Whats a safe redline??
#1
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Whats a safe redline??
for a stock bottom end with a big cam and dual crane gold springs, ti retainers and a custom tune? I'm afraid the cam is gonna wanna pull up really high and I don't want to spin a bearing or break a rod so...whats a safe limit to run one of these things? I will also be spraying 150hp from time to time but I will definetly shift lower when spraying. 6500? 6800? Has 27k miles on the bottom end.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
#4
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I'd search over in the dyno section for Magic Stick (since that's the cam you're getting) results to see where the cam is making peak power. You want to shift a few hundred revs past that peak.
I have my limiter set at 6900 for the TSP 231/237. The MS3 will spin even higher I'm sure, so 6900 will probably be your limit too since anything above 7K on a stock bottom end is not good (heck, even 6900 is not good over time I would think).
I have my limiter set at 6900 for the TSP 231/237. The MS3 will spin even higher I'm sure, so 6900 will probably be your limit too since anything above 7K on a stock bottom end is not good (heck, even 6900 is not good over time I would think).
#5
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Originally Posted by 1ScrudeDude
6800 NA with my 224/581/112 on stage 2 heads.
I think the bottom is good until 7000 or even 7200.
I think the bottom is good until 7000 or even 7200.
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#6
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My personal decision was to have shift points at 6500, limiter at about 6800. You'll love the cam.
I wouldn't go above 6600...there are people that have/do but I wouldn't. Just my $.02
I wouldn't go above 6600...there are people that have/do but I wouldn't. Just my $.02
#7
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Safe is a relative term....
Its safe to 9000...but only for a brief amount of time....very brief.....
realistically 6800-7000 is probably the highest you really want to go..
I ran a stock bottom with an x1 cam in my old car to 6800 all the time at the track..and daily drove it....the guy who bought it from me is doing the same....
and having no problems....
Its safe to 9000...but only for a brief amount of time....very brief.....
realistically 6800-7000 is probably the highest you really want to go..
I ran a stock bottom with an x1 cam in my old car to 6800 all the time at the track..and daily drove it....the guy who bought it from me is doing the same....
and having no problems....
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#9
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So 6500 is about it huh. Thats where I'll keep it, or try to then. Guess I will see what it does on the dyno, hopefully they will tune it to the limiter so if it does over-rev atleast it won't be lean or anything. I should post results on Tuesday of next week. From stock with a lid and borla, to full exhaust, LS6 intake and big cam. Hope it makes 400+
#10
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Shifting is up to you but i would put my rev limiter to 7000 so I wouldn't hit it in a moment of excitement (M6).
Also as we all know the stock tach is slow and doesn't actually reflect the rpm at which you are shifting (actual rpm could be as much as 200 above what you are seeing)
I vote shift light for M6
Also as we all know the stock tach is slow and doesn't actually reflect the rpm at which you are shifting (actual rpm could be as much as 200 above what you are seeing)
I vote shift light for M6
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I guess it really depends on what you mean as "safe". Safe would be to keep your car stock and no mods. And of course shifting at 6600 is going to be safer than 6800 or 6900 rpms...but I know a lot of f-bodies including myself that shift at 6800 rpms, with our big cams that is where it likes it the best. At the track I lost .10 shifting at 6600.
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Hell if it will take it at 7k, I'm down for it! I ain't scared but I don't want it to blow its wad on the first pass either. I will see what G-Force tunes it for and go from there, if they tune it to 7k, I will shift it at 6800. I know that cam is probably gonna make power to 7k so... Last week in my buddy's H/C C5 he was shifting it at 6500 and I thought that was high. LOL
#16
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With my TR224, I had the rev limit at 6750 and bounced off it all last summer. I have a much bigger cam now, so I think I will bump up the rev limit to 7000 and get a shift light.
I believe the '99's have weaker rod bolts than the later years, so you might want to put in ARP rod bolts with the Majic Stick.
I believe the '99's have weaker rod bolts than the later years, so you might want to put in ARP rod bolts with the Majic Stick.
#17
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The weaker rod bolts on 97-99 LS1's, which is supposedly a weak link (according to some) is one reason I'd stay lower. Forgot to mention that. The rod bolts take a lot of stress at high RPM. The reason is that the piston is moving upwards at a very high velocity and then the crank yanks it back down via the connecting rod. The rod bolt takes most of the stress.