Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Can I get input on these piston/block pics for my set-up.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-20-2004, 09:22 AM
  #1  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
 
Mirek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Berkley, MI
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Can I get input on these piston/block pics for my set-up.

Ok the car is apart and I have a couple of "open issues" that I could really use some reputable input on. I did as much research as possible and here is a summary of those few things I need help with. I blame all you monkeys for making me attempt this so help a brotha out !http://community.webshots.com/album/219469797YkVfad

Evidently there is no thin composite gasket available (thanks for the effort Z-ya) . Take a look at the small circular smooth "indention" shown in the pics, it is above the bottom rearmost bolt below the waterjacket. The "black" stuff around it is just gasket material. You can kind of get a feel for its shape and depth if you take a zoomed look. The dealer had the heads off for the re-ring. Is this groove a problem with the cometics/mls ? (I do not want to run .050+ gaskets for quench reasons).

Also
Take a look at the "small" intake eyebrow on one of those Pistons (I hit two pistons over reving and this is the worst of the two) this was done floating manley single springs w/ a 222/222 566/566 112. I plan to mill afr's .024 and run a thinner (.043/.040) gasket (for app.quench) given that the AFR's have an additional (call it .010) clearance I will be approx .024 lower and I really hope that this will not be a problem again with better springs. Hopefully the AFR's have better single springs. The AFR's also have bigger valves (2.02)which could hit this newley formed piton "ridge" (right?)

And Finally...
I have run this cam for about a year and it kicks *** should I have to worry about P/V clearance or having to degree the cam or should I be good to go without checking P/V I mean it was installed dot to dot and has been running good strong so It should not be installed "incorrectly" enough to comprimise P/V Right ?

These are some tough ones I'm stuck on so thanks to anybody who can help.

http://community.webshots.com/album/219469797YkVfad
Old 11-20-2004, 09:38 AM
  #2  
TECH Senior Member
 
PREDATOR-Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: BFE
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes on 16 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Mirek
Ok the car is apart and I have a couple of "open issues" that I could really use some reputable input on. I did as much research as possible and here is a summary of those few things I need help with. I blame all you monkeys for making me attempt this so help a brotha out !http://community.webshots.com/album/219469797YkVfad

Evidently there is no thin composite gasket available (thanks for the effort Z-ya) . Take a look at the small circular smooth "indention" shown in the pics, it is above the bottom rearmost bolt below the waterjacket. The "black" stuff around it is just gasket material. You can kind of get a feel for its shape and depth if you take a zoomed look. The dealer had the heads off for the re-ring. Is this groove a problem with the cometics/mls ? (I do not want to run .050+ gaskets for quench reasons).
On the thin composite gasket, I told you so but you wouldn't believe me. Just mill your heads enough to achieve the desired CR with a stock graphite gasket.

Also
Take a look at the "small" intake eyebrow on one of those Pistons (I hit two pistons over reving and this is the worst of the two) this was done floating manley single springs w/ a 222/222 566/566 112. I plan to mill afr's .024 and run a thinner (.043/.040) gasket (for app.quench) given that the AFR's have an additional (call it .010) clearance I will be approx .024 lower and I really hope that this will not be a problem again with better springs. Hopefully the AFR's have better single springs. The AFR's also have bigger valves (2.02)which could hit this newley formed piton "ridge" (right?)
If you want my opinion, change both pistons.
If not make sure you debur the notches and smooth them out to prevent hot spots that will kill you in KR output.

And Finally...
I have run this cam for about a year and it kicks *** should I have to worry about P/V clearance or having to degree the cam or should I be good to go without checking P/V I mean it was installed dot to dot and has been running good strong so It should not be installed "incorrectly" enough to comprimise P/V Right ?
Degree the cam no matter how confident you are it is all right. Ask ANY vendor/shop, and they will tell you the same.

Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 11-20-2004 at 01:10 PM.
Old 11-20-2004, 10:15 AM
  #3  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
 
Mirek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Berkley, MI
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for the input. It is not that I did not believe you just that the felpro was NOT mls as you stated *EDIT*....I wanted to be clear on that to start with.
Also milling the heads does not have any impact on quench.

I figure the cam cannot be installed incorrectly since I have been rocking out with it for a year and thusly would not need to be degreed for a headswap (the net .024 decrease in clearance is the real matter) but I know what your saying about better safe than sorry and I agree.

I do not believe removing the piston to be neccessary given the damage but smoothing it out certainly cannot hurt. My concern is an .02 bigger valve hitting the ridge. The piston itself is just fine.
Old 11-20-2004, 01:45 PM
  #4  
TECH Senior Member
 
PREDATOR-Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: BFE
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes on 16 Posts

Default

Quench is the distance from the top of the piston to the bottom of the head.
Compressed Gasket thickness + { Deck Height - (Rod Length + 1/2*Stroke + Compression Height of piston)}

I missinterpreted myself, sorry for that.
I would change the pistons but that is because I use Nitrous.
But also, are you sure you do not have any piston damage? Besides the notches.
I mean no skirt crack or rod bearing damage?
See if that happenned to me I would tear it to find out and since it's torn I would replace the pistons (but keep the rings) In the same order they came out.
Of course, I'm slightly on the perfectionist side when it comes to my motor.
Old 11-23-2004, 06:47 PM
  #5  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
 
Mirek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Berkley, MI
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Predator-z thanks for the input I do appreciate it & Z-ya I appeciate your effort on the earlier gasket clarification post(the lack of Input on that is VERY scary being this is a supposed to be a "technical forum" and after 350+ views on that particular post we still are kind of "up in the air" as far as specific aftermarket composite gasket offerings --- with no supplier input from the sponsors inside this country)

I guess I can check ilovemycorvette.com or something for that sort of specific real technical info.

Evidently thats all the technical expertise & opinion this board has to offer and thats a shame , perhaps I should have also asked "which dual exhaust will impress my little sisters freinds" then maybe I could have watched this post for more than 5 minutes. Not to mention I was also misinformed along the way about quench and had to call that out (no offense). Of couse everything is going to be measured accordingly but I would like to think detail at this level this build-up can be discussed for the benefit of myself and all of the future searches that this post pops up in (I think there may be a few more searches on the AFR heads but I may be wrong (?!).
Old 11-23-2004, 08:33 PM
  #6  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
pkincy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Scottsdale, Az
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I found the same problem on the motor after a tear down. I pulled the stock pistons and had 2 cc eyebrows fly cut in the pistons. I recall the machine shop did it in a day for 90$

Perry




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:49 PM.