obZidian

iTrader: (2)

I have a thread about engine break-in methods and someoe threw this at me....

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

So, wat do ya'll think? Is it worth a try? HAs anyone tried this or somethin simialar? I would lke to hear from both ends of the spectrum........im dropping the motor within the week, for real this time, and im considering my options....

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I have always broken in my race bikes by this method. Break them fast and they will be fast. My cars the same way.

Bill

'02 SLP#686

iTrader: (1)

I have always broken engines in however they were intended to use. I have raced snowmobiles for 5 years and the ones that were broken in hard, went the fastest (used same chassis each time). I will hopefully be breaking in a forged LS6 this summer

hc_performance

iTrader: (4)

I found some guys in a zx-10r forum talking about the 2004 zx10r's. 4 zx-10's were broken in the mototune way and the 3 were done by the book (wich is the way I broke my zx-10r in). They dynoed all 7 bikes with around the same miles on the (3500) and the 3 that were done by the book averaged about 5 rwhp more. Could be a coincidence. Or it may not. For me though I am going to break it in the way the company that builds the motors recomends. Just my .02

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

seems like a logical arguement.....

would the same go for a v-8 motor?

prostock_bigblock

iTrader: (11)

The combination of acceleration and deceleration is just the ticket for sealing the rings."wrong very wrong
the rings(shambar) didnot seat yet you may wreck them.
What!??!?!!?"
"Smaller Intake Ports Gain 7 % More Power" another mistake "
I dont beleive this , no doubt everything is wrong
(have a look in te forums they have the least mistakes since a fight will start if they do....but they have adds in articles clothing )

hc_performance

iTrader: (4)

I couldn't agree with you more!!!!

TheMNkid

Seemed kind of intresting to me.

CamTom12

iTrader: (1)

He could be talking about 7% smaller than most big ports, in which case he'd be increasing velocity. Same reason why Tony @ AFR said the 205's make better power on a 346 over the 225's, because of better velocity

But, I don't know. Just playing 's advocate

hc_performance

iTrader: (4)

That's true too. But I doubt if you make the ports on stock ls1 241 castings 7% smaller that you would gain any power.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

hmm....if you are going to race the motor, then break it in w/a good *** whoopin. if its not going to be raced...then go gentle. but do NOT lead a race car around on a leash for its break in....thats a waste.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

OK let's discuss specifics:

1. Break in springs first on a new motor; bring motor to operating temp and let sit

2. Driving - after springs are warm, do you beat on it the MINUTE you leave your driveway? Or is the better method to have your car trailered to either a dyno or a track?

3. Oil - do you use dino oil then replace with dyno at what intervals? 100miles? 500 miles?

RGR Pete

Years ago I was on a BUSCH Grand National race team and the engine builders did the same thing. I shook my head in doubt. The big thing they all did was let the engine(on dyno) oil warm up to 180* and then flog the **** out of that engine. It ran strong all year. Same thing for the late model V-8 engine for the other car. RLTW

Ron@Vengeance

iTrader: (51)

All The Way!!!!!!

fastsspr

iTrader: (49)

it make sence to me but it is scary!!!

TheBowtieboy

iTrader: (6)

I would love to be able to test the logic of breaking in an engine "agressively" but unfortunately my engine builder (and others that I considered) all stated to go thru a true break in process.

...considering what I'd have to deal with, if I had "beat it", I chose to do what they told me, in having a family money doesn't grow on trees

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

I have always used a similar break-in. Many ppl read articles like that and I am not so sure they interpret it correctly.
1) use Dino oil change after first 15-30 min of running. I let it warm up, check leaks, and tuning parameters. Once its all good, shut down, change oil and filter, use Dino oil and good filter. Check all fluids again. while its cooling down about 30min.

2) Start back up, idle to light part throttle for about a mile, dpending on location. Then gradually load the engine from a stop, part throttle (not enough to break traction but decent amount of accelleration) up to 2800-3200rpms a few times with gentle ease off throttle decel. Then again from a slow roll, more throttle pulling to 4000-4500 and back down a few times.

3) By this time out away from traffic and have the ability to 1/2 throttle it up to 3000rpms or so, and then WOT progressively getting closer to redline, not holding it there, just run it up and let off, run it up and let off. Finally, if all is well (temp is big factor) then cool her off for a few minutes low rpm rolling for air movement then stop and run it like I'm at the track, dead stop WOT to top of 3rd (D). and then engine decel. Change oil again, still using Dino oil and good filter.

4) after around first 1000 miles give another oil change moving to Synthetic this time and remaining.

No problems yet, and will do the next engine the same way. Only time I am leary is when I changed valve springs 1st time on LS1. Let them heat and cool a few times, then raced it! Each side will have an opinion and have ppl that seen either way **** your **** up. Go with what your comfortable with, but at least use Dino oil and a good quality filter for the first few changes. Good luck.

Charlie

redline2k

iTrader: (9)

.

I did this with my motor. I now have 30k on it with out any problems.