918s worth power over a dual spring?
#1
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918s worth power over a dual spring?
i just read an interesting article by David Vizard in the newest issue of Popular Hotrodding,about the proper valvesprings/valvetrain setups for street cams.my question is this:
has any body gained power or extended the rpm potential of their motor from switching to a single behive 918 spring, from a dual spring setup?
the tests in the article were done on a SBC and a Ford 5.0 motor.i know about the proper matching of the cam and valvetrain, and stable valvetrain harmonics.just wondered if anybody has seen similar results in an LS1 motor?
has any body gained power or extended the rpm potential of their motor from switching to a single behive 918 spring, from a dual spring setup?
the tests in the article were done on a SBC and a Ford 5.0 motor.i know about the proper matching of the cam and valvetrain, and stable valvetrain harmonics.just wondered if anybody has seen similar results in an LS1 motor?
#2
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Well from my personal old setup (LS6 valves, 918, tit ret. and Cometic .045), I was able to squeeze 404 out of a 224/220 Cam only.
So I would say, yes the lighter effecting moving mass has power gain potential in it.
So I would say, yes the lighter effecting moving mass has power gain potential in it.
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Originally Posted by 66deuce
yes the light weight will help,but i wonder if the beehive type springs have an advantage due more to better valvespring harmonics?
#5
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Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
so if you have a 224/220 ~ 224/224 you will have more hp with a single valve spring than apposed to a dual like the Comp 921?
The single Beehive do control harmonics much better at higher rpm, that I'm sure of.
Here is a good read:
http://www.krcperformance.net/newcontent/beehive.html
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 08-07-2005 at 02:41 PM.
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Originally Posted by Xtnct00WS6
so if you have a 224/220 ~ 224/224 you will have more hp with a single valve spring than apposed to a dual like the Comp 921?
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
It has not been proven, but I believe, yes (minimal of course)
The single Beehive do control harmonics much better at higher rpm, that I'm sure of.
Here is a good read:
http://www.krcperformance.net/newcontent/beehive.html
The single Beehive do control harmonics much better at higher rpm, that I'm sure of.
Here is a good read:
http://www.krcperformance.net/newcontent/beehive.html
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#8
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Originally Posted by 66deuce
thanks for the link.how's the car coming?
Everything good so far, I got tomorow morning off so it is start up time, fill radiator, couple of cool downs and hopefully off for a drive. 100 miles later, i will dyno.
All i have to say is someone should shoot GM engineers for placing that cowl so close to the motor with those spikes. You should see my hands, looks like I stuck them in a box with a freaked cat on PMS.
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
I finished it last night, but i was pooped, so I didn't start it. I was too tired to double check everything and I would rather do that one more time.
Everything good so far, I got tomorow morning off so it is start up time, fill radiator, couple of cool downs and hopefully off for a drive. 100 miles later, i will dyno.
All i have to say is someone should shoot GM engineers for placing that cowl so close to the motor with those spikes. You should see my hands, looks like I stuck them in a box with a freaked cat on PMS.
Everything good so far, I got tomorow morning off so it is start up time, fill radiator, couple of cool downs and hopefully off for a drive. 100 miles later, i will dyno.
All i have to say is someone should shoot GM engineers for placing that cowl so close to the motor with those spikes. You should see my hands, looks like I stuck them in a box with a freaked cat on PMS.
FYI those spikes are push pin fasteners...you can get a pair of plyers and pull them up..anytime I am up under the cowl I do this first..it saves a lot of bloodshead...