kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

Just decided to start a thread logging the progression of my cam/spring swap. I've read through countless threads just like this one, and they all helped out a lot.

First, I'd like to thank my buddy Greg for helping out during the install.

Friday, we began tearing down everything in front of the engine. JMX instructions were pretty good, but I have a few steps to add.

1. You need to remove two tranny cooler lines from the top and bottom of the radiatior on the passanger side. I have an auxillary cooler in line with the stock one, so I also had to clip the zip ties that held the trans cooler to the condensor and radiator.

2. I had to remove one of the small pulleys on the drivers side of the motor to get the bottom water bolt out on that side.

3. The crank pulley puller you need is a 2-ton three jaw puller. I didn't see anyone make any mention of this in any threads or install documents I saw. Had to learn the hard way after returning the wrong puller twice. Didn't know there were so damn many.

4. I was fortunate enough to buy some threaded rod instead of the 1in longer crank bolt. It really helped out while pulling the crank pulley. I was able to thread the nut half way onto the rod; this kept the pulley puller from walking off of the rod. Worked out nicely, except now I need a new nut cause I stripped the threads off the other one. No big deal though.

5. To remove the pulley, I also found myself removing the ac lines right in front of the crank pulley from their brackets. They just slide out of the little brackets they are in.

I just finshed up pulling the valve covers, rockers, and pushrods. I have to go to work now, so I'll keep you all updated as to my progress. Hopefully I'll have time tomorrow to actually install the new cam.

Mr. Luos

iTrader: (9)

I broke two of those 2-ton numbers.

Finally went up to the 5-ton. Pulled it right off.

kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

I also forgot to mention a couple of tools that is making the install go along very smoothly.

1. 10 mm gear wrench. I've had to use this thing probably 10 different times already and I haven't even pulled the cam yet.

2. Earthquake Impact Wrench from Harbor Freight. I don't expect to use it much so I didn't want to pay $200 for an IR or Snap-On equivalent. This bad boy made QUICK WORK of the crank bolt. Pulled it off in a few seconds. Rated at 625 ft-lbs max.

3. Do yourself a big favor and buy the correct threaded rod and nut/washer combo for the pulley removal/install. I didn't worry one bit about the threads in the crank because of this.

SSDoubleK

iTrader: (100)

Yea I spent a 109.00 at carquest for one of those three armed pullers, it worked great, also I purchased a longer crank pulley bolt, man that came in handy, and then I installed the ASP pulley and found my 109.00 dollar pulley tool would not work on my ASP, so I went back to Autozone and that cheap little 15.00 rent a tool worked just fine. Had no need what so ever to remove those coolant lines. Install was just fine keeping them attached. Hope you have a JPR tool, makes the cam removal so much easier, and make sure when you put the cam back in you get your crank dot and cam dot alighned perfect on TDC. Good luck.

kpowr82

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the advice on the JRP tool, but I made my own. Funny thing is, you posted about 45 minutes after I buttoned everything up

Instead of buying the JRP tool, I went to Murrays Auto Parts and bought two 1/4" brake lines. I cut the ends off of them cause they're flared, and removed the brass fittings (obviously). I then cut them about 3 in longer the cam. They slid with no problem whatsoever. I didn't have to grind down one side flat for the driver side lifters. The 1/4" worked just perfect.

The Larry tool made changing the springs a breeze. Those damn keepers/locks/keys are a bitch to put on though. Top Dead Center method worked great, and lining up the cam dot to dot was much easier than I thought it would be.

I lined up the cam gear and crank gear at perfect dot to dot BEFORE pulling the cam and gear. I also drew a straight line with a permanent marker from the cam gear to the block. This way, I knew how the new cam had to be oriented to slide the gear and chain back on easier.

The most time consuming job was the spring change. Seemed like it took forever. I think the total install time was about 10 hours. That's not too bad for a couple of rookies. When it's spread out over the course of 3 days it doesn't seem too bad.

I can't stress enough how important it is to work at a slow, comfortable, steady pace.

All in all, the swap was much easier than expected.