LS2 Pontiac GTO

I recently installed my FlowTech custom cam by Ed Curtis (EDC). Here are the specs on the car and the cam:

2004 GTO A4

Kooks 1.75" LT's w/Cats
K&N AirCharger
Borla Cat-Back Exhaust
SLP P/P Throttle Body
HP Tuners Dyno Tune By Nick @ NewTech Performance
EDC Cam 220/224 .596/.589 @113 LSA
Patriot "Gold" Dual Springs
Comp Cams 7.4 Pushrods


The Good This cam on my setup came within 0.7 RWHP of my goal. Im very happy with the results as far as power go's. The tune I have is somewhat concervative do to my climate. The Dyno numbers the car put down is with only 23 Degrees of timing @ WOTThe cam pulls hard from 2000 RPM all the way to red line of 6300. As you can see the power starts to die off after 6300. This cam pretty much keeps the stock powerband wich was very important to me. Also I can use this cam with some ETP or AFR heads down the road. With heads this cam will really be able to shine.

The Bad I think Ed misunderstood my goals and my definition of a sleeper cam. I did tell him that I wanted to hear a slight lope however, but in reality by car is fairly lopy to me. There is increased valetrtain noise which can be expected. I did have trouble getting the cam to idle well when at a stop and when coming to a stop. I believe I have resolved my issue with opening the Trottle Body Blade and raising the idle to 700 RPM. However the car does "cruise control" a bit, which doesnt bother me, in fact its kinds cool . Probably getting a 2600 or 2800 stall Converter would make the car a lot more drivable. When cold the car does run a litte rough and surges just a bit, but once warmed up its fine. I did have the Flashing SES light issue, which usually means a misfire even though my Tuner (Nick @ NewTech Performance) did delete that code. It only happens when idling and go's off after 30 seconds or so. I dont believe the car is misfiring sice it runs fine, plus it made good numbers on the Dyno. Its only done it twice. Maybe someone can chime in on this issue?

Final Thoughs Overall I am happy with my cam. Eds service was pretty good. He knows a ton about cams, more than I ever will . The only thing that truned me off was that my cam was shipped late to me. It was suppose to be at my place by a certain date and he promised it would be, but it wasnt. I had to cancel my appointment at the shop reschedule time off work and reschedule my hotel reservation, since I had to go out of town for the install. I'll try and get a video posted soon!

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

yes,a higher stall TQ will definately make the car more drivable.and your tune might need "tweaked" a little bit to help the idle and cruise control issues.(i know this from experience)it's easy to dyno tune a car for WOT power,but sometimes the drivability takes a little work.good numbers

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

i wonder if they can tune out that dip you have from 3500 rpms to 4500 rpms? fixing that, might get you the .7 rwhp you are missing from your goal. other than that, real good job there.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

Just so you know, stock idle is around 790-800 rpms, so thats probably why you're having so much trouble with idle, its pretty low IMO. That would also explain some of your lope, and possibly your code. I don't think you have to open the blade more, just drill mod the hole, and raise your rpms more, and I think you'll be well off.

Nice numbers regardless, add some heads, and you'll be looking at probably 20-30 hp more. Add a 90/90 ontop of that, and you'll be looking at 15-20 more. That should put you around 380-400hp.

I'm waiting to hear about my cam...can't wait to see what he says!

Regards,
Adrian

LS2 Pontiac GTO

Not with the 04 GTO with the Automatic. Stock is 550.

I did recently vist NewTech and Nick wasnt able to come up with a reason why the light comes on. He did tweak the tune at idle and raised the idle from 600 to 700. He said I would need a higher stall converter to raise the idle anymore or the car would cruise control even worse.

PREDATOR-Z

What you need is like a 2800 stall and (2.5>2.7 str)

The str is important as you want a looser verter to raise your idle to like 800.

Haans249

iTrader: (24)

My bad, didn't pay attention to what car you had. Please excuse me for my ignorance

LS2 Pontiac GTO

So what cause the radom flashing SES light? Im still baffled how the light can come back on after the code has be removed from the PCM. What can be done to elimate this?

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

The P0300 code shouldnt be turned off, it should be tuned. Simple find where the pcm is having sensitivity issues, and adjust the numerical value usually raise misfire at low and med tables, (32767 is the high side) I generally add 2,000 or so around the counts and see how that does. If he is using HPT 2.xx then you can do a no mil report as well as disable, two different things.

Stock idle on my 2000 Z28 was also 550 at warm temp, 800 is only when its cold or cool with AC.

DO NOT DRILL the blade. Thats such a PITA way to do it. Flip the screw, adjust as needed, reset the TPS each time. Then follow-up with tuning, like effective area shifting etc.

On the STR I disagree with Predator, I would stay a litte more 2.2 +/- .2. Reason is the IRS wont be shocked to death from the higher STR, and the STR wont make the idle any better, not sure why you'd say that? Looser is nice for some setups, but with this particular combo, and considering the IRS I would stay a little tighter rather than looser, just my $.02

LS2 Pontiac GTO

Thanks for you input. I was thinking of a Yank 2800 or Vig 2600-2800. I would like a converter that returns the car to like stock drivabilty. What are your thoughts on which one I should get to achieve my goal?

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Smallest TC I have had is a Yank 3000 and it seemed like stock, after an hour or so driving. But even that lil stall was blast to drive.

PREDATOR-Z

IRS shocked to death? IRS is way stronger than any 10 bolt out there. And I wasn't saying 4000+ stall, just 2800 TRUE stall.
The str is part of the loose/tight verter characteristic. His idle is too low and if raised it will pull on the brakes at idle and have a "cruising" effect off idle. A looser converter will negate that effect and allow higher idle setting.
Also idle tuning by raising timing at idle will help with surging and idle hickups.

As far as "going back to stock feeling", your car is now cammed, if you want stock feeling, you should have gone with a 115+ lsa cam not a 113.

LS2 Pontiac GTO

What off the shelf TC will get me close to my goal.

J-Rod

You can add timing at idle and it will kill that chop. It will smooth the cam out, and you'll be "stealthy" again.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

You may also want to look at your timing during that torque dip between 3500-4500.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I can notice a 220/224//113.

I think stuff like 224/224/115 can be very sleeperish.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Yank SS3200 would be a good verter since you have 3.46 rear in the GTO, and it was designed with a 3.15 and Vette in mind--should be "good" around town--but, getting it tuned further will help more than anything.