zupmanZ28

iTrader: (2)

A little background on the setup, it's a 98z with TEA stg 1.5 heads (5.3), Comp pushrods, stock lifters, 987 springs, ls6 intake, ported TB, ls6 MAF, Mac midlengths, ORY. Trans is a stock 4l60e with a Yank Pt4000. Car weighs 3500 pounds with me in it, and has run a best of 11.2@121 and consistant 11.3-11.4's with the Tr224 cam (224/224 .563, 114lsa). 60's are in the 1.50-1.55 range

I'm looking for that extra edge to get me down into the 10's consistantly. Its a full interior car and i like it that way. I've already taken out all the weight i care to, so thats not an option for me. I'm wondering if swapping over to the FM-13 cam on a 114lsa will get me there. i've been reading up on it a little bit and i can't seem to find a single bad comment about it. Also it seems to fit my criteria for street manners. (i drive this car ALOT, i dont' want anything with an obnoxious idle, or something thats gonna waste valvesprings every other month). Way i figure it i'd need to find another 30hp or so to see 10's on fairly consistant basis. I'll also be swapping from 3.23's to 3.42's, and going from a BFG to a MT drag radial.

Thoughts, comments? Am i retarded for thinking this will work? Shortblock is stock 346 btw...

Eric

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

get the f13, swap to 3.90's or 4.10s, and get a sticky tire and you'll prolly see tens. gettin the better gears will help more than you think, and will make the cam easier to drive(altho that cam is pretty easy to drive to begin with).

zupmanZ28

iTrader: (2)

i know i could benefit from more gear, but i drive this thing about 80 miles down the highway 3-4 times a week. I like my gas mileage with the 3.23's. But i've had 3.42 geared vehicles before and they weren't too bad on the highway. With my old car (thirdgen) i picked up 4 tenths going from the 3.23's to the 3.42s. Albeit it was a 14.5 to 14.1, but in my case it should still help out a tenth or two...

Eric

matts22

iTrader: (2)

I've heard that 3.73's are the way to go for autos. It seriously won't affect mileage that much. Maybe a couple mpg at most. Mine fluctuates more than that, so IMO its not a big deal. If you want to go 10's, more gear is one of the easiest additions.

zupmanZ28

iTrader: (2)

think 10's are possible with 3.73's and my current tr224 cam?

Eric

zupmanZ28

iTrader: (2)

hmmm. I just had a thought. my old 86 camaro has a moser 9" sitting in it with 3.89's and a locker. As long as the ls1 brakes will bolt up to it i'll be in good shape. I'll have to delete the ABS, but i can deal with that. Then i can still go with the FM13 cam....that is, assuming it'll be worth it.

Anybody have any thoughts as to the power gains going from the tr224 to the fm13? I saw a dyno graph comparing the two, and the fm13 came out about 15hp on top, but that was a cam only car, not sure if the heads will make a difference or not. I'm gonna want to be seeing at least a 25-30 hp gain for it be worth it to me...

Eric

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

i'd say atleast 15-20hp with the higher lift to benefit from also since you cam like mine only has the XE lobes
I got a F something coming to replace my 224 lol :-P

something else.. maybe replace the lifters while you are in there. Thats why my heads are coming off so im going a tad bigger since i have to replace lifters now also.

i only had 3.23's with the 224.. now its 3.42's in there and I really dont want any bigger in my lil 10bolt

zupmanZ28

iTrader: (2)

Yeah i'm pretty much sharing your thoughts on that one. On the one hand, i like my 3.23's for there road manners, but both the 3.23 rear i have in there now, and the 3.42 rear i have to go in, have bad lsd's. So i'm gonna have to spend some money on an lsd. I'm beginning to think the 9" thats in good condition, that is FREE is the best option, even though it's gonna hurt it's highway manners.

I was planning on putting new lifters in, mine tick a lot when they sit for a few days at a time, just putting a new set of stockers in though...

thoughts on the tr224-->FM13?

Eric

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

if my car was gonna see more track time than street this year, then ill say i was gonna get the F13

so go for it call FMS though.. talk to alan or kip. Kip's new form what ive heard, but he will wask what you wanna do with the car, your complete setup now.. and im sure he's gonna say the F13 though.

any idea how much your TEA heads were milled also?? anything over 15thousandths should be checked for clearnace with that cam and the 1.5 5.3 liter heads if thats what you have according to TEA

as for rears... im not a fan of the lockers, but if you want a 85% track beast then go for it.. if not, i'd just get a 12bolt or used 9inch that someone has for sale. Its usually some over on EFA forsale though

zupmanZ28

iTrader: (2)

thats a good question on the milling, i'll have to find out.

Eric

2001 Pewter WS6

iTrader: (43)

I just got a FM13 and I emailed Allen because my heads are 241's milled .030 with 2.02/1.57 valves and he said not a problem. I am swapping from a Tr224 as well. I won;t know how it runs until Spring though.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

To be honest, it sounds like the TEA and TR224 combination is working well for you. How much does the car weigh? I also think your gonna need more than 30 RWHP to run a consistant 10.xx as well, coming from 11.3-11.4. It seems like it get's harder to drop even a tenth when you start reaching that territory. Gears will help, short belt, EWP, maybe FAST intake/TB, etc.

The FM13 may get you the 15-20 as well, just don't think it will get you in the 10's by itself and it could effect your powerband differently than what your TR224/TEA is giving you now, like 60' times, it's just hard to say, but might be worth trying...

Dan

zupmanZ28

iTrader: (2)

on a 1.50 60' it'll go 11.2x pretty consistantly. I can pull 1.55's now with the bfg's and 3.23's, and it runs consistant 11.4x's. With the new tires, and better differential, i'm thinking 1.50's should be the norm. That said i'm still left with another .2 tenths before i'm into the 10's. A good 30hp increase should get me there with good air. I guess i'm looking more for 11.0x's with the occasional 10sec timeslip. I'm thinking 30hp will get me there. Good thinking on the shortbelt, though the AC and smog pump is already gone. Not sure whats left to bypass.

Eric

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

You can eliminate the power steering pump by using a shortbelt, it does help, especially in the first 60'.

Your getting awesome 60' times with 3.23 gears. Your combo is really working well I think.

Even though you might gain more peak power with the FM13, what I was wondering is will you give up anything under the curve to the TR224. If so, this could have effects on your current times. Like you could give up some time in your 60' and gain more MPH through the traps and still have the same ET as you already have if you know what I mean. You will need to compliment the FM13 with the right gears and such to take full advantage of your setup. For example: I went from a TR230 to a Trex, I gained on the top end but lost on the bottom end and just got the same ET with a 3 MPH better trap and a .1 worse 60'. Now with better gears (I to had 3.23 gears) to compliment the Trex, and the right stall with the right shift extensions, I could of dropped my ET by another .3-.4 tenths in ET IMO.

What I'm saying is adding a different cam and getting 30 RWHP while knocking off .3 on your ET is hopeful at best. Not trying to be negative at all, anything is possible, just trying to be realistic is all..

Dan

zupmanZ28

iTrader: (2)

i see what your saying, it's not all cut and dry- that is if i add this, get another 30 hp, that doesn't mean it'll cut ET by .3. Thats understandable.

As for the area under curve, thats the big thing i'm worried about- to a point. I've noticed on the comparison dyno graphs that the tr224 is actually making more power, all the way up to like 4500rpm. I've not decided if thats a bad thing or not though, heres why: when i launch i stall up to about 3500rpm on the footbrake, and once out of first gear, it never falls below 5300rpm (ATAP verified). So that only leaves about 1000rpm where the fm-13 is lacking, from then on, it should be all gain. That converter i have is reeeaaalllly loose. it acts more like a 4600 stall than a 4000, and in all reality it may be, i bought it used. Add to the fact that i've pretty much decided on putting the 9" i have in with 3.89 gears, and any loss should be minute. Correct?

maybe i'll just put the 9" in with the new MT drag radials and see where that gets me. If i'm not satisfied i'll start looking to another cam. One way or another, 10's are gonna happen this year

Eric

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

eric, this is when you stall comes into play with bigger cams. You may loose a tad on your 60 since you still have those 500-1000rpms that mgiht be a whopping 3-4hp difference in between cams, but then you probably see 5500-6500 rpms the rest of the way down the track.

On the street the car might feel a tad sluggish under light throttle im sure. I doubt you feel any difference when you go WOT though but when you start getting over 4800rpms im sure the cars gonna make more power.

look at it this way, if you loose a tad bottom end, then its just easier on your 10bolt.. but makes up and then some on midrange and top end lol

texasuperman

iTrader: (1)

try putting on 1.8 rocker arms and some drag radials, it will probably be cheaper and might do the trick