robertbartsch

What is the deal with this new product?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Basically, its a better oil. Just slightly thicker than regular m1 5w30, better base stock, more super syn and additive packages. Too new for any oil analysis results to come back. You can look up the MSDS sheets on the website and get a little more info.

robertbartsch

Anyone know about the prices yet? It must be high-priced; right?

Droptopws6

iTrader: (13)

Id never use it.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

here is was $6 instead of $5 for the regular stuff.

Clay Ray

I would never use it either. Just because the oil is supposed to be better, your engine oil is still going to break down with heat and still have metal shavings. That is the reason why we change our oil in the first place right?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Synthetic are WAY better at staying togather over time and not breaking down due to heat than a normal "dino" oil. If your engine is producing metal shavings, then you have a much bigger problem than oil life. The occasional tiny particles worn away from normal use is typically trapped in the paper oil filter element. Why replace your oil if there's no need to. Do an oil analysis test and see how well it holds up. If you go 5K on oil and you get back some stellar oil analysis results, they may tell you that you can easily go another 3K, 5K, or more between oil change intervals. I wouldnt just blindly believe mobil that you can go for 15K without thinking about it, but I also wouldnt be surprised if this is a much better engineered oil than normal mobil1, and its safe to run longer than some other oils out there.

robertbartsch

I suppose the new stuff is more heat resistent. I believe the theory goes that the filter traps particles large enough to do damage - everything smaller just keeps circulating but does no real harm...

I've always noticed that true synthetic gets dark real fast - normally, for dino oil, a sign that it is breaking down....

fnbrowning

What GuitsBoy said AND:
The main reason oil is changed is because it either is no longer staying in it's grade, or more often, the total amount contaminates has exceeded the oil's detergents and chemical capacity to suspend/neutralize them.

An oil's function is to lubricate, clean, and cool the engine. Additives are added to the oil to enhance those functions. If the oil becomes too acidic, it will corrode the engine.

That's why all the oil gurus' talk about the mysterious TBN number when they are measuring the lifespan of an engine oil.

In short, a TBN (total base number) measures the amount of active additive left in a sample of oil. The TBN is useful for people who want to extend their oil usage far beyond the normal range.

By comparing the TBN of a used oil to the TBN of the same oil in virgin condition, the user can determine how much reserve additive the oil has left to neutralize acids. The lower the TBN reading, the less active additive the oil has left.

However, the TBN is not the only factor to consider when determining how long an oil can be used. If wear accumulations and insolubles in the oil build up and become abrasive, it's recommended to chang out the oil, no matter how high the TBN reading.

Christos

Wow if people used this, gas prices would drop I bet.

Still, what about filters though I wonder.

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Is oil really that expensive? Hell my car never makes it 15k without having something done where the oil pan has to come out anyway so I won't be using it.

Cody Brooks

iTrader: (2)

i dont intend to go 15k on an oil change no matter what kind of oil but when you look at it versus regular mobil 1 the price difference is about $5-6 for 6 quarts and its simply a better oil than regular m1 so whats $5 more if its better for your engine?

I bought the 15k mobil 1 in the 5 quart jug at walmart for $24 as opposed to $20 for the oil M1 and got 1 quart individually since 5 is not enough for alittle over $5. $29 for oil is not bad when you think about how long it will last I'm not talking 15000 i'm talking 5-8000 when you consider how long it takes to drive that many miles its very reasonably priced.

as for using synthetic oils to help lower gas prices I don't think that if everyone quit using dino oils altogether and the oil companies quit making anything other than synthetic gas prices probably still wouldn't fall.

john shea

Sorry ,I should have used search instead of starting a new thread.
While speaking about oil.How was light sweet crude named
by taste or when the oil guys saw the profits they said
sweet.

J-Rod

sweet crude = low or no sulfur content.
sour crude = higher sulfur content

madpwr1

iTrader: (3)

patman, this threads for you ... get to testing

35thls1ss19

iTrader: (1)

i am with you on that one, just thinking about 15 k on a filter makes me

cenTX-LS1

iTrader: (1)

You could always change the filter and top-off the oil about half way through the interval.

jbuckweiser

I just checked with a tech friend as I'm getting my oil changed tomorrow and
he said that GM wouldn't warantee anything over the 7000 mile one. GM's not
buying into that extreme oil changes>7000miles.

Tranzor

No matter what the mileage interval an oil claims to have, I wouldn't go longer than a 1 year interval at the very longest. As is, I pretty much stick to a 6 month/6k mile interval... and for me, 6 months always comes first. I basically change the oil once before racing season, and once after.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

i hardly get 6k miles on my car in a year, lol. Let alone 15. But a problem that youd run into with the LS1 is, at 15k miles, there would be no oil left in the pan with the way these motors go through the stuff. Hell I find about 6oz of oil in my catch can every 3k miles, and im sure its not catching it all either. That would be my main concern.