Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

I tightened the pulley down to the motor, while it was on the picker, and the motor would not turn over with socket and wrench. I thought this was odd, esp since there were no spark plugs in yet. I took the pulley off, and it turned over fine.

Wade at ARE says that it is rare, but does happen. I had my local machine shop take off the amount that Wade reccomended. I'm going over tomorrow to put the pulley on, and I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

I would hate to think of what could have happened had I not notice this, and attempted to fire the new motor up. <img border="0" alt="[cry]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> So check it close if you are doing this mod. Or send the pulley along to your builder so they can check it out when assembling the motor.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

Did you use the Rollmaster double or the SLP double?

TreeGreenZ

Ya I was worried about this when I did mine, and I probably torqued mine down as tight as anybody. and she still turned over, so I was one of the lucky ones.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Thats the reason I didn't go double roller since I knew I was going to run a ASP pulley <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

mill .100 of it and it will be fine!

ChiTownSS

With double roller timing chains, is this a frequent trouble when trying to run ASP pullies? I need to advance my cam, so I was going to go with the SDPC double roller, but I also am going to run pullies.

JF WS6

Yup, need to machine the pulley. Not really a huge deal.

horist

hmmm... I hope i'm one of the lucky ones... pulley should be going on tomorrow... I know the Y-Body and F-Body pullies are different... I thought the F-Body didn't require machining?

Guess I'll find out (i'm using a rollermaster double chain)

ChiTownSS

Where exactly does the pulley need to be milled?

DreamWeaver

I just installed a SLP double roller timing set and had an ASP pulley already - if you look at the ASP pully from the side, you will see where it is machined back appx 1/8th" on the shaft that goes next to the oil pump. Unfortunately I turned mine over before I found this out. However due to a major screwup I had with the spacers for the oil pumo lol it was never started and didn't dammage the pump - did chew the shaft of the ballancer a lil and runed the front seal. I was very lucky - even got my pully milled back .140" for 5 bucks from a friend and a new front seal for 16 bucks. I'm not sure if milling back .100" is enough - my shims were .115" Going back .140" was just about half way to where thefront seal rides on the shaft.

I would suggest that ANYBODY who has a double roller timing set AND a ASP pulley to check for metal shavings and ya might wanna pull the pulley off to check.

Hopefully ASP is aware of this and will start to mill these back just a lil more.

Larry

iTrader: (4)

I can't imagine what you guys are referring to when you say you have to remove metal off the ASP pulley. Mine works fine with my double Rollmaster timing chain. Comparing them on the table they are virtually identical dimensionally.

http://www.mustangmods.net/data/440/MVC-035S.JPG

Constrictor 98TA

ttt...can someone please let us know what exactly is removed? I've heard many people say that you MIGHT need to get it cut, but no one has ever posted any pictures or explained what needs to be milled. <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

DreamWeaver

Like I said I installed mine and was turning the motor over to pump up the pressure ( had fuses pulled so it wouldn't start). I realized I'd done a dumba$$ stunt with my shims - anyways i had to tear it all back apart. This is when I found the dammage. If I had started and ran it who knows what might have happened. A new bolt is like 3.50 from the dealer and take a couple of hours to pull the pully and check it is all i'm saying. 3.50 + appx 1-2 hours for peace of mind is a small price to pay.

I'll post a pic in a lil bit pointing to the spot but look at a pully. The shaft that goes into the front cover and butts up to the pump is the area. Looking from the side you will see this:

-----------------------|<_dammage area
--------------------------
--------------------------
--------------------------
--------------------------
--------------------------
-----------------------|<Dammage occures at this collar) and needs to be machined back in appx .140" id you have ran the pully you will see the marks from the front seal DO NOT MACHINE past or into those marks.

Hopefully this will help

<small>[ April 17, 2003, 08:56 PM: Message edited by: Renegade ]</small>

Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

Some guys are bound to get lucky, and not have any problems like this. But It would be wise to check this out, as opposed to just throwing it on there and hoping for the best.

I put some picks in my webshots in the sig. Should be there in the next 30 min.

I believe it was .030 off the OD in the rear, and then .150 back off the lip from there. I didn't think to take any pics before I took it there, sorry.

I'm not sure what brand of double roller that ARE uses. Wade did say that most of the pulleys fit, with no problem, but there are a few strays that dont quite fit. It was no big deal to have it milled off. Hope the pics clear it up. The painted intake is Barry's work. Good job on that Barry <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

LARRY01Z28

iTrader: (28)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Renegade:
<strong> Like I said I installed mine and was turning the motor over to pump up the pressure ( had fuses pulled so it wouldn't start). I realized I'd done a dumba$$ stunt with my shims - anyways i had to tear it all back apart. This is when I found the dammage. If I had started and ran it who knows what might have happened. A new bolt is like 3.50 from the dealer and take a couple of hours to pull the pully and check it is all i'm saying. 3.50 + appx 1-2 hours for peace of mind is a small price to pay.

I'll post a pic in a lil bit pointing to the spot but look at a pully. The shaft that goes into the front cover and butts up to the pump is the area. Looking from the side you will see this: </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">so we need to mill back the damage area? and can i just take it to a mchine shop to do this?

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

I keep hearing the same thing in that the problems seem to pop up when it is a SLP double. Is there anybody using a Rollmaster double that had to mill?

robertbartsch

do you have to mill the pulley with a SDPC double roller or just the SLP unit?


....I have a SLP oil pump. Does it need to be shimmed with the SDPC doubel roller?

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by robertbartsch:
<strong> do you have to mill the pulley with a SDPC double roller or just the SLP unit?


....I have a SLP oil pump. Does it need to be shimmed with the SDPC doubel roller? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The SDPC Rollmaster setup also has to be shimmed but I am thinking maybe the shims are thinner?

MYBLKSS

iTrader: (1)

I intstalled SPDC Rollmaster double along with the ASP Pulley when I installed my cam. I DID NOT MACHINE the pulley at all. I just torqued it down and it was fine. I have about 5000 miles on the car since the install. I stressed about this same thing before my cam install I could not get a straight answer from anyone. In my case I did not Machine my ASP pulley with SPDC rollmaster timing chain and it works fine. Hope I helpped

DreamWeaver

Yes any machine shop should be able to mill it back. If you look at the pics Black Sunshine posted on his you see the blackend ring which is where the front seal rides on the shaft. I was real lucky with mine and a friend has a michine shop so he charged me 5 bucks to mill it back. Took him about 5 min to do it. I doubt another machine shop would charge that but shouldn't rob ya to do it - just takes a lathe and mill it back a lil - mine was milled .140"

BTW my front seal was trashed too 16.50 for a new one from the dealer. Figure I got off cheap considering the possibilities.