half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys i am looking at 2 cars right now that i am interested in purchasing, and need a little help. one is a 2000 z28 nbm, and the other is a 99 red SS. both are 6spds.

The red SS is everything i told myself i wanted when i started looking, Red, SS, 6spd, leather. however the "leather: interior is white, that kinda surprises me...however it has 70k miles on it. that honestly scares me a little, i dont want to buy a car that is going to be a problem. will these have problems areound this point? transmission, engine, clutch(i am sure, and dont mind too much about this) but also little things, are there and little things that i should look for?)

the 99SS is about $1000 cheaper than the 2000Z28 which has 38000 miles.

Thanks for the input,
Louie Panayi

jrp

iTrader: (16)

how extensive are you looking to mod it? if alot get the 99. if you plan for basic **** i'd save up a bit more money and look for an 01.

dazman

i had the same problem in 2001 when i bought my z28... it was a 2000 and i was looking at a 99 ss as well and it was 1000 dollars cheaper also!... the SS had 55000 miles on it and the 00 had 23000. i went for the Z and was never happier. the clutch sucked, but other then that it ran strong. the clutches in these cars SUCK. and for about 850$ you can get a strong clutch with upgraded hydrolics. i have since sold the camaro for a transam ws6, but then sold THAT for a C5. the camaro was sold to my best friend and is still running strong with 105,000 miles with 40,000 being on the cam/heads swap.

mike

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Mileage means surprising little to these engines. Gen 3 truck motors routinely see 200K+ with little or no issues. Plenty of people here didnt even start modding till they were in the 6 digits. There are forced induction cars deep into the 6 digits too. Maintenence is key.

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

thanks for all of the input, i am looking into extensive modification once i sell the stang, until then however i am only going to little ****. that doesn't mean that in 6 months it wont have heads cam though...lol

On the flip side the 99 SS i just got off of the phone with the dealership and someone blew the engine in that car...so i told them that if they can still finance me for VERY cheap i would be interested however i will unlikely not want the hassle.
I also just got an email fromt he dealership with the 2000 Z28 and was approved for financing(a major concern) i am only 19 and full time college student. So that is good news looks like i will be going with the Z.

Thanks for all of the help, i will try to post back when i know what is going on. although i wont be asking very many mod questions...i have been doing my research for about 3-4 months while trying to get this all together.

Thank again
Louie

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Hmmm... you know, forged short blocks are getting awfully cheap nowadays!

Nsty98LS1

iTrader: (11)

bought my 98 Z last january with 63000 on it and it was stock except a k&n filter. has 76000 on it now and no real problems(knock on wood).

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

lol yeah i know....unfortunately i would have to sell my car first and then use that money...etc it would be better in the end, but a pain in the short term.

I also just got news that the interest rate on my loan was acceptable, not great but what can i expect to get since i am just a "young punk". I wish that they would take a little maturity into account but i cant blame them.

now onto another question to keep this technical and not just social. what types of things do you guys think that i should check out once i go there and take a look. I am also looking for the most common types of fluids used in the tranny and rear end(i want this car to stay in good shape for me for about 3 years until i get out of school...) i want synthetic if it suggested and in the tranny and the rear end money is of almost no object if it is better. the engine will always get mobil one(as all of my cars have) and a suggested filter, in my opinion a filter is a filter however i will take suggestions.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Its tough to say.... really a stealership wont be able to acurately tell you about the cars maintenence history.

You probably want to use non-synth tranny fluid due to the paper backed synchros. If you run mobile, you might try 0w40 rather than the suggested 5w30. Its a superior oil. The best oil going for the LS1 right now is german made castrol 0w30. Thats what I use. Synthetic rear end fluid is endlessly debated. I personally use mobil1 rear end gear lube with a half bottle of LSD additive.

half-n-half

iTrader: (7)

what about synchromesh in the t56, is that a big no no?
i used it in the t56 in my stang and it worked ok,i heardmixed reviewsso i changed to a dexron three auto tranny fluid.

i am going to go and look into what everyone uses in their cars so i can get a good grasp on what to purchase before i ick it up. i am also looking into buying pacesetter LTs and TSP true duals. exhaust is one of those things that i ahve to have.


Thanks everyone for the help.

Louie Panayi

ohh yeah i should finally have an ls1 after months of searching by monday at the latest...

jrp

iTrader: (16)

check for leaky pinion seals, oil consumption (best you could probably do on the spot is look at the TB blades, check the oil pressure (both cold and warm), do a compression and leakdown test if possible.

check any and everything you can. i didnt and ended up paying the price for it. but i got almost a brand new car to show for it

Camaro99SS

iTrader: (4)

70k is nothing on an LS1. I bought mine with 67k in August and have 77k on it now. The main thing I'd look at is piston slap. Some have it, and others don't. Mine does and sounds like it has a spun bearing when it's cold, but it goes away in 3 or 4minutes of driving. However, it burns maybe 1/2 quart which is less than what alot of them burn. Most LS1's I've run into don't seem to have it, but I have all of the maintenance receipts on mine, and the guy I bought it from wasn't into the hot rodding aspect.

It was hard enough to find a 6spd LS1 that wasn't ragged on in my price range. It isn't like shopping for Mustangs where most GT's have manuals. This is partly the reason I ended up getting an LS1 over an LT1. M6 LT1's with good mileage and in good shape are extremely hard to come by unless its for a premium price, and the 95 T/A I almost bought with 48k and stock, I couldn't talk the dealership in Florida below 9300.

Jason

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

if ur going to do engine mods get the car cheaper so u can spend more adn freshen up the motor regardless of miles.. also it really helps to know the previous owners.. 70k grandpa miles are better tehn 38k with a 16 yo kid behind the wheel.