Blksilvr

iTrader: (16)

I'm putting on a new rear cover and rear seal. How do you get the seal over the crank . any pic on this?

DaddySS

I haven't done one but the manual says to align the cover using the special tool, (be sure it's centered on the crank and flush with the bottom of the block). Do not lubricate the inner surface of the seal and do not lubricate the crank, lubricate the outside of the seal and the bore in the cover, then using another special tool which is a tapered cone that goes over the end of the crank, press the seal in place.

Since you no doubt don't have those tools, you might try using a feeler guage, thin screw driver, pick or scribe, long tooth picks etc. to carefully help the inner lip over the end of the crank as you slide it on. You could also fashion a cone out of some aluminum flashing, or maybe just some tape over the end of the crank.

Hopefully some of the builders will chime in here and offer up their tricks of the trade.

PREDATOR-Z

Need to use those tools, otherwise probability of leaks is high.

DaddySS

J41479 Rear seal installer
J41476 Front/rear cover alignment
J41480 Cover to block alignment
But I can't find a source to buy them?

John02SS

iTrader: (47)

Put the oil pan on the block with now gasket so and set the cover flush against it so you know it is centered. Use a small screwdriver to work the seal over the crank being very careful not to damage it. Use plenty of oil on the crank and seal to help out. Once it is on, put two bolts through the oil pan into the cover and snug them up. That makes sure it is flush and then install you cover bolts and torque them down. This is the poor mans way to do without the crazy expensive tools! The way a good friend of mine does it and he is a ASE mechanic that only works on Camaro's, corvettes, and trucks all with LS1's for a very larger dealer down here. Worked for me!

John

DaddySS

Interesting because the GM manual specifically says not to get any oil on the seal or crank?

BigBake

Everything I have read including the GM service manual says not to put any oil on the crankshaft or the inner diameter of the seal. Only place oil on the outside diameter and the rear cover bore. It specificly states to ensure no oil or dirt is on the surface of the crankshaft and or inside of that seal.
I agree with the rest of your installment procedure, the key is having the oil pan in place and tightening the two thin oil pan bolts first before tightening the rear cover bolts. Those oil pan bolts ensure the cover is pulled tightly against the oil pan seal preventing any leaks.

pewter 01 SS

iTrader: (5)

Ive Seen A Shop Install It By Using A Thin Screwdriver A Slowly And I Do Mean Very Slow Working It Around.. Its A Pain But It Works...seen It Before.. Personally My Friend Bought The "speciall Tool" That Gm Sells And To Tell You The Truth We Had To Modify It A Little Cuse It Wasnt The Exact Same Diameter As My Crank (callies) We Had To Put Tape Around The Tool But After That It Worked Fine.. I Would Try Doing It With A Really Thin Screwdriver First Before Being The Tool That Is Recommended.. Best Of Luck.

gwj

I just read that in the Helms, but it makes no sense to me.
Why would you not lube the seal and/or crank?

BigBake

I believe the material in which this seal is made from does not have the same friction properties as rubber. I mean even the service bulletins go as far as to say not to even allow finger tip oils to get on this inner diameter.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I just used a screw driver to massage the seal around the crank. No need for a special tool. No leaks.

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

I put mine on like john posted except I did it dry. Haven't had a single drop leak out from my front or rear install. I don't know why everyone on here is so **** about using special tools. You don't need to at all.

69GMC/99LS1

The GM manual says to lube the OUTSIDE of the seal with engine oil, leave the inside of the seal and the crank clean and dry.

Sorry for the cruddy picture, but in a nutshell the seal is made of some teflonish material, when you start it up with a new seal the friction heat of the crank rubbing on it transfers some of the material to the crank, making your seal... hence the no oil part - reduces the friction required.

Blksilvr

iTrader: (16)

Put the oil pan on the block with aa new gasket or no gasket ?
Did anyone take pics of this when they did the install?

Mr. Luos

iTrader: (9)

New gasket for sure!!

69GMC/99LS1

He meant to say "no gasket". He's doing this to bypass using one of the special GM tools. They want you to buy a tool to make sure the rear cover does not extend to far below or above the pan rail. What john is doing is just using the pan without the gasket so that the rear cover can be bolted into position without worrying about it being either too far above or below the pan when done. It will make more sense once you see it for yourself, believe me.

You might want to put a washer under the head of the pan bolts when you do this, or use shorter bolts if you have them - without the gasket the pan does not seat fully against the rail, the bolts bottom out before it is sucked up completely, at least mine did.

Once you have the rear seal centered, installed and the rear cover torqued down, then remove the pan. Then put the NEW pan gasket and the pan on. The GM manual says not to reuse the gasket. Whether GM is trying to sell you more parts or not is irrelevant as far as I'm concerned, the $40 or whatever pan gasket is worth it if it saves me pulling the pan AGAIN to replace a leaky re-used gasket, don't you think??

jerflash

when i ordered my new rear seal it came with a plastic ring. what you do with this rind is put it inside of the seal to expand the seal so it will go over the crank.

so what you do is tap the seal into the rear cover, put the ring in and slide the seal over the crank while pushing the ring out. easy right...but heres the problem

the ring they give you is not big enough or in my car it was to small so what i did i have a halfway used up roll of masking tape so i kept takin tape off untill it was a bit bigger then the plastin ring and would still fit in the seal. now the seal was expanded enough and it slid rigth on

oh and i did not use any tools to line up anything when i put my motor together and i have no leaks...just have to use some common sence