JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

When it's 80+* weather, running the AC makes my engine run hot. I already have a 160* thermostat/mezziere electric water pump (not sure at what temp the fans turn on). I think part of the problem is heat transfer from the tranny with the 36000 stall converter, so, I'm already going to upgrade my B&M 19,000 transmission oil cooler to a 28,000 GVW. The tranny runs 230-240* in 80+* weather as it is.

My question is: Is part of the problem with my engine running hot because it is not broken in and is running dino oil? At about 3,000 miles, I will go back to fully synthetic Mobil1 oil. Will this help it run a few degrees cooler being broken in and running synthetic?

Also, is the SLP radiator worth the money spent? Seeking people's opinions who have experienced this issue of their new forged motor running hot.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

You won't move as much coolant with the electric pump. Put a stock pump back on.

No, it's not the oil, and not your converter. The cooling system just isn't doing enough, probably because of the electric pump.
If you're dead set on keeping the pump, then you could try upgrading to one large electric fan, and disabling the bypass if your electric pump has one.
You may also want to do a better job of wiring your pump and fans... depending on how good it's done right now.

10secondZ

iTrader: (24)

Agreed, do you have the race pump or street pump too? The SLP radiator is just a stock LT1 radiator, nothing special. you have no need for an upgraded cooling system with your mods really, I say go back to the stock waterpump as well.

Carter

Gold Z

iTrader: (3)

I'll bet your 36,000 stall is a bear to drive on the street......

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

need more details. when you say your car runs hot what temp is "hot"?
Are you still running the stock tranny cooler in the radiator?
is it the street or race water pump?
throw your FTRA in the trash and i bet that will solve your all problems. Do a search under my name amd "ram air" to see my set up. Its ALOT better than the FTRA and doesn't block half your radiator.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

If your gona upgrade the radiator, get the LG supercool radiator, worth every cent. But im with the others, go back to the stock pump and remove the FTRA and I bet youll see a good gain. Before that though make sure its no air in the system.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Well, I have the Mezziere street pump. I thought it was supposed to keep the car cooler because it's electric, thus, making the motor work less hard. I had no idea it was pushing LESS coolant.

As for the 3600 converter, it's pretty efficient and waaaay tight on the street ... locks up at 45 mph. I first had it installed and it took a little time to get used to, but, now I hardly notice it's there except when the ET streets bite at WOT ... LOL!!!

As for the radiator, SLP claims it flows 50% more coolant, but, I guess that's based on pure advertising. I mean the ports in the block and heads only are so large and can only flow so much. so, I assume the SLP radiator wouldn't flow any better ... even though it might be rated a a higher flow "capability". I can see why it wouldn't help much with cooling.

NOW, SUXSBU on a good point hit on a good point with the FTRA. On my old stock bottom motor, I did notice the car gets hot much easier after I installed the FTRA. I'll bet that's half the problem right there.

Thanks for all the tips guys. They've got me thinking a totally different thought pattern. I'm pulling the FTRA and installing the larger tranny cooler. Oh yeah - 'yes' I am still running the stock tranny cooler in the radiator. Should I change it out?

itchygomey98

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking the same thing!

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

My EWP keeps my car cooler and the recovery rate is much faster than the stock pump from my own logging.

BTW - I have a M6

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

don't get a new cooler just yet. Where exactly is the cooler mounted? not behind the FTRA is it? Umplug it from the radiator and take out the FTRA. then drive it around and see how it does.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

No, it's mounted horizontally to the right side access panel in front of the passenger side tire, so, it's not blocking air to the radiator. I'm pulling the FTRA as soon as I get it back from the shop.

Remembering back 2 years ago when I installed it, there was talk here about a few folks who said it caused their temps to rise a little. Sure enough, mine seemed to run a little warmer after I installed the FTRA ... even with a 160* thermostat. I think you've nailed my problem.

I'm going to go ahead with the 29,900 GVW cooler in stead of the 19,000 ... that woule definitely bring the heat transfer down a notch or two from the tranny temps. I may do the B&M deep tranny pan, as well.

This should cool both the motor AND the tranny down. I'll first pull the FTRA and be looking out for a better air feed into the air box. Mine's a Trans Am, so, it may take a little ingenuity.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

If you don't mount the tranny coler in fromt of your radiator or don't have a small fan on it it will not cool anywhere near as good as it should.
i bet if you ditch the FTRA and put the cooler in its place it will fix both your problems. although the 29,200 cooler will help also.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Got my Trans Am out of the shop today. Installed the B&M 28,000 GVW tranny cooler in place of the 19,000 GVW .... FTRA came off, as well ... tranny temp's running 25* cooler. I mounted the higher capacity cooler in the same place in front of the passenger side tire. The difference is that I put some spacers underneath the cooler to allow air to flow through the cooler. All my heat issues are history.

Can't wait 'til we have some more 80*+ days to see the real difference in traffic ... with the AC on.