How many of you have gotten away w/just replacing the rod bolts spinning high rpms?
11-06-2004, 12:14 PM
#1
How many of you have gotten away w/just replacing the rod bolts spinning high rpms? I was just curious as to how many of you have replaced the rod bolts only and have gotten away with it while spinning your motor around 7000 or more. I know a lot have said not to do this without resizing the rod ends for proper bore size. I dont wanna pull the motor out just for that even though its recommend and Im sure theres a lot of you out there that skipped that step and just replaced the rod bolts. Well if you have, tell me a little about your set up and if youve run into any problems whatsoever. Thanks.
11-06-2004, 12:17 PM
#2
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Wow, you are dedicated. This is your sixth thread started in 3 pgs. I don't have an answer to you question, but I sure hope whatever setup you choose kicks tail after all of your posting.
11-06-2004, 12:51 PM
#3
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I have had no problems with my rod bolts. It has been little over a year now. I'm running ARP pro rod bolts, TR227 cam, Comp 918's with Ti retainers, ARE oil pump, milled stock heads with Ferrea valves, LS6 intake, SLP LT, and no tuning. It made 390 hp and 377 ft-lbs on the dyno. I usually spin it to 6800 rpms, but the rev limiter is set to 7k.
11-06-2004, 01:22 PM
#5
Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
I dont wanna pull the motor out just for that even though its recommend and Im sure theres a lot of you out there that skipped that step and just replaced the rod bolts.
Why not pull the engine?
What do you want to do with the car? Drag racing, road courses, autocross?
What kind of torque wrench do you have?
What type of Loctite do you normally use?
11-06-2004, 01:32 PM
#6
SEARCH!
Either way, just b/c "X" number of people did NOT re-size, heck even measure their rod bearing bores with the new ARP bolts, and they haven't had problems doesn't mean you won't based on that data.
This info will not accurately predict whether you will or will not have issues. The only way to know is to do it the right way. If it's not done the right way, one can only cross their fingers each time they spin it up that high. Pretty risky procedure if it were my LS1. These motors ain't cheap to repair.
Bottom line, either suck it up and do it right and feel comfy or don't and worry it'll break.
Either way, just b/c "X" number of people did NOT re-size, heck even measure their rod bearing bores with the new ARP bolts, and they haven't had problems doesn't mean you won't based on that data.
This info will not accurately predict whether you will or will not have issues. The only way to know is to do it the right way. If it's not done the right way, one can only cross their fingers each time they spin it up that high. Pretty risky procedure if it were my LS1. These motors ain't cheap to repair.
Bottom line, either suck it up and do it right and feel comfy or don't and worry it'll break.
11-06-2004, 02:20 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by term
Why not just buy a new set of rods? The stock crank holds up great, rods are cheap, might as well do it right.
just my .02
just my .02
Point is that some folks like to maximize the return on their investment and only spend money where needed.
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11-06-2004, 03:39 PM
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I did for about a year and half with no problems then got a rod know at the track one night. LS1 stock rods cannot be resized so need to to even attemp it. You can do it in the car but your going to have to have en engine cradle and remove the front suspension.
this was on a heads and cam car shifting @6500 for a year and half tried shiftin 6900 for a weekend and it let go. I raced this car just about every weekend at the track. Best et at the time was 7.17 in the 1/8
this was on a heads and cam car shifting @6500 for a year and half tried shiftin 6900 for a weekend and it let go. I raced this car just about every weekend at the track. Best et at the time was 7.17 in the 1/8
11-07-2004, 09:09 AM
#9
This is what came out of a friends motor that was spun to 7K often. It was a stock bottom end with ARP bolts. Oh, and this is the windage tray.
I have stock crank and rods with ARP bolts and JE forged pistons, and the limiter is at 6800. I usually shift at 65-6600.
I have stock crank and rods with ARP bolts and JE forged pistons, and the limiter is at 6800. I usually shift at 65-6600.
11-07-2004, 09:18 AM
#11
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
98_1le, Damn!
11-08-2004, 11:19 PM
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<-- Turned 7000 a whole whole lot on the non-pro series ARP bolts. My clutch needed to be shimmed, so missing gears trying to shift at 6800-6900 was a daily occurance.. lol..
Peace,
Josh
Peace,
Josh
11-09-2004, 11:48 AM
#16
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I have rod bolts that were installed when the motor was fully rebuilt out of the car, so are yall saying im still gona have problems. OR is it just thoes that do it while the motor is in the car.
Last edited by stang killer; 11-09-2004 at 02:40 PM.
11-09-2004, 11:57 AM
#17
Originally Posted by stang killer
I have rod bolts that were installed when the motor was funny rebuilt out of the car, so are yall saying im still gona have problems. OR is it just thoes that do it while the motor is in the car.
11-09-2004, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by crainholio
Depends what was funny about the rebuild. What clearance and concentricity did the funny builder measure when it torqued the new bolts into place?
11-09-2004, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by z-ya
Oversive rod bearings are avalable to rebuild the stock rods,you just don't do it the usual way.
