98 Model year LS1 vs. other years
10-19-2005, 12:09 AM
#1
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98 Model year LS1 vs. other years I read a lot on here that people don't do this or don't do that because they drive a 98. Is a 98 really as limited as I am beginning to think it is? I know the basic differences like the advent of the LS6 intake and all. I know that can be fixed, but I am just wondering if having a 98 is a disadvantage or not engine wise.
Any input?
Any input?
10-19-2005, 12:29 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
I know the PCM is not replacable, but for the knock sensors for example, could a later year knock sensor work on a 98, or is that not the issue?
10-19-2005, 04:58 AM
#4
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There are subtle differences, but an LS1 is an LS1 for the most part. Intake manifold and exhaust manifold are the biggest differances. Different cam, diff PCM, AIR, some minor stuff.
'98 - '02 F-body = LS1.
'98 - '02 F-body = LS1.
10-19-2005, 12:13 PM
#5
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since were in the "internals" section, here is my experience:
first and foremost is the timebomb of the con rod bolts, they are made of asparragus, and they strech over time, I broke a rod on a perfectly SATATIC car, mine broke a rod on startup, yes the starter broke the rod.
CHANGE TO ARPs ASAP!!!!!
then the "window" for venting gases betwen cylinder bays, the earlier blocks have a drilled hole that goes thru all the bays (Pn 12550592) and the later-present blocks have a cast window (Pn 12561168) also this later blocks have a cast "pocket" in the rear of the pushrod gallery. (not to be concerned about, unless youre planing a max effort engine)
the earlier stamped Stainless steel ex manifolds obviously an expensive part where made because thet get up to temp very quickly, later manifolds where cast because the PCM had more computing capacity to compensate.
as you mention, the intake of later LSx was developed for the C5R and looked identical as the original (which rules forced to an OEM manifold) the tooling to make the new shape was easy to develop from the originals and cost was practically the same so all later lsx have this "upgraded" intake
pistons: newer pistons are made with a new alloy that make them more stable thru thermal expansion hence they fit tighter in new blocks, also because of the thigtiness they now have teflon pads to minimize scuffing.
and a miriad of other smalish things, none of them to worry about.
you should buy this two books that are very informative even if youre not mechanically inclined they let you enjoy this forum even more
goto ebay and find ls1 + books there easy to locate.
CHANGE THE ROD BOLTS ASAP!!!!!!!!!!
first and foremost is the timebomb of the con rod bolts, they are made of asparragus, and they strech over time, I broke a rod on a perfectly SATATIC car, mine broke a rod on startup, yes the starter broke the rod.
CHANGE TO ARPs ASAP!!!!!then the "window" for venting gases betwen cylinder bays, the earlier blocks have a drilled hole that goes thru all the bays (Pn 12550592) and the later-present blocks have a cast window (Pn 12561168) also this later blocks have a cast "pocket" in the rear of the pushrod gallery. (not to be concerned about, unless youre planing a max effort engine)
the earlier stamped Stainless steel ex manifolds obviously an expensive part where made because thet get up to temp very quickly, later manifolds where cast because the PCM had more computing capacity to compensate.
as you mention, the intake of later LSx was developed for the C5R and looked identical as the original (which rules forced to an OEM manifold) the tooling to make the new shape was easy to develop from the originals and cost was practically the same so all later lsx have this "upgraded" intake
pistons: newer pistons are made with a new alloy that make them more stable thru thermal expansion hence they fit tighter in new blocks, also because of the thigtiness they now have teflon pads to minimize scuffing.
and a miriad of other smalish things, none of them to worry about.
you should buy this two books that are very informative even if youre not mechanically inclined they let you enjoy this forum even more
goto ebay and find ls1 + books there easy to locate.
CHANGE THE ROD BOLTS ASAP!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by bulletLS1; 10-19-2005 at 12:33 PM. Reason: INCOMPLETE
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10-19-2005, 05:15 PM
#8
Originally Posted by LS1Z28_98
I know the PCM is not replacable, but for the knock sensors for example, could a later year knock sensor work on a 98, or is that not the issue?
10-19-2005, 05:20 PM
#9
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Well i have a 98 hardtop ss, and just had a rod bearing just go out sat, it was supposed to have a rebuilt engine, but it was suppose to have alot of things done to it too like a clutch and it was totally gone, but i dont think the 98 holds up like the other ls1's but thats why im going to go bigger and better!!!!!!!!
10-19-2005, 11:45 PM
#10
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first and foremost is the timebomb of the con rod bolts, they are made of asparragus, and they strech over time, I broke a rod on a perfectly SATATIC car, mine broke a rod on startup, yes the starter broke the rod. CHANGE TO ARPs ASAP!!!!!
What company is ARP?
What company is ARP?
10-21-2005, 11:43 AM
#11
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10-21-2005, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bulletLS1
since were in the "internals" section, here is my experience:
first and foremost is the timebomb of the con rod bolts, they are made of asparragus, and they strech over time, I broke a rod on a perfectly SATATIC car, mine broke a rod on startup, yes the starter broke the rod. CHANGE TO ARPs ASAP!!!!!
then the "window" for venting gases betwen cylinder bays, the earlier blocks have a drilled hole that goes thru all the bays (Pn 12550592) and the later-present blocks have a cast window (Pn 12561168) also this later blocks have a cast "pocket" in the rear of the pushrod gallery. (not to be concerned about, unless youre planing a max effort engine)
the earlier stamped Stainless steel ex manifolds obviously an expensive part where made because thet get up to temp very quickly, later manifolds where cast because the PCM had more computing capacity to compensate.
as you mention, the intake of later LSx was developed for the C5R and looked identical as the original (which rules forced to an OEM manifold) the tooling to make the new shape was easy to develop from the originals and cost was practically the same so all later lsx have this "upgraded" intake
pistons: newer pistons are made with a new alloy that make them more stable thru thermal expansion hence they fit tighter in new blocks, also because of the thigtiness they now have teflon pads to minimize scuffing.
and a miriad of other smalish things, none of them to worry about.
you should buy this two books that are very informative even if youre not mechanically inclined they let you enjoy this forum even more
goto ebay and find ls1 + books there easy to locate.
CHANGE THE ROD BOLTS ASAP!!!!!!!!!!
first and foremost is the timebomb of the con rod bolts, they are made of asparragus, and they strech over time, I broke a rod on a perfectly SATATIC car, mine broke a rod on startup, yes the starter broke the rod.
CHANGE TO ARPs ASAP!!!!!then the "window" for venting gases betwen cylinder bays, the earlier blocks have a drilled hole that goes thru all the bays (Pn 12550592) and the later-present blocks have a cast window (Pn 12561168) also this later blocks have a cast "pocket" in the rear of the pushrod gallery. (not to be concerned about, unless youre planing a max effort engine)
the earlier stamped Stainless steel ex manifolds obviously an expensive part where made because thet get up to temp very quickly, later manifolds where cast because the PCM had more computing capacity to compensate.
as you mention, the intake of later LSx was developed for the C5R and looked identical as the original (which rules forced to an OEM manifold) the tooling to make the new shape was easy to develop from the originals and cost was practically the same so all later lsx have this "upgraded" intake
pistons: newer pistons are made with a new alloy that make them more stable thru thermal expansion hence they fit tighter in new blocks, also because of the thigtiness they now have teflon pads to minimize scuffing.
and a miriad of other smalish things, none of them to worry about.
you should buy this two books that are very informative even if youre not mechanically inclined they let you enjoy this forum even more
goto ebay and find ls1 + books there easy to locate.
CHANGE THE ROD BOLTS ASAP!!!!!!!!!!
10-21-2005, 07:51 PM
#14
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"2001 and up LS1's should have the upgraded rod bolts."
Yup....'97-'00 were suspect
'01 & '02 received the re-designed, stronger rod bolts
'01 & '02 also got different cams:
'98-'00 F-Body .500/.500 209/198 119.5 LSA 117/122 timing
'01 & '02 F-Body .479/.467 207/196 116 LSA 117/115 timing
Also, GM recommends that '97-'98 LS1 blocks be honed to a maximum of .004, while '99 and later can be opened up to a max of .010.
Design of the block's rear oil passage was also improved after the '98 model year.
Yup....'97-'00 were suspect
'01 & '02 received the re-designed, stronger rod bolts
'01 & '02 also got different cams:
'98-'00 F-Body .500/.500 209/198 119.5 LSA 117/122 timing
'01 & '02 F-Body .479/.467 207/196 116 LSA 117/115 timing
Also, GM recommends that '97-'98 LS1 blocks be honed to a maximum of .004, while '99 and later can be opened up to a max of .010.
Design of the block's rear oil passage was also improved after the '98 model year.
10-24-2005, 05:31 PM
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I stand corrected on the rod bolts. Didn't know '01 and up had revised ones.
Oh well, I'll keep runnin the **** out of mine til she breaks. Then it'll just be upgrade time!
Oh well, I'll keep runnin the **** out of mine til she breaks. Then it'll just be upgrade time!
10-24-2005, 06:41 PM
#17
Originally Posted by T/A rocker
I stand corrected on the rod bolts. Didn't know '01 and up had revised ones.
Oh well, I'll keep runnin the **** out of mine til she breaks. Then it'll just be upgrade time!
Oh well, I'll keep runnin the **** out of mine til she breaks. Then it'll just be upgrade time!
ummm how about rebuild time
10-26-2005, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Var
ummm how about rebuild time
Might not make sense, but i would rather do that than pull and tear down a working engine just to upgrade the rod bolts, when i already have 80K on the motor now.
10-27-2005, 12:25 AM
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The 98's are the only years that have working temp guages. Later models all have dummy guages that read near 210 no matter what. Also, 98 and 01 had slightly bigger injectors.
Jason
Jason
11-11-2005, 01:18 PM
#20
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probably my camaro was assembled on MONDAY, because the one dum fk that did probably came to work with a hangover!
a lot of stuf had failed.
IE: how do you make purposely (spelling) a Hyd pump to fail....
or your alternator (with only a 100w amp extra) to OVERCHARGE
or your fuel pump to go out at 367 Km FROM BAND DEALERSHIP NEW
or a window motor to stick
or the stop lamp constantly burning up
or the gearbox to get stuck on 3rd
or the gearbox to pop up 3rd
or the anti roll bar anchoring point in the chasis to be ripped out....
and so on,,,,,.........
a lot of stuf had failed.
IE: how do you make purposely (spelling) a Hyd pump to fail....
or your alternator (with only a 100w amp extra) to OVERCHARGE
or your fuel pump to go out at 367 Km FROM BAND DEALERSHIP NEW
or a window motor to stick
or the stop lamp constantly burning up
or the gearbox to get stuck on 3rd
or the gearbox to pop up 3rd
or the anti roll bar anchoring point in the chasis to be ripped out....
and so on,,,,,.........