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Strange problem torquing down AFR 205's.

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Old 10-31-2004, 10:34 PM
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Default Strange problem torquing down AFR 205's.

I am was in the middle of installing some AFR 205's, while torquing down the head's using the JMX write up using ARP bolt's. I was on the last pass of torquing down the ARP head bolt's at 70 lbsft. when I torqued the first bolt would turn and then my torque wrench would click at 70 lbsft, then the 2nd bolt the same thing but when I got to the third bolt the bolt NEVER DID TURN before my torque wrench clicked, I thought that was kind of weird . I went a head and torqued the rest of the bolt's and the rest of the bolt's would turn and then my torque wrench would click at 70 lbsft as normal. I know I did'nt go out of the bolt sequence because my brother was there watching the whole process, before I mounted the heads I did clean the block and bolt holes, was able to suck out all the coolent from the bolt holes using a shop vac and some aquarium air line so I'm damb sure I'm not hydrolocking the bolts and I did'nt have moly lube so I used motor oil on the ARP bolt's, I was thinking of losening all the head bolt's and the torquing then down again. If I do torque them down again can I use the same graphite head gasket? or do I have to get a new head gasket? I have a 01 LS1 with the graphite head gaskets. I just wanted see what yall think and hear everyones opinions on this. Thanx

Last edited by Oatmeal; 11-01-2004 at 01:04 AM.
Old 11-01-2004, 12:34 AM
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Default head bolt problem

It sounds like that head bolt is bottoming out. Some guys were complaining the ARP bolts are too long but I believe the problem is some blocks aren't threaded deep enough.

I have a thread rolling tool I run through the used blocks I install the MID sleeves in which increases the depth of the thread by several turns. These tools are not readily available however. A couple of guys broke theirs off in their blocks and sued the manufacturer.

Best way to fix this would be to shorten the bolts a thread or two in a lathe. Do not grind them.

Get yourself some of the ARP moly lube. Do not torque with oil. Your head gaskets are fine. No need to replace them.

Steve



Originally Posted by LBCSS
I am was in the middle of installing some AFR 205's, while torquing down the head's using the JMX write up using ARP bolt's. I was on the last pass of torquing down the ARP head bolt's at 70 lbsft. when I torqued the first bolt would turn and then my torque wrench would click at 70 lbsft, then the 2nd bolt the same thing but when I got to the third bolt the bolt DID NOT TURN, my torque wrench just instantly clicked, I thought that was kind of weird . I went a head and torqued the rest of the bolt's and the rest of the bolt's would turn and then my torque wrench would click at 70 lbsft as normal. I know I did'nt go out of the bolt sequence because my brother was there watching the whole process, before I mounted the heads I did clean the block and bolt holes, was able to suck out all the coolent from the bolt holes using a shop vac and some aquarium air line so I'm damb sure I'm not hydrolocking the bolts and I did'nt have moly lube so I used motor oil on the ARP bolt's, I was thinking of losening all the head bolt's and the torquing then down again. If I do torque them down again can I use the same graphite head gasket? or do I have to get a new head gasket? I have a 01 LS1 with the graphite head gaskets. I just wanted see what yall think and hear everyones opinions on this. Thanx
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Old 11-01-2004, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve - Race Eng
It sounds like that head bolt is bottoming out. Some guys were complaining the ARP bolts are too long but I believe the problem is some blocks aren't threaded deep enough.

I have a thread rolling tool I run through the used blocks I install the MID sleeves in which increases the depth of the thread by several turns. These tools are not readily available however. A couple of guys broke theirs off in their blocks and sued the manufacturer.

Best way to fix this would be to shorten the bolts a thread or two in a lathe. Do not grind them.

Get yourself some of the ARP moly lube. Do not torque with oil. Your head gaskets are fine. No need to replace them.

Steve
If that's the case, Do you think I could use another another ARP washer on the bolt thats too long? and thanx again for the reply.
Old 11-01-2004, 08:58 AM
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Washers...hmmm, Thats a good question.

Are your heads milled ?
Old 11-01-2004, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Mirek
Washers...hmmm, Thats a good question.

Are your heads milled ?
NO, I wanted stock like compession in cali.
Old 11-01-2004, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by LBCSS
NO, I wanted stock like compession in cali.
I can't think of any reason not to use lock washers other than clearance issues (interference of the bolt heads). Anyone else have thoughts?
Old 11-01-2004, 12:51 PM
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TTT
Are the stock TTY bolts the same length of the ARP's before or after they are stretched ?
Has anyone EVER had a problem like this with a new stock GM bolt ?
Old 11-01-2004, 01:02 PM
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I have AFR 205's and I used the stock tty head bolts w/o any problems.
Old 11-01-2004, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by m1key99WS6
I have AFR 205's and I used the stock tty head bolts w/o any problems.
I used ARP bolt's because AFR recomends it to keep the bolt's from possibly Maring the head.

Last edited by Oatmeal; 11-01-2004 at 01:30 PM.



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