block on a head swap!

Should I be getting the block more clean then this? I've been using gasket remover and 230 grit sand paper to clean off the graphite. It feels smooth to the touch, but you an still see some black here and there. Should I clean more, or no?

pics attatched.

thanks!
Old 10-14-2004, 03:19 AM
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No pic................
Old 10-14-2004, 08:28 AM
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Oops, didn't realize they were too big before
Attached Thumbnails Cleaning the block on a head swap!-dsc01546.jpg   Cleaning the block on a head swap!-dsc01550.jpg   Cleaning the block on a head swap!-dsc01547.jpg   Cleaning the block on a head swap!-dsc01548.jpg   Cleaning the block on a head swap!-dsc01549.jpg  

Old 10-14-2004, 09:02 AM
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Looks Ok,
I would go ahead and clean up those pistons a little, At TDC with a little scotchbrite.
Avoid overuse of the sand paper, especially between pistons. Also don't forget to clean the bolt holes dry.
Old 10-14-2004, 09:17 AM
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TDC?? is it easy to crank the motor by hand to bring each piston to the top?

Yeah, I was *trying* to not go overboard. I was thinking of going over the block with some 400 or 600 just to knock down the high stratches the sand paper left... you really cant feel them with your finger, a few of them you can just make out with the tip of your finger nail.
Old 10-14-2004, 10:24 AM
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Yeah, it's easy enough, that way you eliminate any hot spots from carbon build up. You can use GM top end cleaner, let it soak a little, then Scotchbrite. Don't forget to change the oil and filter after that.
Old 10-14-2004, 10:56 AM
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Do you have a air compressor? If so get a dremel and put a buffing / cleaning wheel in it and it will make that deck very clean very fast.
Old 10-14-2004, 11:30 AM
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Sandpaper?

Use a razor blade. Be careful on those pistons. If you put a scratch in one, it's become a hot spot and cause pre-ignition.
Old 10-14-2004, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by technical
Sandpaper?

Use a razor blade. Be careful on those pistons. If you put a scratch in one, it's become a hot spot and cause pre-ignition.
Razor Blade?

Do not use any metal items on pistons. Use a plastic scraper if necessary and Scotchbrite (without forcing it)
Old 10-14-2004, 11:40 AM
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razorblades are better for the deck surface, but I wouldn't touch the pistons.
Old 10-14-2004, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Razor Blade?

Do not use any metal items on pistons. Use a plastic scraper if necessary and Scotchbrite (without forcing it)
Sorry, the sentences ran together...

Blade on the block only, not sandpaper.
Personally I would leave the pistons alone, you're only asking for trouble.
Old 10-14-2004, 12:19 PM
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it's ok I used sand paper on the block, right? 230 is not too abrasive.

I think i'll leave the pistons alone.... that's a road i don't need to go down.
Old 10-14-2004, 12:26 PM
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As long as you didn't gouge the aluminum, you'll be ok. Think "scraper" next time
Old 10-14-2004, 12:26 PM
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I would also leave the pistons alone, I use a razor to get all the big stuff off then I go over it with a 3m roloc but the pics look pretty good IMO, I would spray some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe them down just to make sure there is no oil on the deck. Good luck!
Old 10-14-2004, 12:45 PM
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Here's a couple more pictures ... close ones where I show places that have scratched that concirn me.

As long as you didn't gouge the aluminum, you'll be ok. Think "scraper" next time
I did use a plastic ice scraper like the ls1howto states, but there was still a layer of graphite the scraper didnt get; hence the sand paper. Even used gasket remover with no avail.

I definitly didnt gouge the block, and all of the scratches you can't feel with your finger flesh. Just a couple you can scrape your fingernail down and barely barely feel the indentation. As long as that's ok I shouldn't have a problem.

Sorry i'm ****, this is my first head swap and I know this is the most important part besides cleaning the bolt holes of coolant and gunk.

Another question I had has to do with the plastick pieces bolted to the block above the cam gears... can I take those out and clean them of debris and just bolt them back in?

I would spray some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe them down just to make sure there is no oil on the deck
thanks for the tip!
Attached Thumbnails Cleaning the block on a head swap!-dsc01553.jpg   Cleaning the block on a head swap!-dsc01550.jpg   Cleaning the block on a head swap!-dsc01554.jpg   Cleaning the block on a head swap!-dsc01555.jpg   Cleaning the block on a head swap!-dsc01556.jpg  

Old 10-14-2004, 12:55 PM
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The deck looks ok. I do see quite a bit of aluminum shavings lying around. Make sure you clean all that up. You don't want that stuff in your engine. Make sure to change the oil.

The plastic parts are the lifter retainers. You can remove them, but I don't remember the torque spec for those bolts.
Old 10-14-2004, 01:05 PM
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Change the oil before i start it?
Old 10-14-2004, 01:15 PM
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a wet/dry vac is all ways a good move too. Go over the entire deck, pistons and lifter area to make sure you get any big pieces that you may have missed. I generally pour some fresh oil over the lifter area as well and put a thin coat on the cyl. walls once everything is clean right before the head goes on. Yeah, change the oil/filter to some cheapy stuff before you start it and then after you put some miles on it change back to your regular stuff. I also put some fresh oil on the rockers/springs right before putting the valve cover back on.
Old 10-14-2004, 01:52 PM
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Why are you afraid to touch the pistons??
You mean this is your first H/C install, you go through all the pain you have, without experince, then you back off at the pistons??
They are not eggshells you know.
Old 10-14-2004, 01:55 PM
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ok, I can do that... thanks!

as for these damn bolt holes... ive been just putting one of the old bolts in and out ...in and out... cleaning it each time to try to get the gunk out... the bolt is comming out pretty clean, but it looks like i can still see crap in there.. what can i do?


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