LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

does it depend any on which spring u run, what gear, stall u have? does any put more wear on the springs daily driving?

lets say 3000-3500 stall with 3.73 gear and a n2o shot on it from time to time..

f13 from futral

233/233 tq'er cam

233/239 tsp

and just for comparision, tr224's cam

now if i stay under .600 lift, which spring is best?.600+ill do prolly the patriot or prc dual spring kit! NOW, on any of those cams are they going to need to be swapped around the same time, or will a patriot dual hold up longer then say a 918 on a 233/233 cam or will it not even really matter? sorry just wondering, tried to search but coudln't find anything comparing if there was a difference in brand really or type. any difference in ease of install b/t a single or dual or brand of dual springs?

remember im not asking which spring is best for the the tq'er or tr224 cam, i know there under .600 lift, and i know with the tq'er it would be better to run duals for safety! but im asking which type, or brand of spring last longer and besides the cam itself does anything else like gearing ect, have an affect on lifetime. if ur runnign a 3.23 on the highway ur rpms might be low and ive heard of chatter or w/e... would things like this shorten the life or period of time before its required u change them again???

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

basically id like to see 15,000-20,000 miles... without so much as a hiccup if i install them right, id like to try and get in the low to mid 11's n/a with one of those top 3 cams.. i just want to get the spring that is going to give me the most miles..

this may not be possible, but id like to get as much as i can is all.

PREDATOR-Z

Look it depends on the lobe and lift of the cams.
Rule of thumb is that you should check your springs every 10.000 miles rgardless of which ones they are.
That does not mean you'll change them, but it is like preventative maintenance.
PP "gold" duals, PRC, Comp 921 etc... should be used with .580 lifts or higher, but again depending on the lobe used.
I'm using 918's on XE-R .581 (wanted light valvetrain) and they are doing well so far after 7.5K miles.

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

This is an interesting topic. I would think with a higher stall it would make sence that the springs would get more wear and tear. It seems like if your going to much higher rpms just to get around town, that this would have to make a difference. Anybody else have any good info on this? I would like to know how many miles I could expect out of some good dual springs. I think my only choice is dual springs with my F14 cam, but I'm interested in how long they should last with my 3800 vig. Some more info on this would be helpful.
TIA
Lou

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

Your talking about the valvesprings that are under the valve covers!?!? I thought they last a LONG time like 200,000 miles. Am I wrong!?!?!?

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

Stock springs with stock cam can last a very long time. Aftermarket springs have to be checked regularly, depending on the size of your cam.

5POINT7

What do you check? What are you supposed to look for? How does a bad spring differ from a good spring?

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

after a good thrashing over time, they will begin to loose seat pressure. this means they will yank the valves closed slower and you will have an allen wrench pushrod or two like i pulled out the other day.

there are tools that you put the springs in that squeeze them down and test the pressures. i'm not sure if you can do this inside the car or not, but it is what is done.

lilbuddy1587

iTrader: (1)

with springs being "bad" you lose hp, rpms, as stated above "pushrods turning into allen wrenchs" and valve float which falls into the catagory of losing rpms/hp

DavidNJ

From Moroso:


Digital from Intercomp:

Michael Ozorowsky

iTrader: (1)

WTF!?!!? I've NEVER read about this before. How often should this be done? That is a real PITA

Krab

iTrader: (28)

Like TheBlur said, if you have the stock cam and stock springs, then you don't have to really worry about it. They will last you a very long time as long as you don't put them through hell (rev your car to 5K before letting it completely warm up, etc.). You have to worry about your spring pressure/life once you swap cams to one with a higher lift, aggressive ramp rates, and larger lobes. So, if you're running your stock valve train and cam, don't worry about it. Going by the numbers in your sig, it looks like you are.

DavidNJ

I would imagine stock springs have lost some of their strength by 40-60k miles. And, somechime in with current street car experience, valve seats are probably worn in that range. With really aggressive setups (cam, compression, revs, and lightweight) pistons, piston pins, and valves are also regular replacement items. And the bearings in roller lifters and rockers.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Those bigger Cams will require for you to test them every 10k miles or so.Mostly because you have a stalled car and you will be straining them more unless you fully warm up the oil before driving it every time

JS

iTrader: (4)

Thats why I always warm the car up before driving away..
I agree though at 10K I'd checkem...

God Forgives I Dont

Dang! You know this is one of the drawbacks to having a CAM'd car. I originally paid a guy down the road to install my cam and springs, but I dont' what to pay someone to do it every 10-15K so I guess I need to just give it a try in another 5k miles. I'm going to replace them if I have to take them out anyway, and put in some Dual springs. I'm currently using Comp 918s and my cam is right up to the rating so I would feel better with more insurance. Still Sucks though!

gr8one99SS

iTrader: (4)

do you have to remove the heads to change the springs?sorry but im a newbie to cams, etc,

Jabroni

No. You can swap them while on the car. A little compressed air in the cylinder through the spark plug threads will hold the valves. There's another way to do it using a method that changes each cylinder when it's at TDC one at a time but I'm not that good!

DavidNJ

You get another kit. You put it at TDC, back off the rockers, put it at BDC, replace the spark plug with a hose to the compressor (the kit comes with the hose for the spark plug hole), and use an on-car compressor to compress the spring, tap it to loosen the keepers, remove the keepers and retainer (carefully, so as not to drop the keepers in the engine!), remove the springs, put in new springs, replace the keepers and retainers, go back to TDC and replace the rockers.

When you're done you re-lash the valves.

High end drag racers have this down to an art. It takes me an afternoon.

David

LSonederfull

I am running 918 springs with .585" lift on the basic equivalent to CompXE lobe for 20K plus miles, 150 passes(most to 7k) shifts, no problems. I think 90% of the people on here need to really read up on "Barrel wound, beehive single spring" benefits, and "Let Go" of the dual spring insurance benefit method of thinking. The best "insurance" for longevity and performance is to educate your selves on why 918 spring is better in everyway than all these heavier dual setups .Comps spring has enough seat and open pressure to lose some tension with mileage to still perform safely. Read David Vizards article on the springs benefits, dont just take my word for it.