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6.0 Iron or 5.7 Aluminum?

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Old 01-18-2006, 12:11 PM
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Default 6.0 Iron or 5.7 Aluminum?

I have two options: Build a 6.0 Iron block motor or build a 5.7 LS1 motor.....decisions decisions. I'd like to build a 427, but I know if I do that, it's going to be the 6.0 block. Yet, with the 5.7, the aluminum block will save me on weight.......Any one have experience with this on gone either of the two routes? I'm not worried about time here, I know its going to take a while before I can afford everything, being that I'm still in school, but I've been tryin to decide so I can get the ball rolling. I have both the 6.0 and 5.7 to work with at the moment....its all decisons from there....help!
Old 01-18-2006, 02:14 PM
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Depends on the power level... if it was me I would want the Iron block cause it will take more abuse.

The Al block is good and strong IF you sleave it.

Bret
Old 01-18-2006, 02:21 PM
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i would go iron too,they are alot stouter as far as strength is concerned,jmo tho
Old 01-18-2006, 02:42 PM
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isn't the LS7 an aluminum 427? if so, why not swap that in?
Old 01-18-2006, 03:21 PM
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$$$$$
Old 01-18-2006, 03:47 PM
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My pertinent questions are 1. What chassis? and 2) What application?

Mine is an 04 GTO with all the attendant front end alignment issues, so I am sticking with the Al block. If you have more aftermarket vendors to pick from, like an F-body, the extra 100# might be quite manageable with competitively priced off the shelf aftermarket parts.

If you have a computerized car already you will need a PIM that speaks CAN for the engine end and _whatever_ for the car end. If you are dropping your motor into a pre motor law chassis you might getaway with just the GenIV PCM.

HTH,
S
Old 01-18-2006, 05:27 PM
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I went the 6.0 iron route. It is defenitely cheaper then the aluminum engines.
I know the big argument is in the weight difference. It doesnt really matter that much to me because the 6.0 is still lighter then a fully dressed gen II SBC!
Old 01-18-2006, 06:02 PM
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The power of a 402/408/414/421, which ever you choose, will make you forget all about the extra weight.
Old 01-18-2006, 07:09 PM
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My car is a 00' SS w/ M6. As far as my two picks, I already have a 6.0 engine from a 02 Suburban....complete w/ harness. The LS1 I have is from a 99' and that is complete also.....which is why I'm deciding between the two. I'd like to stick to the LS1 for weight and PCM issues and yes I plan on re-sleeving it. What's the largest I can go on the LS1 block, make alot of power, and still be reliable and streetable....??
Old 01-18-2006, 07:36 PM
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Dude how much power? If you want to keep this under 550rwhp then stay Al other than that do iron.

Bret
Old 01-18-2006, 08:03 PM
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550 rwhp would be nice.....I'd like to make 600 at the crank....anything over that is even better. Can the LS1 block be resleeved and bored to a 4.125" to make a 427? I have a 4.00" Scat crank (hopefully will work w/ an LS1) thats from a SBC (its brank new) as well as 6.125" connecting rods. The only thing I would have to get would be pistons. What heads should I run with this combo? Stage III LS1's or LS6's? Cam?
Old 01-18-2006, 09:05 PM
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600 is fine as long as you dont put the hose to it.

I would just make a 383 in the LS1 block and go with GOOD HEADS.

Bret
Old 01-18-2006, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by NW00SS
I have a 4.00" Scat crank (hopefully will work w/ an LS1) thats from a SBC (its brank new) as well as 6.125" connecting rods.
Umm...If the crank you are wanting to use is for a Gen. 1 or 2 SBC, I am afraid it is not going to work on your Gen 3 engine...

Sorry...
Old 01-18-2006, 10:15 PM
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Yeah... I didn't catch that it was a SBC crank.
Old 01-24-2006, 09:11 PM
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When you bore the iron block, the walls get alot thinner. There are no sleeves from what I understand, you are just taking away cylinder thickness.

BUT, when you bore and sleeve the aluminum block, the sleeve thickness stays the same, it is just a larger bore and then replace the sleeves with larger ones! ! The sleeve determines the iron thickness around the cylinders wouldnt be thined out like the iron blocks stock holes being bored ! Heck, the aluminum sleeves can even be bored out to 4.165 if you got really crazy !

As long as you account for the cooling principles of the block ( like the 400 sbc needing steem holes due to siamesed cylinders) and step up with an aftermarket water pump and radiotor, the aluminum block be a better bet for a 4.125 bore ! ! NOT IRON.

Last edited by monsterchevylizzard; 01-25-2006 at 07:12 PM.
Old 01-25-2006, 07:13 PM
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Weight is not really the issue at all.



BTW sleeves are 1300 bucks plus machining.

Last edited by monsterchevylizzard; 01-25-2006 at 07:20 PM.
Old 01-25-2006, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Firehawk441
The power of a 402/408/414/421, which ever you choose, will make you forget all about the extra weight.
Yeah right! weight is as important as HP.

I blew up my stock 5.7 on spray (my fault not the motors). I then put in a 6.0, milled the heads to bring the compression back up and threw a big *** cam in it. it did 424/420 rw and ran a best of 11.6 @ 3500 lbs. i got tired of the extra 100 lbs up front and i now have an aluminum stock LS1 that makes 328 rwhp and has run a best of 11.04 @ 2960 lbs.
Old 01-25-2006, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SUX2BU
Yeah right! weight is as important as HP.

I blew up my stock 5.7 on spray (my fault not the motors). I then put in a 6.0, milled the heads to bring the compression back up and threw a big *** cam in it. it did 424/420 rw and ran a best of 11.6 @ 3500 lbs. i got tired of the extra 100 lbs up front and i now have an aluminum stock LS1 that makes 328 rwhp and has run a best of 11.04 @ 2960 lbs.



Uh. . . . You somehow lost 540 pounds there budy. I think he was talking about how you wouldnt notice the extra weight of the iron engine alone, not 540 pounds.
Old 01-25-2006, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by monsterchevylizzard
Uh. . . . You somehow lost 540 pounds there budy. I think he was talking about how you wouldnt notice the extra weight of the iron engine alone, not 540 pounds.
I know but the iron block was 100 lbs out of that 540 lbs. You figure people spend over $1600 in tubular K member, tubular control arms, race brakes and what not to take off about that much weight from the front end. And you are willingly putting on the weight.




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