Change cams or stay with current??
#1
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Change cams or stay with current??
I have a Heads and cam LS1. I current run a comp XER 230/232 112 lobe sep. 2 degrees advanced.
I have a stock bottom end with better rod bolts.
Stage one RGR LS6 heads. Stock valves milled .010. Ported with velocity in mind. Flow about 300 cfm .600
Comettic gaskets .045
LS6 intake
Mac headers
True duals
ss3600 stall. Convertor has a shift extension of 5000 rpm
Ford 9 inch 3.89 gears.
Car runs 10.21 at 130mph with open exhaust on TNT 150 shot. I will spray 200 shoot a couple of times. Runs 11.61 at 114 on motor. Car seems really slow on motor. I was thinking possible a small cam to get the dynamic compression ratio up. Lets here some opinions. With my shift extension and I'm trapping at 6400 rpms. I think a smaller cam or a cam with more advance might suite me better.
I have a stock bottom end with better rod bolts.
Stage one RGR LS6 heads. Stock valves milled .010. Ported with velocity in mind. Flow about 300 cfm .600
Comettic gaskets .045
LS6 intake
Mac headers
True duals
ss3600 stall. Convertor has a shift extension of 5000 rpm
Ford 9 inch 3.89 gears.
Car runs 10.21 at 130mph with open exhaust on TNT 150 shot. I will spray 200 shoot a couple of times. Runs 11.61 at 114 on motor. Car seems really slow on motor. I was thinking possible a small cam to get the dynamic compression ratio up. Lets here some opinions. With my shift extension and I'm trapping at 6400 rpms. I think a smaller cam or a cam with more advance might suite me better.
Last edited by LS1 BU; 12-06-2005 at 02:23 PM.
#2
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ive always ran alot of gear and big converters in my car andevery time ive gone to a bigger cam i have gone faster...im currently at the trex cam...before that i ran the tsp magic stick and before that i had a w1 cam....bigger has been better for me
#5
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I appears that your heads are choking you a bit.
If you really want to change cams, from a glance I would say
X1 (230/227) or
TR (230/224)
As for the MACs, did you do the primary and flange mod?
To do the primaries: You grind the weld on the inside (restriction) and you reweld them on the outside.
Flange is straight forward cut the flange end (restriction)
Once it is done, you send them to JetHot for recoating (better than original).
They will out pull most LTs on top (and no ground clearance issues)
BTW do you have a track slip we could look at? That can help us determine some things.
A head flow sheet would help too to compare VEs and lift flows.
If you really want to change cams, from a glance I would say
X1 (230/227) or
TR (230/224)
As for the MACs, did you do the primary and flange mod?
To do the primaries: You grind the weld on the inside (restriction) and you reweld them on the outside.
Flange is straight forward cut the flange end (restriction)
Once it is done, you send them to JetHot for recoating (better than original).
They will out pull most LTs on top (and no ground clearance issues)
BTW do you have a track slip we could look at? That can help us determine some things.
A head flow sheet would help too to compare VEs and lift flows.
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 12-08-2005 at 08:39 AM.
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The primary tubes were ported. And the donut style flanges were cut off and 3 inch 3 bolt flanges were welded on. Why do you like the reverse splits for a nitrous car??
#7
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Originally Posted by LS1 BU
The primary tubes were ported. And the donut style flanges were cut off and 3 inch 3 bolt flanges were welded on. Why do you like the reverse splits for a nitrous car??
You have a good exhaust, stock valved heads so reverse splits are made to take advantage of that.
150 shot on top of a reverse will have no adverse effect, on the contrary, you will see an increase in trq (which makes you accelerate quicker).
But your slower times might just be due to suspension, launch technique, gearing, weight transfer, slipping trans, shift points etc....
I would take a look at that before the cam.
BTW have you done a Compression/leakdown test lately?
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Thanks for the help. I'll post up an all motor timeslip and see what you think. The car dead hooks on motor. Only mid 1.6 60fts.
Hey predator why are you swapping out your cam??
Hey predator why are you swapping out your cam??
#10
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Originally Posted by LS1 BU
Thanks for the help. I'll post up an all motor timeslip and see what you think. The car dead hooks on motor. Only mid 1.6 60fts.
Hey predator why are you swapping out your cam??
Hey predator why are you swapping out your cam??
I had pretty much maximized the Stealth combo for street/strip but now it is time to go bigger.
I chose the TSP 232/234 113+0 because it is pretty much the biggest I could fit with PRC's 2.5 and without flycutting. (maybe not biggest, but biggest with fairly decent PTV margins).
Mid 1.6 60'ft is kinda low, perhaps a restall?
I was able to cut 1.5x with the stealth 2 on a regular basis with good DA.
My stall VIG 3200 flashes at 3500/3600
I suspect that I'm gonna get hurt in the 60 myself with the bigger cam, but ss4000 or higher, will have to wait till I put in a stronger rear.
I should post results by end of month.
Last edited by PREDATOR-Z; 12-08-2005 at 04:42 PM.
#12
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I will start shifting at 6600 and take it from there. I have Katech bolts, 6800 shouldn't be too much of a problem for a while.
I have a ported BBK 80mm and a modified LS6.
I have a ported BBK 80mm and a modified LS6.