Help! removing harmonic balancer
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Help! removing harmonic balancer
We were using the 3 arm puller to remove the crank pulley and 2 of the small tabs that the puller hooks to broke and now the pulley can not grab the inside of the balancer. Is there another tool we can use to remove it? Also did breaking those pieces affect the pulley at all, do I need to replace it? Thanks
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It wont hurt the integrity of the balencer/pully itself but will make it a pain every time you need to remove it,you might have already but keep trying to remove it with the 3 arm pully tool, I have run into this on a couple of my many cam installs(broken tabs before I touched it lol) and was able to get a grip on the pully and get if off,once it breaks loose it will come off fairly easily,but with the mods in your sig why dont you have a underdrive pully?
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Originally Posted by tylerdj
Well its too late now. Everytime the puller gets a good amount of tension on it the arms slowly slide off (from the broken tabs). Any ideas?
#7
If it's not sliding off until you start to turn it. . . can you get the puller set up, then wrap some wire around the 3 arms to squeeze them together so they don't slide open?
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Originally Posted by Murdock
If it's not sliding off until you start to turn it. . . can you get the puller set up, then wrap some wire around the 3 arms to squeeze them together so they don't slide open?
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Originally Posted by ss rally red
There are larger 3 arm pullys that you can use to grab the outside of the pully and remove it,try some of the free tool rental places like autozone,etc. Good luck my friend.
Do you mean grab the outside of the pulley or the outside of the inner part of the pulley? I got the larger pully also.
Thanks for all the replies guys!
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If you broke the tabs off of the 3 leg puller your doing something wrong. Did you remember to remove the crank bolt. Once the crank bolt is removed what did you put in its' place for the puller rod to buck up against? Some guys don't use anything. They just let the puller rod push against the crank threads. They end up destroying the crank threads and then they need help getting the puller rod out of the crank after they wedge it in there so tight it can't be removed. This pulley walks off of the crank if you talk to it with the proper tone of voice. It is an interference fit. There is no key or keyway because it only has to drive the water pump, PS pump, AC, Alt. I use a large allen head cap screw with a couple of flat washers under the head to buck the puller rod against. The puller rod centers itself in the allen head recess of the allen screw. This works quite well because the rod becomes self-centering. Just be sure the flat washers you use are slightly smaller than the O.D. of the crank. If you tightened down on the puller rod so much that the tabs snapped off the little lite bulb in your head that is supposed to lite up when your having a problem should have already come "ON" by that time. Your lite bulb must be burnt out.
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I hope you know you responded to twelve year old thread.
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On the page where all the threads are listed there should be a "start new thread" or to that effect.
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After 12 years, I doubt he is around to answer back. The fact that he did not is evidence of that.
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Holy hell, why cant anyone pull a balancer on this website 3 jar puller FLIP THE JAWS AROUND and grab the outer lip from the INSIDE. Its so simple its ridiculous. Depending on puller size you may need a 1/2 drive socket as a spacer between the crank and the puller center pin.