Neumonic2002

Had new heads put on last weekend and the car is F'ed up, after the car reaches op temp it startes to run rough and sounds like rods knocking! I tore into it last night to check the top and the springs are fine, pushrods, rocker arms etc. to make things worse, I fired it back up and all was quiet until the coolant started circulating and then the knocking noise started again.on a side note, when I fired after putting it back together there was a small leak at the top of the passenger side air tube on my FLP headers and there was water coming out of the leak and enough to where there was like a steam coming out and after I snugged the bolts a little more and the car continued to warm it quit leaking the water or whatever. Also when the installer was running the head bolts in I heard a few go squish and told him I thought that was a no no and he responded that he had sucked the holes out and blew them out as well and they would be fine????? What do you guys think??

BTL FED

iTrader: (9)

What does the coolant look like, is it bubbling? What color is it?

Neumonic2002

I was unable to determine the color.I tightened the bolts and it quit, also it is hard to tell if there is white smoke coming out of the exhaust due to the tempsright now.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

What head bolts did the installer use:

1.) re-used the old ones
2.) new GM ones
3.) new ARP ones
4.) other

Neumonic2002

New GM Head bolts.

I am thinking if the heads have to come back off I will use the ARP bolts(wishing I would have spent the extra money on ARP bolts at this point)

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

There should be no coolant in the head bolt holes. This could cause catastrophic results like a cracked block (happened to a friend). You are supposed to blow out the holes with compressed air and then thread the holes with a old bolt to check for coolant. I'm not trying to sensationalize here but you could have problems. Don't run the engine and remove the heads and inspect the block and heads asap.

Neumonic2002

Thanks DrkPhx, The guy who installed the heads has done more head and cam jobs than I can count not to mention pro charged apps.He is coming over this weekend to try to figure this out.

Byter

iTrader: (1)

Neumonic. I'm installing new heads right now and I have spent more time getting the coolant out of the bolt holes than on any other single step in the process. JMX has great instructions on this on http://www.ls1howto.com. Basically, blow the coolant out with compressed air, thread paper towels into each bolt hole until dry (this is wait takes so long), then use a grinder to grind each side of an old head bolt and thread all the way into each hole. You may have to do this more than once on each hole. Good luck...

Neumonic2002

Byter,
The antifreeze level does not seem to be low so I am stumped big time, I have only driven the car about 75 miles since they were put on. I have not found any milky oil or overheated or anything but the motor makes a rod knocking sound after the coolant reaches operating temperature but sounds fine on a cold start-up..??

SpdfreakLS1

iTrader: (2)

Hey Buddy, Were in the same boat as of yesterday!!! Exactly! A friend sent this link over to me and said it sounds familiar. steam was coming out of my oil cap rea, and there was water all along the lip, as well as steam coming from the passenger area. I felt now, i didnt clean out the holes for the head bolts good enough. Im pulling the motor( i had a previous oil pump failure that i believe hurt my motor) Replacing all the bearings, chasing the threads for the head bolts, installing ARP head studs, checking every part inside and out, mainly my comp r's, and what the heck, im going to throw a fuel system on it for the 200 shot and a turbo 400 Id like to keep in touch with you, and see if you or I come up with anything more during my, and maby your motor tear down. GOOD LUCK!!!!

Neumonic2002

will do, he should be by in the next couple hours. can't wait to see what he thinks.hope I don't need to pull the motor, can't afford to do what I would like to do if it has to come out.

Neumonic2002

Mechanic came by tonight and went over the car,we took it for a drive and it started running Like s_it and finally tripped a code.turns out it is multiple misfires,he thinks the tuning is way off and we are going to start there.

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

Anytime you put a cam in the car you WILL throw a code for multiple misfires.

SpdfreakLS1

iTrader: (2)

Werd, i never asked what you did. If you did come nice heads and like a trex cam lol. But either way, if you have water and stuff coming out of places, something is wrong. And it doesnt have to do with a TUNE!!!!!!!!

......Unless a tune can fix a head gasket

Neumonic2002

plugged the car up to a tech 2 today and found out my misfire code is the # 7 cylinder, I would like to think it is something simple but I have already replaced spark plugs and the wires are Taylor 10.4 Thundervolts with maybe 1000 miles on them. Whats next? coil, valve springs? Not sure but runs pretty rough, would be nice to drive this thing and feel the power of the new heads!

Raise

iTrader: (31)

ok fine....u may need to fix your misfire problem....but u still got a problem....youre leaking

pkincy

iTrader: (1)

A reason you have to be so careful is the extreme depth of the head bolt holes. Compressed air can easily clear a head bolt hole on a SB or and LT1, but on the LS1 they are about 7 inches deep or so. And 1/2 inch of water may not come all the way out with a quick shot of air.

I hope that it is something else. You might not be budgeted for a stroker motor yet, but it is hard not to do when the engine comes apart for most any reason.

Ask me how I know.

Perry