what all needed for cam only install?
#1
what all needed for cam only install?
just as the title says, what exactly is needed in terms of gaskets, bolts, etc. when doing a cam install. i saw at thunder racing where they sell a gasket kit for like 60$, outside of a good cam install tool, is anythign else needed? thansk!
#2
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as far as gaskets, you need 1 front engine seal, 1 timing cover gasket, and 2 water pump gaskets. you can probably skip the valve cover gaskets, as your stockers will probably be ok. the only bolt u will need is the crank bolt... u will be reusing the rest of your stock bolts, as none of them are torque-to-yield. its also a good idea to buy a longer crank bolt. this is for when u are re-installing your pulley. the longer bolt enables u to reach further inside, so when you are starting the bolt, u wont risk stripping the crank threads. so id go ahead and just buy thunders bolt/gasket package. unfortunately, you will have to get the longer bolt from somewhere else.
as far as tools, u will need a valve spring compressor and a 3-arm pulley puller. do u already have a method chosen for holding your lifters up?
as far as tools, u will need a valve spring compressor and a 3-arm pulley puller. do u already have a method chosen for holding your lifters up?
Last edited by Raise; 10-04-2005 at 11:33 PM.
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all you need is a new crank bolt. the gaskets usually are in good condition and will not need replacing..if any thing, get new waterpump gaskets. you will need some more coolant and do an oil change about 200 miles after the install...should be about it.
#5
Originally Posted by Raise
as far as gaskets, you need 1 front engine seal, 1 timing cover gasket, and 2 water pump gaskets. you can probably skip the valve cover gaskets, as your stockers will probably be ok. the only bolt u will need is the crank bolt... u will be reusing the rest of your stock bolts, as none of them are torque-to-yield. its also a good idea to buy a longer crank bolt. this is for when u are re-installing your pulley. the longer bolt enables u to reach further inside, so when you are starting the bolt, u wont risk stripping the crank threads. so id go ahead and just buy thunders bolt/gasket package. unfortunately, you will have to get the longer bolt from somewhere else.
as far as tools, u will need a valve spring compressor and a 3-arm pulley puller. do u already have a method chosen for holding your lifters up?
as far as tools, u will need a valve spring compressor and a 3-arm pulley puller. do u already have a method chosen for holding your lifters up?
#6
Originally Posted by SUTTERERMAN85
just to let you know sdpc has the gasket cam change gasket kit for like $45
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2721...3-LS1-LS6-.htm
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2721...3-LS1-LS6-.htm
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I got the ARP balancer bolt. It is longer than the stock one, and can be used to pull the pulley back on. I used it that way and had no problem, but the best way is to get a threaded rod with a big washer and a nut to push the pulley on. Then install a new bolt.
It's JPR's tool, not JRP. Just get some 5/16 dowels from home depot, if you want to save some cash. Or get some good quality pen magnets to hold the lifters up. I used dowels, and after the install, all of the lifters were still in the cups. I felt them all fall onto the cam when putting the push rods back.
It's JPR's tool, not JRP. Just get some 5/16 dowels from home depot, if you want to save some cash. Or get some good quality pen magnets to hold the lifters up. I used dowels, and after the install, all of the lifters were still in the cups. I felt them all fall onto the cam when putting the push rods back.
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ls2 timing chain
port polish AND SHIM your oil pump
drill and safety wire the cam bolts, Ive heard (in this forum)a lot of loosening in that area
sandpaper!, this is for sanding the wooden dowels, that hold the lifters, then very thorough clean the dowel BEFORE inserting into the thing (sound a very familiar operation after the comma!!!!!!!!)
cheap oil
2 new oil filters
usual oil
the cheap oil is for runing the car for about two hours, then replace oil AND filter w/ new ones
GREAT IDEA ON TREADED ROD!!! (are the threaded rod threads strong enough?)
new pulley bolt.
new belts!!!!!!!
greetings from a very soggy Guatemala!
port polish AND SHIM your oil pump
drill and safety wire the cam bolts, Ive heard (in this forum)a lot of loosening in that area
sandpaper!, this is for sanding the wooden dowels, that hold the lifters, then very thorough clean the dowel BEFORE inserting into the thing (sound a very familiar operation after the comma!!!!!!!!)
cheap oil
2 new oil filters
usual oil
the cheap oil is for runing the car for about two hours, then replace oil AND filter w/ new ones
GREAT IDEA ON TREADED ROD!!! (are the threaded rod threads strong enough?)
new pulley bolt.
new belts!!!!!!!
greetings from a very soggy Guatemala!
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Do a ported oil pump and a new (LS2) timing chain at the same time. Cheap insurance and it's good piece of mind. Past that get the necessary gaskets, and might as well change the oil and coolant at the same time, and you're good to go.
#12
I still run my stock crank bolt, and havent had any problem with loosening cam sprocket bolts. I did however have to used a pen magnet on one lifter that would absolutely not stay up, even though I had the 5/16 wooden dowels inserted. I still don't know what was up with that, but everything went together just fine afterwards. All you seriously need is Cam and new Springs.