5LiterBeater

I am looking at either supercharging the car or heads and a cam. This is what I am looking for. I don't care about running 10's, or saving 2lbs.. What I am trying to do is get some good bottom end power to get a better hole shot "60 ft time", and keep it streetable. Of course numbers are good and impressive HP and TQ wise but this is my only car. Can anyone recommend a cam and heads that will give me the most performance yet still keep the car comfortably streetable? Or would supercharging be a better choice?? Help this newbie is seriously lost. My ultimate goal is 370-400 rwhp and the same in torque (anywhere in that range is fine by me). Also will I have to move to a 12 bolt rear if I get up to there.

Also slightly off forum but I want to replace my stock converter with one that will allow me to get a better hole shot while keeping below 2000rpm off the line??? (obvioulsy a mild converter)

99 T/A WS6 A4
Mods currently: LS1 motorsports air lid, 85mm SLP maf, LS6 intake manifold, QTP LT headers, QTP ORY with dual cutouts, Corsa catback, 8.5mm plug wires, NGK TR55 plugs, ZO6 18x9.5 wheels with BFG 265/35's, about to get a full tune on friday (hopefully we find some more hidden hp there).

331rwhp/338lbft tq (cutouts closed).
333rwhp/345lbft tq (cutouts open).

CATCH ME

iTrader: (1)

i like the set up that i have and it makes good numbers....might be what you are looking for. check out my signature...but if i was gonna do it all over again i would get AFR 205's and the TR228 cam.

5LiterBeater

Ok another newbie question. I know the AFR205's are heads and the TR228 is a cam, but I want something that won't lope like a dragster with the cam. Also what is the TR228 specs?? I think I need a LSA of 114 for an automatic that is streetable right?? With the new heads would you recommend going with roller rockers, dual titanium springs and sodium filled valve stems, or just regular springs and valves?????? Thanks again for the help everyone.


Also Catchme, do you have a stock rearend with that kind of power??? And if so how hard do you launch off the line? I really don't want to break my rear if I can help it once I get all this stuff taken care of.

CATCH ME

iTrader: (1)

well my cam is a 112 LSA but if u want a more stealth cam you could do a 224/224 at 114 LSA which is what my friend was running and it was relatively stealth cam(still noticible). i think that would be able to get you around 400 rwhp...def. get roller rockers and titanium springs, i dont know too much about the valves, but i hear good things about the AFR titanium valves. as of now i am running a stock rear but have not taken it to the strip yet(scared im gonna blow it up) so i am waiting until i have the cash to get a moser 12 bolt before i do any hard launches, but now so long as ASR is off i have no problems. with this set up the car hauls *** though!!

also do you have gears yet??

5LiterBeater

No I don't have any gears yet and my A4 is running 2.73's. Pretty tall gears. I was going to go with 3.23 still tall, but it will keep the rpm's down at highway cruising speed. My car is stupid loud already and I don't want it any louder. I may sell my dual cutout y pipe in favor of another 3" catted Y pipe just to muffle the sound some and get rid of the fuel smell (of course my tuning on friday will result in leaning it out some and getting rid of some of the smell.

Also I am not just looking for peak hp, I am looking for a total gain under the curve overall. That will play into what kind of cam I get too. I just feel that I need more bottom end power with the gearing I have set up and the fact that I don't plan on running the engine in the 6200rpm range either.

Best time 13.3@106 on the BFG KDW's low profile.

5LiterBeater

Anyone?? I can use all the advice you all have to offer.

Oh yeah and TTT

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

IMO,if you don't want to go too radical with your setup,go with a TR224- 114LSA,patriot gold dual springs with tit retainers and hardened pushrods and a 3000 stall TQ with the 3.23 gears.that should get you around 350-370rwhp,you'll lose a little HP with a higher stall TQ unlocked.that combo should be good for low 12's,maybe 11.90's on a really good day with street slicks.i wouldn't worry about heads unless your looking to get maximum HP.with a good tune,you'll get some lope at idle,but not bad.i have the TR220-114lsa,(small lope,nothing radical)3.73 gears and a Midwest 3000 stall TQ,very streetable combo .(i wish i had went with the TR224,by the way)just my .02.

5POINT7

If you want similar hp and tq numbers go FI. H/C combos on stock cubes seem to always have lagging tq numbers (like 25-30 below hp).

FI = tq, plain and simple.

Bigger cubes with H/C wil give you what you want also.

QUESTION:
What's your budget?

5LiterBeater

Thanks for all the help. I think if I decide to H/C I would get the AFR 205's with the 224 -114LSA and the converter like 66 was talking about. Now if I wanted to go FI what SC do you think I should get?? I really like magnacharger, but they won't develop one for the fbody due to the cowling and the engine being shoved so far back. I really do like the twin screw design over the centrifugal design because it posts better low end numbers.

And before anyone else says it, I will say it myself

Any other inputs on a H/C package still in the spirit of what I am looking for (see the first post of this thread) would be greatly appreciated. I don't want a snotty, growling lope to the car either, something pretty stealthy with good low end power.

Thanks for humoring a guy new to internals....

5LiterBeater

Oh and also, budget is only dependent on what system I get. I won't get the cheapy stuff, but I am not going to blow money that doesn't have to be spent. I am more interested in quality of parts and the reputation of the company over a few hundred bucks.

texasuperman

iTrader: (1)

I would say go with a cam and heads with other bolt on and you will get to your hp goals fine it will probably be cheaper to. your stock rearend will hold that hp also

NviouSS

iTrader: (8)

from the mods you have now and the numbers you have with them i would suggest getting a good cam. and since you said you want something stealthy, i'd suggest looking into the lingenfelter GT2-3 cam. it's an excellent sleeper cam that will get you into your hp range. however, it doesn't start to shine until it gets into the upper rpm range. i am running this cam and recently dynoed 351/350 with only a lid. my previous numbers were 316/343.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

100 shot of nitrous nad be done.. best way to keep it perfectly streetable as it sets! heads and cam can be very streetable, but not quite like stock.. if ur looking for stock driving manners put some n2o on it.... also cheaper for the kit, and u only need to fill up the bottle when u want too.

5LiterBeater

Thanks for all the inputs, but can anyone recommend a cam with good low end power? I really don't feel like replacing everything inside the engine if I do a H/C package (ie I don't feel like revving it over 6000). I do like the AFR205's, but what cam? I think I am liking the 224/224 114 LSA, but any info would be great. Also now after my tune (just got it done friday), my new numbers are 354rwhp and 360rwtq. So what do you think a H/C package would get me or even a SC??