My90Iroc

iTrader: (26)

So what is the real deal for replacing rod bolts with the motor still in the car?
Is it something that can reasonably and properly be done?
What should I know about jumping into this task?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Plan on lots of beer. Youve already got my input on the matter... Lets get wasted and turn wrenches with careless abandon!

PREDATOR-Z

I would use Katech bolts. They are the only ones that will not distort roundness of rod due to the shape of the bolt heads.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

I did Katechs as well. It was easy as I did it during a K Member swap.

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

Can you expand a bit on this input.........Was going to go with ARP,s. Should this be re-thought?

PREDATOR-Z

Many have used ARP's and the issue of distortion of roundness on bearings after being tightened has come up.
There is 1 thread that confirmed that, but most swappers say theirs are running fine.
What I know for sure is that Katech bolts were designed to mimic the same tightening action on the caps as the original ones and they do not distort the roundness any. (bolt head design)

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

Thanks....will look for it.

dubs6

iTrader: (1)

but can it be done with the motor and k member still in the car?

Derek98z

iTrader: (55)

I had a friend do this. He supported the car and the motor (from the top) and removed the k-member.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Same here, except I put a BMR K Member and a arms on at the same time.

It can be dome by dropping the K Member bolts a bit with the motor loose but is a bigger pain. You will need enough xlearance to get past the pickup tube.

HUGGER ORANGE SS

iTrader: (2)

I would not do it with the motor in the car... If you have the means to drop your K member, then drop the motor, take the tranny off and put it on a engine stand and do it the proper way.. Why give yourself more work by doing it when the motor is still in the car...

Clint

Zeus

No offense, but I think its FAR less work to do the rod bolts on the car instead of: unfastening the wiring harness, removing the headers and y-pipe, taking off the drivshaft, removing the torque arm, unfastening the x-member, removing the tranny/engine assembly, placing it on an engine stand, THEN doing the rod bolts, and then repeating everything in reverse order.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Maybe he just mean the actual installing of the rod bolts was easier with a little more room

Im with you. No way pulling the engine is easier than a balancing act to support the motor.