8-Pack

What else do I need besides the pump, a new crank pulley bolt, and the front timing cover seal. Do I need a pan gasket? What about an o-ring is it safe to reuse or should I get a new one? Will any o-ring work or is there something special about this one? Also I am reading the install off of ls1howto.com and I am a little confused by the pulling the crank pulley off, I have never used a crank pulley puller before, it is probablly something that I need to see to understand but could someone explain it. thanks

luv2spd

iTrader: (1)

I would recommend getting a new oring from the dealer. It's not worth the risk of having to tear it all down again to replace the oring. You don't need a new pan gasket. Use some rtv gasket maker along the bottom of the front cover when you put it back on to ensure that it doesn't leak.

PhoneniX

I found the thread after searching to answer my question about reusing the oil pan gasket. so thank you

And to help you out when you buy a new oil pump they tend to come with two o-rings. I got a slp pump that had a black o-ring used on smooth pick up tubes like my 00 ls1 has, and a thicker green one for use on flanged oil pickup tube styles.
Further reinstalling the pickup tube to the pump I used a pair of needlenose pliers on the bolts shank to grab the first thread, and an open ended 10mm wrench to tighten the pickup tube back on the pump. I stuffed a rag in the oil pan to catch the bolt, worked like a charm as I dropped the bolt 3 times into the rag. its quite tricky to reinstall.

I was thrown off by what appears to be a key way in one of the oil pump inner gear to crank teeth, as there is no key to be matched up to on the new slp double roller timing chain sprocket. But no worries the pump slid right on to the sprocket first try, I suppose that is a redundant keyway cut into the pump.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

When you remove the pan, it's possible that those spots at the corners that require a bit of sealant, will be more stubborn to separate.
If you are too aggressive, you may bend the gasket, which will alter the way it lines up between the pan & block.
So, pry gently and keep an eye on what is happening.

PhoneniX

One more question?
I poured some engine assembly lube a friend had sitting around into the oil pump just before install. As I spun it by hand it was certainly thick. worried, I sprayed the fogging oil I have been using on the cylinders in to thin it out prior to install.
After fogging oil/ assembly lube mix it was spinning good with little to fair resistance.

NOTE: I didn't add so much assembly lube that it ever dripped/leaked out of the pump gear. The instructions from ls1howo nore the SLP pump "instructions" said anything about pre-lubing the O.P. I didn't like the idea of starting with a dry oil pump in a few weeks when I'm done.

Just looking to confirm that I'm good?

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

^^I think that is just fine.
A couple of members here, pack their pumps with vaseline. I, personally, wouldn't want a plug of vaseline going through what is supposed to be an oiling system, but those people say that the vaseline soon liquefies.

Justus67

iTrader: (3)

A cheap way to prime the pump, is to fill the crank case, pull the plugs and bump the starter a few time. Its worked on the ones I've done just fine. Just make sure you prime it before you hit the road/track. I've heard of the vaseline trick too, just never tried it.

CHEVELLEPOSSE

New pumps come with O rings like said above a little rtv high temp make sure your pump fits with no mods I had bought a Mellon high flow and it had to hack my front cover to fit

.boB

iTrader: (1)

Packing the pump with vasoline is a trick that's been around for 40-50 years. I remember doing that in the first SBC I rebuilt in the late 70's.

Sometimes getting the oil pump to prime on the first turn of the engine is a trial. The vasoline helps create a suction immediately. It's petroleum jelly, so it mixes with the oil just fine.

I have to admit that I haven't done that in at least a decade, I never have problems getting pressure right away.