KCamaro

Well long story short my father being cool as he is has offered to purchase a cam or cd player for my car for christmas. The cd player I've got covered with my next paycheck. I was looking for some suggestions on what cam I should ask for. Also I'll need to know what other bits and pieces (springs, retainers etc.) I will need. I'm planning on making my car cam only until I have sold my bike to get enough money for heads/n2o. I've heard alot of good things about the G5-X2 and X3s but I am not partial to any cam. I would like to maintain great streetability as this is my daily driver. I was planning on buying headers and then a 4000 stall as the next two mods but it if I can get a cam for free it couldnt hurt to throw it in first

any help appreciated. I'll check back often for any questions or comments.

PREDATOR-Z

First goal is "what do you want to do with your car?" Street or track or street/strip
Then you can do a "search" and read a lot about different cams and the way they drive/perform.
Also might want to check on your State's emission laws so you do not buy something that won't pass.

KCamaro

Emissions I can pass

I'm wanting a primarily street car with track for occasionaly fun nights. I'd like to be at or slightly above 400 on motor when all is said and done. If possible I'd like to be real close to that number w/out heads but w/full bolt-ons.

I'm leaning more toward the thunder racing 224/224 .563" I'm not sure on 112 or 114 LSA or if stock retainers would be capable of working or if I should buy the titainium retainers.

PREDATOR-Z

Check MTI Stealth II
224/220, .581/.581 116lsa XE-R
I got it cam only + full bolt on + VIG 3200 +10 bolt 3:73 >>> 404rwhp/383rwtrq.
Thing is it is not a lopey cam.

KCamaro

I dont need alot of lope, just something that is going to sound nice through loudmouths and headers. I'll check the stealth II cam thunder seems to have a pretty nice deal on their 224 (edited above post)

PREDATOR-Z

Maybe I'm biased , but from personal experience on the Stealth II and reading a lot of post on the TR224, very few achieve 400rwhp with that cam only in A4. I would think more like 360> 370ish.
You can get a Comp Cam 224/224, .581/.581 112/114 lsa XE-R, or FM2 224/224, .588/.588 112/114lsa (Futral)
I believe those would be slightly more powerful than TR224

KCamaro

From what I've read the Stealth II does sound like a better cam, and you seem to be making nice numbers on it. What would you suggest as far as retainers and springs? I'm basically a clean slate when it comes to cam knowledge and greatly appreciate your help thus far

PREDATOR-Z

Well one of my research benefits is that I learned that the lightest valvetrain weight possible is a plus and gets you a few more ponies. Im still running 241 stock castings but i put in LS6 valves, 918 springs, tit retainers, super 7 locks and chrome molly p-rods.
You can run stock retainers with 918's (comp cam) and hardened p-rods (that is the cheapest way to go.
Keep in mind that you'll need to check those springs once a year or 15K miles with the XE-R lobes (xtreem energy race=XE-R)
I get more bites on street challenges, since no one really suspects that I have a cam in it, boy do they get surprised often, even poeple with much larger cams. I also have spray just in case.

KCamaro

I'm planning on having spray eventually but more than likely not until the car is paid off, 400 should be sufficient until I own her. If I was to get the stealth II cam would you suggest the same set up you have? Or would you have done something different? Price isnt really an issue, we (father and I) would rather the car be safely running than save a few bucks.

PREDATOR-Z

If I were you this is what I would do: In that order.
Headers (Macs or LTs)>Higher stall (VIG 3200 or TCI 3500 or Yank ST3500)> gears if you have 2:73's if 3:23 no bother>LS6 intake>cam+valvetrain+tune.
I ran short of money or I would have put a set of AFR heads on mine, so I just looked at maximising the 241's without porting.
You will be fine running 918's+ hard p-rods with just a cam.
The reason I say this is if you just put any cam on your car as is, you'll be dissapointed because you do not have the bolt ons to support it.
Headers first to breathe, stall 2nd to get you to go quicker and enjoy a potentially good stock motor, LS6 to breathe some more, and then cam to wake all of that stuff up.

KCamaro

I know the order these things normally occur in, but if I can get a cam for christmas with no charge from my pocket I'll do a couple out of order. Headers I'm not above buying used off of the classifieds so I can get them when they show up. The stall I've got picked just a matter of getting the scratch for it.
So with either the stealth II or 224/224 I'll need new pushrods but my stock retainers will work?

txhorns281

iTrader: (12)

yes... if you can wait, i'd put the cam in one you've got some LTs and more boltons... You're gonna choke it, and tuning for it won't be easy either...

Plus it'll suck when you get pulled by a stock cam car and he asks you what ya got!

tomaSS

iTrader: (1)

Talk you're dad into getting you headers instead of the cam. Then you can buy the cam when you have money. You'll need the headers prior to the cam anyway. A cam swap is more than just swapping the cam out. Trust me, a lot of other bolt ons need to be done to realize the full potential of any cam you choose.

FRCBobby

iTrader: (27)

Definitely get headers first.

blkZ28spt

I'll throw in my $0.02. As others have stated you really need headers and a converter before you get a cam on an A4. Other bolt-ons to go with it are a definate plus as well. I am just about ready to get a cam, have been wanting one since I got the car (over three years ago) but I listened to the people on this board and did it the "correct" way. It seems like you could get away with a "baby" cam (like a Z06) on stock exhaust and converter but even then you wouldn't realize the cams potential. The bigger you go with cams the more you need headers and a converter.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

check my sig

Cstick

Once you decide parts and get it together check out MC Racing in Overland Park, KS for a tune if you still have some christmas money left. I was just there last Friday and made 388rwhp and 373rwtq. Ask for Nick. Car is running extremely well in town, and on the highway.

Cefiro

You def. need full exhaust before you get a cam, id reccomend a TR224 114LSA if you dont want alot of lope. I just bit the bullet and ordered a 224 112LSA, we dont have emmisions and I love the sound.

KCamaro

If nothing else I will let him buy the cam and all the bits and pieces for it and just not put it in. From what I've seen I can get ahold of headers and a y-pipe much cheaper than I can get a cam (not afraid to go used) . I've already got a cut out just havnt had the chance to get it installed.

As for MC raceing where in overland park are they located?

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

If he is going to get you a cam and all the trimmings(springs and such) than why the hell not accept a gift. However, you'll WANT the headers on before the cam, otherwise you'll be chokin her.