Car won't start after H/C swap!! :(
09-30-2005, 09:27 AM
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*Update w/ Pics* Car won't start after H/C swap!! :( Last night I finished installing AFR 205 heads, TSP 225/.589 112 cam, along with 7.400" pushrods, LS6 oil pump, and Pacesetter headers. Following the guide from LS1HowTo... I disconnected the coil pack harness, turned it over for a few seconds. Everything was smooth. So plugged them back in... got nervous as I turned the key..... and... nothing! She turns over but will not fire.
Since it was getting late I did a quick once-over of everything. All sensors and wires are hooked up, plug wires are connected as are the coil packs. Front O2s have extensions and are in the headers. Rear O2s are out altogether. TB & MAF are plugged in as well.
The front manifold bolt snapped on me (over torqued it by mistake).. so the manifold has to come off so I can EZ out (hopefully) the threads that remain in the head. And initially when trying to fire it up the throttle cable was disconnected. Not sure if those two items would make it NOT start, but who knows?
Does anyone know of anything I could chase? I've got an appt Tuesday at Speed Inc for some dyno time... and would like to make it.
Since it was getting late I did a quick once-over of everything. All sensors and wires are hooked up, plug wires are connected as are the coil packs. Front O2s have extensions and are in the headers. Rear O2s are out altogether. TB & MAF are plugged in as well.
The front manifold bolt snapped on me (over torqued it by mistake).. so the manifold has to come off so I can EZ out (hopefully) the threads that remain in the head. And initially when trying to fire it up the throttle cable was disconnected. Not sure if those two items would make it NOT start, but who knows?
Does anyone know of anything I could chase? I've got an appt Tuesday at Speed Inc for some dyno time... and would like to make it.
Last edited by Licken2; 10-02-2005 at 03:04 PM. Reason: Updated
09-30-2005, 09:46 AM
#2
che k for spark, fuel and air then start with the wiring first. then go to vaccume lines. This may sound stupid, but make sure that you didnt install the rockers upside down....i did this on my GTP when i wasnt paying attention.
09-30-2005, 10:05 AM
#3
Start with ignition, do you have spark.
Do you have fuel-pressuer at the rails, can you hear the fuel pump running before you go to start. .
Next but dont take it wrong, did you install the cam correctly- "DOT-to-DOT" Did you turn the motor over by hand to make sure you did not have problems with piston to valve clearences. Be for you went for the 1st attempt to start. Do you have compression?
Do you have fuel-pressuer at the rails, can you hear the fuel pump running before you go to start. .
Next but dont take it wrong, did you install the cam correctly- "DOT-to-DOT" Did you turn the motor over by hand to make sure you did not have problems with piston to valve clearences. Be for you went for the 1st attempt to start. Do you have compression?
09-30-2005, 10:09 AM
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It was late last night... so I did a quick once-over on all the connectors, sensors, etc. However, tonight I plan on checking for spark & fuel. I can hear the pump run and prime up with the ignition in the on position, and the engine stinks of fuel (rich? flooded?) so I'm thinking that's not the issue. The cam was installed dot-to-dot... and I made darn sure to turn the motor over by hand a couple of times at that point. It was smooth then too. Didn't get hung up at all. As far as compression, when turning it over by hand it sure seems like it. Is there such a thing as a 'simple' way to find out otherwise?
09-30-2005, 10:23 AM
#5
Finger method.Disconnect coil packs, pull a plug, cover and crank it over, should have a good blast of air and not be able to keep your finger over the hole. With the smell of fuel you could rule that out. Ignition would be the next point to look at.
Ah you say you installed headers at the same time, did you look at your crank position sensor and connector. Might have caused a problems there when you installed your headers. Need that for ignition.
Ah you say you installed headers at the same time, did you look at your crank position sensor and connector. Might have caused a problems there when you installed your headers. Need that for ignition.
09-30-2005, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 618HAWK
Finger method.Disconnect coil packs, pull a plug, cover and crank it over, should have a good blast of air and not be able to keep your finger over the hole. With the smell of fuel you could rule that out. Ignition would be the next point to look at.
Ah you say you installed headers at the same time, did you look at your crank position sensor and connector. Might have caused a problems there when you installed your headers. Need that for ignition.
Ah you say you installed headers at the same time, did you look at your crank position sensor and connector. Might have caused a problems there when you installed your headers. Need that for ignition.
I'll definitely give that compression check a shot. I just hopped off the phone with a family friend that owns a garage, he said the same thing about that crank position sensor. I'll crawl under the car and check it out. I did have to wiggle the header in on that side.
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09-30-2005, 01:11 PM
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Ground wires are connected... made sure to do that.
Just got back from lunch, ran home to check out the car. Crank sensor is plugged in, and the cam position sensor is clipped in also. Fortunately a friend with skinny arms who has high mechanical aptitude felt around back there for it. Still won't start.
Looks like it may not only be going to Speed Inc for tuning, but for fixing. Ugh. My patience is running real thin.... and frustration very high.
Just got back from lunch, ran home to check out the car. Crank sensor is plugged in, and the cam position sensor is clipped in also. Fortunately a friend with skinny arms who has high mechanical aptitude felt around back there for it. Still won't start.
Looks like it may not only be going to Speed Inc for tuning, but for fixing. Ugh. My patience is running real thin.... and frustration very high. 
09-30-2005, 02:35 PM
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I'll double check the grounds for sure. I'll have most of the weekend to hunt down the issue. if not, it will go to Speed Inc for tuning & diagnosis... at the rate of $85/hr! OUCH! But at least it'll come out running.
This was my first attempt at going further than replacing rocker arms. Nothing hard about it, just a few frustrating parts. Oil pump pickup tube bolt is the biggest PITA. That and since my car is an A4 there's a bolt that holds the transmission tube to the back of the passenger head... and it's also a pain to get to. That's about it. The biggest issue I've had is the fact that now it won't run. LOL....
This was my first attempt at going further than replacing rocker arms. Nothing hard about it, just a few frustrating parts. Oil pump pickup tube bolt is the biggest PITA. That and since my car is an A4 there's a bolt that holds the transmission tube to the back of the passenger head... and it's also a pain to get to. That's about it. The biggest issue I've had is the fact that now it won't run. LOL....
09-30-2005, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mrhzk35404
Are The Valves Adjusted Too Tight
09-30-2005, 03:42 PM
#18
I think your pushrods are too long for the AFR heads.
Buy an adjustable pushrod from Summit for $20 and make sure.
I have AFR 205's with a custom FTI 227/231 580 lift cam that I tried 7.40 PR's with. Wouldn't turn over. Used the adjustable PR and ended up with 7.350 and the preload was 1.25 turns on Morel lifters. A little more than I wanted but I can shim the rockers over the winter.
Buy an adjustable pushrod from Summit for $20 and make sure.
I have AFR 205's with a custom FTI 227/231 580 lift cam that I tried 7.40 PR's with. Wouldn't turn over. Used the adjustable PR and ended up with 7.350 and the preload was 1.25 turns on Morel lifters. A little more than I wanted but I can shim the rockers over the winter.
09-30-2005, 04:27 PM
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you may want to pull the intake. i swear the same exact thing happened to me when i put heads/cam on a friends car. all sensors/grounds/connectors were all plugged in. i even checked the cam position sensor-that to was plugged in. however, when i pulled the intake off, i noticed that the wire harness for the cam position sensor was pinched causing the car to crank fine but not fire. i have heard of many people doing this also so considering you have all weekend, i would try that. should only take about 20-30 minutes to pull the intake assembly