Question about head bolts.
10-11-2005, 10:29 PM
#1
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Question about head bolts. I am going to torque down my head bolts and am a little unclear about something. A book I have says to crank the long bolts 22lbs, 76 degrees, 76 degrees. The short bolts on the ends get 22lbs and 34 degrees. But the book was wrong about the oil pump cover bolts when it said 18 foot pounds instead of 106in lbs. Ls1howto.com says 22, 90, 90 for long and 22, 50 for small. What is correct? 
10-12-2005, 05:57 PM
#3
its 22+76+76 for the long bolts and 22+76+34 for the small ones. dont forget this is for brand new bolts. if you are reusing the old bolts i would say and another 5degrees.
10-12-2005, 06:10 PM
#4
That is the correct torque sequence. I have been using it for years without issue. I would NOT re-use head bolts. Its not worth the consequence.
Think about a rubber band....you can stretch it out as far as it will go. Right before it breaks it has its most tension and strength. This is what the torque to yeild bolts are designed to do. Torque it to its limit right before it breaks and hold it there. It is a fact that it has its strongest holding point there. Think back now to the rubber band. When you stretch it as far as you can...then let off and do it again. Usually it will break. I wouldn't want that for the trouble it would cause getting it out of the block or blowing the head gasket while under heavy load.
Think about a rubber band....you can stretch it out as far as it will go. Right before it breaks it has its most tension and strength. This is what the torque to yeild bolts are designed to do. Torque it to its limit right before it breaks and hold it there. It is a fact that it has its strongest holding point there. Think back now to the rubber band. When you stretch it as far as you can...then let off and do it again. Usually it will break. I wouldn't want that for the trouble it would cause getting it out of the block or blowing the head gasket while under heavy load.
10-12-2005, 06:31 PM
#6
the bolts you bought from thunder are they ARP or OEM style, because if they are ARP dont follow OEM specs. ARP straight with a torque wrench just torque anywhere between 95Nm to 105Nm depending on your application. if you are going to use NOS then torque 105Nm.
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10-12-2005, 07:45 PM
#8
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The people at Gearchatter have it listed in the torque specs area to do the 22,90,90 long and 22, 90, 50 short. WTF.... I would think that there is the right way to do it and there can't be two right ways.
10-12-2005, 10:01 PM
#11
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i did the 22 ft-lbs 90-90 and 22 ft-lbs 90-50 as shown here http://www.lastofthebreed.com/Servic...orqueGuide.htm
10-12-2005, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mrr23
i did the 22 ft-lbs 90-90 and 22 ft-lbs 90-50 as shown here http://www.lastofthebreed.com/Servic...orqueGuide.htm
) Last edited by Lady Redhawk; 10-13-2005 at 11:19 AM.
10-13-2005, 10:36 AM
#13
the torque to yield means this...
torque until there is permanent stretch (past the yield point, or point where further increased loading would cause permanent deformation)
this point is before the actual break point, but after the bolt has actually stretched some distance. the bolts removed will be slightly longer than before.
this does not work for materials that are brittle, only ductile, or stretchable materials
torque until there is permanent stretch (past the yield point, or point where further increased loading would cause permanent deformation)
this point is before the actual break point, but after the bolt has actually stretched some distance. the bolts removed will be slightly longer than before.
this does not work for materials that are brittle, only ductile, or stretchable materials
