crank bolt
03-14-2005, 03:39 PM
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sunrise Fl
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
crank bolt hey guys a while ago i put in a double timing chain with the spacers then i put everything back together. WEll i used a new stock crank bolt and i fear it might have been to short becasue of the spacers for the chain, and now i started to get a littel squeky noice coming from the engine bay so i think the bolt might have loosen up. Well anyways i wanted to know if there was a longer bolt to remedy this, and how would i know how much longer it needs to be, or are they all the same, and where do i get it??
03-14-2005, 03:54 PM
#3
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sunrise Fl
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Shu
M16 x 2.0 Pitch x 120mm I believe are the specs of the longer bolt. Got mine at NAPA.
03-14-2005, 05:16 PM
#5
"The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Two washers stacked works better than just one.
VERY IMPORTANT: Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt. If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort. "
------------
That was copied from another post on 11-06-04; not sure of the author.
VERY IMPORTANT: Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt. If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort. "
------------
That was copied from another post on 11-06-04; not sure of the author.
03-14-2005, 06:28 PM
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sunrise Fl
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wait but am i supose to use the 2 washers to take up extra room?? cuase i need the longer bolt casue of the spacers i put on for the double timing chain so i need the extra room.
03-21-2005, 02:52 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sunrise Fl
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by zamboxl
wait but am i supose to use the 2 washers to take up extra room?? cuase i need the longer bolt casue of the spacers i put on for the double timing chain so i need the extra room.
Trending Topics
03-21-2005, 04:42 PM
#8
TECH Apprentice
This is new to me, the spacers aren't all that thick because of cover clearance. Why the need for a longer pulley bolt when there's plenty of thread/depth on the factory bolt? Have I missed something?
03-21-2005, 06:02 PM
#10
Staging Lane
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Schertz, TX.
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mike at Boost Performance.co.uk
Why the need for a longer pulley bolt when there's plenty of thread/depth on the factory bolt? Have I missed something?
when the balancer sits all the way on the crank where it should 
03-21-2005, 06:56 PM
#12
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sunrise Fl
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 01_SuperSlow
The spacers are to move the oil pump out a bit to clear the timing chain and its gear.
They do not push the crank pulley out too.
The crank pulley stays in the same position.
Putting a longer bolt in there will do nothing for you.
They do not push the crank pulley out too.
The crank pulley stays in the same position.
Putting a longer bolt in there will do nothing for you.
03-21-2005, 07:33 PM
#15
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Chandler, Arizona
Posts: 749
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The longer bolts that most people talk about are only for pulling the balancer onto the crank snout, then you use a normal GM crank bolt to tighten it down.
03-21-2005, 07:40 PM
#16
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sunrise Fl
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by smask04C5
Oil pump spacers move pump out to clear timing chain.
Oil pump floats on crank drive, pulley still bottoms against timing gear boss on crankshaft. Longer bolt is used to take advantage of virgin threads in crank
Oil pump floats on crank drive, pulley still bottoms against timing gear boss on crankshaft. Longer bolt is used to take advantage of virgin threads in crank
03-21-2005, 07:55 PM
#18
yeah...um...proper way to seat crank...with gm bolt...
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft(or use a long threaded rod and a nut and washer combo-My personal favorite...less possibility or stripping threads on crank snout....and you can put in as long of one as you want and grab ALL the threads instead of just the first couple until it gets on further) until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count....so mark the bolt with a maker and do the same on the crank pulley....helps you find real 140*
and if you are doing a cam change and you have pulled off the timing cover...leave those bolts until after you have the pulley seated...you can start them...just dont tighten them down until th epulley is all the way done...allows it to center properly on the seal
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft(or use a long threaded rod and a nut and washer combo-My personal favorite...less possibility or stripping threads on crank snout....and you can put in as long of one as you want and grab ALL the threads instead of just the first couple until it gets on further) until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count....so mark the bolt with a maker and do the same on the crank pulley....helps you find real 140*
and if you are doing a cam change and you have pulled off the timing cover...leave those bolts until after you have the pulley seated...you can start them...just dont tighten them down until th epulley is all the way done...allows it to center properly on the seal
03-21-2005, 08:14 PM
#19
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Sunrise Fl
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by soundengineer
yeah...um...proper way to seat crank...with gm bolt...
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft(or use a long threaded rod and a nut and washer combo-My personal favorite...less possibility or stripping threads on crank snout....and you can put in as long of one as you want and grab ALL the threads instead of just the first couple until it gets on further) until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count....so mark the bolt with a maker and do the same on the crank pulley....helps you find real 140*
and if you are doing a cam change and you have pulled off the timing cover...leave those bolts until after you have the pulley seated...you can start them...just dont tighten them down until th epulley is all the way done...allows it to center properly on the seal
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft(or use a long threaded rod and a nut and washer combo-My personal favorite...less possibility or stripping threads on crank snout....and you can put in as long of one as you want and grab ALL the threads instead of just the first couple until it gets on further) until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count....so mark the bolt with a maker and do the same on the crank pulley....helps you find real 140*
and if you are doing a cam change and you have pulled off the timing cover...leave those bolts until after you have the pulley seated...you can start them...just dont tighten them down until th epulley is all the way done...allows it to center properly on the seal
03-21-2005, 10:16 PM
#20
11 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SILSBEE TX
Posts: 1,782
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ZUMBOXL is correct " turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, ....so mark the bolt with a maker and do the same on the crank pulley....pull 140 deg. >not lbs.
if stdard - put in gear , if a4 make a tool to hold flywheel
REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert the home maded tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place
PS: if THE DRAWING DOES NOT SHOW UP CORRECT ,it should be about 2 in wide all the way down
/\/\/\/\
|...... |
|...... |
|..... <<
| ......|
|...... |
|...... |
if stdard - put in gear , if a4 make a tool to hold flywheel
REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert the home maded tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place
PS: if THE DRAWING DOES NOT SHOW UP CORRECT ,it should be about 2 in wide all the way down
/\/\/\/\
|...... |
|...... |
|..... <<
| ......|
|...... |
|...... |
