Pro Mouse

iTrader: (15)

Here is the scoop,I went from Royal Purple 5w30 to Royal Purple 10w40 last fall,now has approx 1000 miles on it,my oil consumption is worsened?Personally I dont think my Rings have ever sealed from the time it was new.I mean I jump on it and I have got a smoke screen behind me BIG TIME!So my question is should I try conventional oil?after using synthetic right from the factory(SLP)40000 miles at 5 to 6 bucks a quart sucks.Will it hurt me?I have tried Mobile 1,ams oil and Royal Puple my 99 LS1 drinks em all(I am Planning Big Motor next winter,So I figure it cant do any worse than it is right now.Oh yeah I go thru about 4 quarts every 3000 miles...T.I.A. Thanks Guys
Scott

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

dino oil won't offer the same protection that a true synthetic will. do a bit of searching for the countless posts Patman has put up on the subject. my LS1 ONLY sees synthetic, either Mobil 1 5w30 or German Castrol 0w30.

Patman

Don't expect consumption to get better with dino. It'll get worse. Synthetic does not hinder the rings from seating, otherwise all Corvettes would burn oil. My dipstick level does not move, even when I go 6k on the same oil.

In a case like yours, I think an engine rebuild is in order. No oil will completely solve the problem you're having.

DaddySS

I'm confused...you have new motor listed in sig but you're going to dump that at the end of the year?

Have tried to find out what's causing the oil burning?

If you're going to dump the engine at the end of the year and you change it every 3000, I think dyno oil will be fine.

Pro Mouse

iTrader: (15)

My new motor in sig is only cam heads and intake,The lower end is still my stock 99 LS1.After going with new heads and new oil pump my oil consumption has got worse.But it did seem to get even more worse with a little heavier oil?Beats me ,I think I am getting blow by really really bad.Maybe I ought to try the 0w30 stuff Patman's been talking about ,at any rate it's cheaper..Thanks for the input....

SStheBest

iTrader: (2)

OMG....i feel ur pain about the oil....i get on it in mine and same thing smoke screen.....doesnt feel like a loss in power but those trips to autozone are startin to get old....oh and does ur car eat spark plugs up as well ....i seem to have a problem with my 2 top right side(if ur standing in front) cyliders eating plugs...about every 15k ill be runnin on 7 maybe even 6 cylinders...i know this b/c my car bogs EXTREAMLY BAD when it happens and spark plugs is usually the case

2c5s

iTrader: (11)

Could it be a head issue?

Pro Mouse

iTrader: (15)

No Spark Plug issues though,My plugs always look pretty normal...My smoke is worse from 5000 r's on up.When I get out of the car after driving it ,It stinks of oil so bad my wife wants me to park it ouside lol

Pro Mouse

iTrader: (15)

I dont think so,This thing has drank oil ever since Header install back in 2000 ...It just seems to be getting worse is all

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

Synthetic oil is the only way to go, I've been running Mobil 1 since 5,000 miles. I just pulled my heads at 77,000 miles to have my pistons notched for a bigger cam, the cross hatching on the cylinder walls is still there, evidence that synthetics do work.

98A4LS1

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking about going the other way, dino to full synthetic, but not sure if I should at 49K miles. Any thoughts on this? The previous (and original) owner used dino oil so thats what I'm using. Also, no oil consumption like others I've read about.

Ole1830

I bought my car with 43K on it. The previous owner most likely used Dino oil. I.E. 100% stock car, it had a quickie lube type sticker on the windsheild, and the oil valley had an orange tinge to it when I changed the heads (i've been told this happens with dino oils).

I changed to Mobil 1 5w30 until the last change (GC 0w30 believer now).

My car has never had any oil consumption issues (58,6xx on the odo right now).

Matt

98A4LS1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for that reply with experience. I dunno, I may go for it and switch to full synthetic. I've always used FS oil in all other cars I've owned. Just unsure on this engine with oil consumption issues, piston slap, etc.

fnbrowning

Was shown this link, it comes from a factory GM engineer working on the oil monitor system for GM. Look for the name "jestel"

http://p083.ezboard.com/ffjr1300owne...icID=536.topic

Excerpts -

ALL the new SM spec oil is a synthetic blend to meet spec (ratios unknown)

Mobile 1 is speced only for (performance) cars that the oil temperature went over 300F and a larger oil pan or cooler was not an option - no other reason

Be very careful with extended drain intervals as there is little room for error

He crucifies Amsoil unmercilessly

Comments please................

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

When I bought my car, the dealer had put 10/40 dino in it (33,000); I drove it for 3000 miles with no oil consumption. Since I switched to synthetic (BG Hi-L0-30) it has used a quart every 2000. If I were you and was burning that much oil, and planning to repace the motor anyway, I'd definitely run dino, for the sake of my pocketbook if nothing else. Since it's spring, I'd throw some 15/40 or 20/50 dino in it and see if consumption comes down. Betcha it does.

Pro Mouse

iTrader: (15)

LOL That is what I am thinking too,if anything I'll save a little lootMy car doesnt seem to like syn oil.My next change I am going to try this 0w30 for the hell of it.So many people like it.If this doesnt help at all I will go back to Dino......Thanks

LASTLS1

iTrader: (7)

I've switched when I was in a bind many times in my truck and other cars. No problems what so ever! I use amsoil but I wouldn't think that would make a difference.

LS1_PNYTAMR

iTrader: (1)

mobile full syn 5w30 since the first change.. lots of nitrous, lots of track runs ect... never had a problem 40,xxx miles later.. ill be doing a rebuild soon or a later, and ill still be running mobile 1 5w30

Pro Mouse

iTrader: (15)

[QUOTE=fnbrowning]Was shown this link, it comes from a factory GM engineer working on the oil monitor system for GM. Look for the name "jestel"

http://p083.ezboard.com/ffjr1300owne...icID=536.topic

Excerpts -

ALL the new SM spec oil is a synthetic blend to meet spec (ratios unknown)

Mobile 1 is speced only for (performance) cars that the oil temperature went over 300F and a larger oil pan or cooler was not an option - no other reason

Be very careful with extended drain intervals as there is little room for error

He crucifies Amsoil unmercilessly
This is good info,Guys can argue all they want.I think I am sticking to my old school rule is the way to go ,Conventional oil.....my .02

Pro Mouse

iTrader: (15)

What I mean by old school is,If you change your oil every 2000-3000 miles (in my case every 1500-2000 miles)conventional is fine.I mean when I used to change my oil in my Fox body back in the 80's and early 90's my oil looked new as the day I put it in after 1000 miles.I beat the **** out of that way more than I ever did my LS1(I shifted my 302 @ 7000 R's) .Using Castrol GTX 10w30 I would be lucky to burn up 3/4 of a quart 1000-1500 miles of abuse.My stupid LS1 makes oil look like it has never been changed after a week and may suck down 3/4 of a quart.I have read good points and bad points about synthetic oils.So I guess people can argue all they want on this subject ,but I still dont think synthetic is what it is cracked up to be.Sure it might work well in some peoples cars but it has not done good for me.Had problems with it in my 96 Chevy Truck and my 99 LS1.I think I may go the dino route and I'll be back to let you know what happens.