224/228 114 cam
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224/228 114 cam
I have the TEA 1.5 heads and everyone knows they flow pretty darn well on the exhaust side. I have the 224/224 .563 114 cam now. But due to some lifter issues my cam might be chewed up. So im just getting a lil info just incase here. I like small cams mainly cause of the tuning and daily driving so thats why i want to keep the same size cam roughly.
But would a split reverse benefit my heads more than the 224/224? I see some sell a 224/227 and there is a 224/228 out there also.
i just wanted to know if these would be better than the one I have now IFFFF i need to replace it? This is a NA setup also..
made 399.9 with the heads and 224 if that matters also. But Im just looking for a similar cam that I can put in the car without really having to tweak and edit on dyno again lol.
If those wouldnt work, i may just get the 225/225 113 cam
thanks
But would a split reverse benefit my heads more than the 224/224? I see some sell a 224/227 and there is a 224/228 out there also.
i just wanted to know if these would be better than the one I have now IFFFF i need to replace it? This is a NA setup also..
made 399.9 with the heads and 224 if that matters also. But Im just looking for a similar cam that I can put in the car without really having to tweak and edit on dyno again lol.
If those wouldnt work, i may just get the 225/225 113 cam
thanks
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The 224/228 114 will work great. Not to long ago we installed that cam in a full bolt on 02 T/A and made 403HP and that was cam only. I would say you would gain anywhere from 10-20 HP fom swapping out the cams. This cam is definently one of the more popular cams we install at Rev Xtreme.
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how about tuning? I take the car really wouldnt act much different at idle or driving as it did with the 224/224?
i know its not huge and etc.. i'd like to slap a monstor cam in, but that just doesnt suit my needs
i gotta take the motor apart anyway to see where my ticking coming from, so i may consdier dropping this in even if the 224 is ok
btw, where is the peak power and etc at on this cam? with the heads mine had a nice power curve in the 5800-6300rpm range(which was why the car shifted at 6500)
i know its not huge and etc.. i'd like to slap a monstor cam in, but that just doesnt suit my needs
i gotta take the motor apart anyway to see where my ticking coming from, so i may consdier dropping this in even if the 224 is ok
btw, where is the peak power and etc at on this cam? with the heads mine had a nice power curve in the 5800-6300rpm range(which was why the car shifted at 6500)
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It will idle great with a good tune. You might notice a little difference in idle but nothing dramatic.The power will probably just shift a couple hundred RPM's higher as will be where you shift.
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Is the 224/224 you have now a TR, if it is it's
lobes are pretty aggressive, between a XE and XER comp, unless these other cams you are looking at have an even more aggressive XER lobe then you gains will be minimal. This is assuming lift stays around where it is now. The duration increases you are looking at are too close to what you have to make a big difference.
lobes are pretty aggressive, between a XE and XER comp, unless these other cams you are looking at have an even more aggressive XER lobe then you gains will be minimal. This is assuming lift stays around where it is now. The duration increases you are looking at are too close to what you have to make a big difference.
#7
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Yeap, agreed, with a good tune to optimise spark and fuel at all rpms, you should see ~15 rwhp, perhaps a little more. Also the 224/228 is an XE-R cam
I noticed you didn't have an LS6 intake?
I noticed you didn't have an LS6 intake?
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 01-10-2005 at 08:47 AM.
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vette, i dunno for sure. I have a ticking that comes and goes. I posted that info in the post with the lifter freezing and etc in here. Seems one of my lifters mighta just bit the bullet, or it came to far outta the plastic sleeve in there. Ill find out in about 2 weeks. Im just getting info incase I need a new cam or other parts
I wasnt expecxting more than 6-8hp with that swap, so 10-15 would be a nice little gain if i needed to replace
oh and I have mostly all the full bolt ons, ls6 intake and etc.. only things I dont have are the budget breakers like the EWP and etc:-P
I wasnt expecxting more than 6-8hp with that swap, so 10-15 would be a nice little gain if i needed to replace
oh and I have mostly all the full bolt ons, ls6 intake and etc.. only things I dont have are the budget breakers like the EWP and etc:-P
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- Exhaust ----Intake
.100----51.7----70.2
.200----111.2---138.6
.300----167.6---201.1
.400----216.3---250.9
.500----248.0---282.5
.550----258.5---294.5
.600----265.6---302.2
those are the #'s I got with my heads a while back if they help any with info
.100----51.7----70.2
.200----111.2---138.6
.300----167.6---201.1
.400----216.3---250.9
.500----248.0---282.5
.550----258.5---294.5
.600----265.6---302.2
those are the #'s I got with my heads a while back if they help any with info
#11
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- Exhaust ----Intake
.100----51.7----70.2
.200----111.2---138.6
.300----167.6---201.1
.400----216.3---250.9
.500----248.0---282.5
.550----258.5---294.5
.600----265.6---302.2
Dude that is some big exhaust flow
Seing that i take is back, you'd benefit more from a reverse split like a TR 230/224 on a 108 icl
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FWIW I changed from a Comp 216/220 .525/.532 114 lsa to a TR 224/224 .563/.563 112 lsa and installed a March underdrive pulley. I thought I'd get at least 20 maybe 25 hp, how about 13. That was with LS1 edit dyno tuning on top of it. Think I'm a happy camper?
#13
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So, it just means that the 216/220 was better suited to your head flow or that the TR224 wasn't.
I've made 400+ with Comp 216/220 on my EX 99 Z with stage 1 heads (portmatched), M6
I've made 400+ with Comp 216/220 on my EX 99 Z with stage 1 heads (portmatched), M6
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
- Exhaust ----Intake
.100----51.7----70.2
.200----111.2---138.6
.300----167.6---201.1
.400----216.3---250.9
.500----248.0---282.5
.550----258.5---294.5
.600----265.6---302.2
Dude that is some big exhaust flow
Seing that i take is back, you'd benefit more from a reverse split like a TR 230/224 on a 108 icl
TEA uses a pipe on their exhaust, but still their exhaust flows pretty well
whats the major differences in the reverse split and the split reverse cams? Just wondering how ya'll are matching cam to heads these days
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I'm over 400 rwhp but am peaking at about 5,700 rpm's, which is too low. I'm in the middle of a 9" swap now, but when that's done I'll deal with the lost hp. I think the timing needs to be retarded like 2* to bring the power band up.
#16
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Originally Posted by 98TAauto
TEA uses a pipe on their exhaust, but still their exhaust flows pretty well
whats the major differences in the reverse split and the split reverse cams? Just wondering how ya'll are matching cam to heads these days
whats the major differences in the reverse split and the split reverse cams? Just wondering how ya'll are matching cam to heads these days
Well in Lehman terms, a reverse split will keep the intake charge open longer =>bigger charge in => more gases need out.
With the numbers above, the intake flow#'s are good but not outstanding at peak and the exhaust are pretty big. So in theory by putting an even bigger charge in, it has no problem exiting due to big exhaust flow.
Now with the traditional split it is the opposite, fits heads that are tinier on the exhaust side.
I found that out to be true when I thought of getting a set of AFR's for my Stealth II 224/220, but then read dyno posts on someone that did that with average results and then T.Mamo confirmed this.(on average AFR's 205 flow 300 intake and 230 exhaust and like a 224/228)