DarknessC5

iTrader: (1)

I just recently installed Pacesetter LTs (race style) and zip tied the disconnected AIR tubes out of the way.

Will leaving the AIR tubes disconnected leave an open hole in the back of the intake manifold where the AIR tubes connect?

This would cause a vacuum leak right? If so, would this cause a surging/searching for idle condition? How do you cap it off? I know I need to get the AIR deleted out of the computer.




My car was running rich as hell and fouled two plugs. I replaced all the plugs and plug wires. Car runs better, but it still surges and searches for idle and it will die frequently... It just wont stay running... I don't know what else to do! HELP PLEASE!

shudog

iTrader: (3)

I would plug the disconnected AIR tubes for starters.

Sounds like you also need a tune to resolve some idle issues due to your new headers.

FstBlkz28

iTrader: (13)

Completely remove the AIR system. The beauty of race-style headers is you can open up the engine bay by removing the AIR system.

Pull the AIR tubes(that connected to your exhaust manifolds) out. They run to a 3way connector that is mounted on the back of your dr. side head. Disconnect both the tubes from that 3 way, and then pop the 3 way of its bracket. (You can remove the bracket completely, 15mm bolt I believe). Then just pull the tube that runs from that 3way to the AIR pump then when you've got all the tube out from behind the engine and what not. Get under the car, remove the splash gaurd below the AIR pump, and then the AIR pump bracket is held on by 3 bolts. Remove those bolts, and the AIR pump and bracket will fall down. I reinstall the bolts to keep the clips from rattling, otherwise you can try and get the clips off.

You'll get an SES light from the AIR system being deleted, but it won't affect performance, and you can have it turned off whenever you go get a tune.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

take a bolt that is about the same size or slightly bigger than the vacuum hose(so it gets a little bite), and put some gasket maker in there, and stick the bolt in the hose. let it dry overnight and you'll be good. thats why i did

mikemodano9c

screw that just remove the entire air system/pump like fstblk said...

FstBlkz28

iTrader: (13)

Oh and I forgot in my original post... there will probably be a tiny vaccuum line left after you get done pulling all that out. Just take it and slip the rubber end over one of the studs from the valve cover bolts to plug that up.

DarknessC5

iTrader: (1)

Would having the AIR pumps disconnected cause those problems??

FstBlkz28

iTrader: (13)

Running rich is just because you have headers. Alot of peoples cars wind up running rich after headers. The air pump shouldn't have anything to do with it not running tho.

Make sure that all you electrical connectors are tight, go over and make sure that your plugs and wires are all tight and connected. Then try the idle relearn procecess.

brandon1221

iTrader: (8)

Off topic a little, but how much does the whole AIR system weigh?

FstBlkz28

iTrader: (13)

The pump weights the most .... probly ~5-7lbs .... then the rest of the rubber tubing and AIR tubes probly weigh 3lbs or so all together. So your probly looking at gettin rid of up to about 10lbs by deleting the whole system. But it also makes workin on your engine SO much easier.

brandon1221

iTrader: (8)

I was hoping that it would save more than that, but oh well. I ordered LT headers race style, and my EGR has already been removed so, now when i put them in ill have to remove the AIR then get it tuned. I guess 10lbs is better than non, and it will clean up the engine bay.

FstBlkz28

iTrader: (13)

Yea, of course its almost been a year and a half since I pulled the last AIR pump outa my friends car, so it might be alil heavier than that. I deleted the AIR tubes, and tubing from a buddies car a week ago when we put his cam in. But we didnt' get a chance to pull his Pump out yet. When we get it out, I'll try and weight it all and let ya know what the exact total weight is.