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Any good write-ups on rebuilding the LSx motors?

Old 08-25-2005, 10:53 AM
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Question Any good write-ups on rebuilding the LSx motors?

I've used ls1howto and installuniversity with great success. Is there any site that will show you how to tear down and rebuild the long block? or engine removal?

I'd like to stroke out to 382ci soon and I'd like to to farm out the machine work and rebuild it myself... Thanks for any advise.
Old 08-25-2005, 11:06 AM
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http://product.ebay.com/How-To-Build...QsoprZ30772473

that book
Old 08-25-2005, 11:07 AM
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im in the same boat as you are and i did find this site on how to clean up your old block...

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/blockdiy/blkdiy.shtm

Also, i've had this camaro hand book i got from pepboys and ive just been itching to try it out. It has a step by step how to take her apart and rebuild her with pics, tools, etc.

Just search around, im sure you'll find what you need...

good luck, let see how finishes first!!! (im sure it will be you though since im broke!!!)
Old 08-25-2005, 11:59 AM
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Thanks for all the help!!!!!
Old 08-25-2005, 12:10 PM
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Careful with those instructions from standard abrasives... After glancing at it, I personally would NEVER use a die grinder on the deck or the head gasket will never seal up again. Especially on an aluminum block.
Old 08-25-2005, 12:16 PM
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FWIW - I had HPE assemble my long block. I was going to do it, but they only wanted a nominal fee for assembly.
Old 08-25-2005, 01:58 PM
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You can get that book at barnes and noble i picked it up like 2 weeks ago book is very handy to have. Tells u all type of good info. Also a good guide on how to remove ur motor from bottom. It cost 18 bucks at barnes and noble.
Old 08-25-2005, 01:59 PM
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I have the Haynes/AZ/Pepboys manual they're ok, but they deal strictly with stock tolerances. That manual also bounces between the LS1, LT1, 3.8 and 3.4 engines.
It also sends to to Chapter 10 for this then Chapter 2 for that then to Chapter 9 then back to 3

The factory service manual specific to the model year is a better (but more expensive) manual. It too, only deals with stock tolerances.

You'll have to refer to LS1tech's archives and manufacturers specs for the new tolerances.

I was attempting to build one, but my HDD crashed and I lost 5 years of pictures (along with 40GB of music ). Hopefully I'll be able to recover them and finish it
Old 08-25-2005, 02:26 PM
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Yeah my local Barnes and Noble doesn't carry that book. I'll have to go the Ebay route. Thanks for the link BTW.
Old 08-25-2005, 02:49 PM
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B&N can order the book for you, they did for me.
Old 08-25-2005, 04:18 PM
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ordered mine through Amazon and had it in like a week
Old 08-25-2005, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Careful with those instructions from standard abrasives... After glancing at it, I personally would NEVER use a die grinder on the deck or the head gasket will never seal up again. Especially on an aluminum block.
die grinder bad...belt sanding machine better...your local machine shop priceless
Old 08-26-2005, 03:05 AM
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I've used a die grinder b4 without any issues...lightly of course and using common sense. It could go wrong very quickly, very easily. I guess I need to check out one of these books to see whats being written lately.
Old 08-26-2005, 11:19 AM
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Not to mention that those are scotch brite pads and not sanding pads. Still care must be taken.
Old 08-26-2005, 11:55 AM
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You can get the book directly from www.cartechbooks.com thats where I got it. Also I've been wondering about poss doing the whole thing myself also. When you stroke a motor they usually have to clearance certain areas and check ALOT of clearances which means assemble the motor check where to clearance reassemble check to make sure it's all good... So why would you have him take it apart to let you put it back together? Anyways if the short block blows up it'll be his fault.
Old 08-26-2005, 01:11 PM
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The only thing I had done is the actual machine work (Bore, Line hone...), cam bearing install (which I wish I would have done myself) and an oil pan crack weld.

Everything has been pretty easy. Anytime I was concerned about anything, I came and searched on LS1tech. Believe me, just about any question you have has been asked...several times Having necessary tools is a big help. You can buy a lot of them on ebay or from places like Harbor freight if you are on a budget.

As firefighter said, take it apart yourself (taking measurments such as clearances first) then send it in for machine work.
Old 08-26-2005, 02:18 PM
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Thanks for the tips! You can buy rotating assemblies for about the same as ported heads. I'd rather have a forged 382 shortblock instead of ported heads. 241 castings are pretty nice straight from GM, hell I'll probably pocket port those while I'm at the rebuild. Using all the photos of the finished ports and the spec sheets available here.
Old 08-26-2005, 04:18 PM
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Yes but heads and cam are what make the power
Old 08-27-2005, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by CAT3
I've used a die grinder b4 without any issues...lightly of course and using common sense. It could go wrong very quickly, very easily. I guess I need to check out one of these books to see whats being written lately.
Hey CAT3, 99hawk589 here. I've got the Cartech book and another LS1/LS6 Performance book that you can look through if you want. Are you going to be at the track tonight (Saturday)? I'll bring them with me. You can keep them as long as you want (I've read through them countless times).


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