Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

You may want to look at a cam like the Ausies's run: Keep the intake duration on the shorter side and run a much narrower LSA. Maybe something like 216/220 108LSA (+0). This would make OMG cylinder pressure and big block torque down low and pull nicely to 6000 rpm. The Ausie's are much further along with low-end torque cam development IMO.

Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

I am in the same boat you are, I want low end torque, im not looking to rev the car up high just ot get more power but have nothing down low. I am waiting for the roots style blower to come out for our cars. Apparently there are two companies making them, so hopefully it will be somewhat affordable, start saving now! Full boost basically off idle, talk about low end torque!!!

Keenov

iTrader: (5)

Glad you care.

SSCoulter

iTrader: (4)

216/220 108LSA (+0)! Now that sounds interesting. I'm glad you guys understand what I am wanting from this car. I own this car for my enjoyment and the more torque the more fun it is to drive. I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 with the Cummins Turbo Diesel and it makes over 600ft pounds of torque. Talk about fun to drive! I look at my SS like I used to look at my bike. The whole point of driving it is to have fun. I will never have the fastest LS1 in the world, and I don't care. I want the fun meter pegged when mash the gas. I want it to look good and sound good. Yeah, that's what I want.

PREDATOR-Z

This is why I quoted the following:

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Funny how so many guys on this site can't help but recommend "big" and can't stay away from talking peak hp. I'm interested in the same thing as you are. Besides the Vinci cams which have been mentioned, I would look at the TR "old Man" cam, their new CheaTR cam (especially with stock manifolds) and the Comp 216/200.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

The more popular "big" cams still make generous power throughout the powerband - even moreso than some smaller ones do.

d james

magnasum is also looking at building a eaton as well, I've talked with them a few times about it, and they are very interested in it, unlike before where they told me they tried and it can't be done-I'm glad they changed their tune, also it should be cheaper than the the other companies making them, magnasum told me should be priced along the lines of thier truck kits.

There was a car magazine that did a comparo of different comp cams, and even the bigger ones sitll made more low end torque than the stock cam throughout the rpm band. I think it was the 216/220 that was the biggst you could go without losing, the bigger cams still made more low end torque than stock I believe, but they weren't as much as the 216/220. The bigger ones sacrificed low end for some high end power. I'll see if I can find the link.

d james

heres the link to the comp cams http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...ID=-1044516358

1QuickT-A

iTrader: (12)

The TSP 225/225 cam would be a good choice as well as some of the proven Futral Cams..

SSCoulter

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for posting that, it's a good read.

blkZ28spt

Why are you afraid to rev past 6k rpm? In an M6 with 4.10's you shouldn't have a problem with the larger cams.

You said you want to peg the fun factor when you mash the gas, the larger cams will definatley do that for you.
I've always liked the look of the FM14, or maybe the FM13.

DaddySS

Yes but the smaller cams are more generous with the power at the lower range. Short duration (200 to 220) high lift lobes with a wide LSA make more low end torque over a wider range than the bigger cams - yes?

SSCoulter

iTrader: (4)

I didn't say anything about being afraid to rev past 6,000. What I said was I don't do that very often. Big picture here! How often percentage wise do you rev over 6,000? 99.999999% I am between 800-5500. I want a cam that performs there in that range. You may be right about the bigger cams, but there has to be a trade off. Higher end performance means something, somewhere has to suffer. I don't want to change springs every 10k and as I said before I don't give a rat's behind about my 1/4 time. I drive this car for my enjoyment. I've bounced the thing off the rev limiter many times. I'm not worried or afraid to take it to the top, I just don't drive that way very often.

blkZ28spt

They way I drive I tend to either be below 4k rpm or at WOT up to my 6500 shift points. I wouldn't know about driving up to 5500 rpm.

You just seem to be exaggerating and taking things a little too far. Not sure if that is just how you percieve it though. Example: You say you don't want to "change springs every 10k miles". On that statement:
1) Even big/aggressive cams don't require 10k miles per spring swap.
2) You want a lot of torque you are probably going to be just as hard on your springs as the BIG cams. Gobs of torque usually goes along with aggressive ramp rates, which in turn wears springs out quicker.

Try an FM13. I think you'd like it. Can't go wrong with the TR224 though.

SSCoulter

iTrader: (4)

Don't take what I said the wrong way please. I'm not trying to argue, I'm trying to illustrate a point. I'm just trying to be clear with my thoughts. In my real world driving I am usually under 4k like you say you are. If get on it for fun, or like if I'm getting on the highway etc. I like to run it on up there sure. Shift points? My shift points depend on where I am and what chance of getting pulled over by the PD are. If I am out in the middle of nowhere or at the track, yeah the shift points are as high as possible. (You don't shift based on what your lazy factory tach is saying do you?) I shift when I hear the motor telling me it's time to shift or when I think my loudmouth has made enough noise in the area I happen to be in. The rpm's are not the focus here rather how I drive this car the majority of the time is the focus of this thread. BTW, I only made the reference to having to change the springs every 10k because I have read that it is a issue. (i.e. the LS1 hotcam is easy on springs, etc.) The whole point of this post was to get some input on what cams are making good usable power in the lower to mid rpm range. Most of the post here seem like they are focused on the absolute max power top-end numbers wouldn't you agree? Yeah that's cool that you made xxx hp on the dyno, but what about the real world? In this sea of big cams, I was looking for the right cam for me not the biggest, latest, greatest cam that's all.

Oh, and thanks for your input. It's starting to look like I am back to my first choice which is the TR224.

blkZ28spt

I understand. The bigger cams ARE faster, but only if you support them with big stall/gears. Springs with just about any aftermarket cam will need to be changed after 15-25k miles, depending. I do know better than to trust the tach, I have an A4 that is set to shift at 6500 rpm. FWIW: After first gear it does a pretty dang good job of keeping up and usually shifts at what appears to be 6500.
I see no reason why the TR224/112 you first posted up wouldn't suit you very well. It makes good low/midrange and is capable of 400 rwhp with all the bolt-ons and a good tune.

SSCoulter

iTrader: (4)

Thank you very much.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

That is something I honestly couldn't answer since I'm still trying to learn about cam profiles and such. I'm just saying from what I see with dyno sheets and track performance, I really don't see that the bigger cams are simply just "peaky".

blkZ28spt

I too am definately in the learning phase, but from what I can gather most of the larger cams really arne't what I would call "peaky". Some people seem to go too far and say they have no power down low but that's really not the case. They may not make the best power down low, but it's usually adequate and IMO justified by the stronger top end. Or so it seems...