The Knightrider

I just had new rod, main, and cam bearing installed alog with new lifters, oil pump, and a freshly ground crank, honed out cylinder walls and cleaned and measured block.

I may be getting a little too paranoid, but I just got me car back from the shop after having all the work done and they put regular oil in it and said to drive 500 miles and change it with regular oil and go another 500 miles then change it with synthetic like I used too.

My noise:

Everything seems to be great and I am driving easy (shifting between 2.5k-3.5k rpms) and I notice a very faint ticking between 2.5k-3k rpm's during driving and during a gradual stand still slow rev to 3k rpm's. I only started to notice it after the first 50 miles of break in. Could this be due to the regular oil? Or could it be piston slap that I did not have before? Or is it just part of break in noise?

conan

iTrader: (5)

When I built my new motor it's got a slight ticking too. It didn't get any worse and the ls1 valve train has always been noisy. You should always use mineral oil to break in a new motor the swich to synthetic after the brake in. I changed my 3 times in first 400 miles and next change I'll put mobile one back in.

The Knightrider

Do you think I should not worry about it then?

Should I really wait 500 miles before the fist change or do it sooner?

conan

iTrader: (5)

If it gets worse have it checked out. The way I looked at it the oil was 1.50$ a quart the 30 dollars in oil and filters wasen't **** compaired to the 7k I spent building the motor.

BJM

iTrader: (1)

Does it go away once the engine is warmed up? If so it sounds like slap. Did you get bigger pistons?

The Knightrider

Same size pistons, and no its the oposite it only starts makeing noise after a couple of miles. and they just honed or polished the cylinders

When I spun a bearing it only made noise off and on but when it did it was throughout the rpm range. I have isolated this to be in between 2.5k-3k rpm

The Knightrider

I took it back to the shop and they said it sounds like piston slap, but I thought pistion slap only occured at idle or cold start up.

I also had a oil change done at 100 miles and they did not see any shavings.

Dunno??

BJM

iTrader: (1)

Slap will go away if the pistons are able to expand enough, and is affected somewhat by ring pressure on the walls. If the bore is simply too big the slap cannot go away. You are on the verge of slap at that RPM, as the bore opens up the slap is audible at lower RPMs. Beyond 2500 or so you cannot hear it. I don't know how cold it is when you cold start but if its near freezing the slap will be much worse until warmed up. I have noticed that air temp affects it a lot even when the engine is warmed up. With the oil being thick on start up it will quiet the slap quite a bit. With synthetic, the slap will sound quite a bit worse unfortunately.

My car is bad in the cold weather but much quicker to go away at summer temps. When its cold the slap is audible at at 1700 or so and during the next few minutes it moves up to 2500 or so, stays there and gets fainter and fainter.

The Knightrider

Yeah, but weather it is slap or not it never made that sound before any of the work was done. The only thing different now is that it has regular oil in it to break it in.

Cold it just be the lifter since they are designed for synthetic oil?

BJM

iTrader: (1)

How much of a hone was done to the bores, the answer lies there as to this being slap or something else. 0.0005" (1/2 thou) would do it if you were already at the outside of the tolerance range as so many of these engines were thanks to GM.

The Knightrider

They said that they honed ment that they do not bore per say, but polish them.

I also noticed that my a/c idiler is shot and squeeling. Could the tick come from that even with the a/c off?

It does not sound like that to me, but I cannot get my ear close enought to the idler to tell. Has anyone else heard of an a/c idler doing this?

conan

iTrader: (5)

Try taking the AC belt off and see if that will quiet things down, Might help you find your ticking alittle easier. I missed the part of your thread with the ticking at 2500 to 3500. The ticking with my motor is just verry faint at idle, valve train.

The Knightrider

Like I said it is faint and only around that rpm range. It is not anything at all what I had when I spun a rod bearing before. Plus there really is not a steady sewing mechine rythym to the tick... it varies in pitch a little

The Knightrider

Well I took it back to the shop and they hooked the scanner up to it and narrowed it down to the #8 cylynder. Now it is ticking while at idle once warmed up. While driving you can only here when accelerating and not at coast. The shop thinks that the cylinder rod pin is loose. I was just wondering if anyone here has any other ideas since I narrowed it down.

Also the oil pressure (in 90 degree FL heat) is 45 while driving and like 30 at idle. And the pressure guage has about a 2 psi shake at idle that is consistant with the tick.

The Knightrider

Anyone??

SUPRYZE

What kind of warranty did you get with the motor???

BJM

iTrader: (1)

The rhythmic oil movement could be a bad bearing, or if clearances with the psiton are loose enough to allow something to shift the oil pressure might change as well. I do not think the oil pressure points specifically to the problem. Is the noise getting worse?

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Could it also be a lifter not pumping up?

The Knightrider

Yes, the noise is not getting worst or louder per sat, but the ticking like I said is starting to happen at different rpm ranges as well as idle.

I got a 90 day warranty with the work done. They said that when they take it apart again if it is something they fixed making the noise they would cover it 100%, but if it was something new they would have to charge me.

blacktransam

iTrader: (13)

dude what kind of lifters are they?? mine ticks at the same rpm since i installed my comp r's its just ls1's turn ur radio up