Zeus

While installing my March Underdrive pulley (which I absolutely think is the worst decision in my life) I broke a half inch section of the crank pulley bolt off in the crank snout.

What are my options from here? I haven't even stripped a bolt yet much less broke off one, so I'm lost. Someone told me about an Easy Out, would this be something I can use? If not is there another way?

I'd love to just drop the motor and put in a forged shortblock but I don't have the money right now. Also, if you would like to make fun of me for my stupidity, please feel free to do so, but also include helpful advice as well.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

ok i have to ask though... How did it break halfway out/in?

iamsickofitall

iTrader: (18)

just because you put the offer on the table...you're a complete idiot...lol

but seriously, **** happens - if part of the bolt is sticking out of the snout, get some heavy duty vice grips on there and try like hell to get it out

an easy out may work if it's broken off inside, but i'm inexperienced with that so i'll let someone else chime in

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

you could try and grind it down the threaded portion to fit a bigger socket on a 3/4 wrench and put a breaker on it to get it out the rest of the way.

777

iTrader: (21)

I just want to know how this happened.

Zeus

I haven't been able to positively confirm this, but I'm pretty sure the bolt is broken off flush with the crank snout so I can't weld a new head to it, or use vice grips. I seriously have no idea how, but I was backing the bolt out and it got stuck and broke off when I tried to turn it some more. I must be the incredible Hulk because it was a size M16 bolt.

It's also stuck on something or seized in the hole so I'm probably going to need to find a way to drill it out or something.

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

You must have been cranking like hell on it to break that bolt!!!!

Using a center punch, punch a hole dead center in the broken off bolt. Use the correct size drill bit to drill through the bolt. Use the correct size EZ out to extract the bolt. This should work pretty easily. It's a blind hole so it will have to be extracted from the front. I'm not sure if the bolt is hardened steel or not but you might have to invest in some $$ titanium bits if it is.

Zeus

what can I say, I am Zeus and I have the strenght of a thousand warriors coursing through my veins

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Because even though this happenes over and over and crank threads continue to get stripped, people still install pulleys with a bolt instead of a piece of all-thread, washers and a nut. Sucks that it happened, but that's why.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Since it broke on the way out I doubt an easy out will help.The bolt is stripping it's way out.I would try to weld something to the bolt,then heat the crank with a torch till it's pretty much glowing then turn it out.

Black Z/28

It seems obvious to me as well- yet some still seem to argue about it. It didn't take much reading for me to understand that once you get this long bolt seated, ain't no way you're gonna strip out the hole:

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Well there is your problem right there!

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Don't you make a piece and sell them to people doing cam/pulley swaps?

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

That looks like the one I used to sell. I stopped because I flamed by a lot of people here that my tool was too expensive and everyone should just go buy the $3 longer bolt. I got tired of defending it. My tool was cheaper than fixing fucked up crank threads. Maybe I should start selling them again.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

You and Zaine borrowed my tool when you did your cam.

bowtieman81

iTrader: (35)

Darn good reason not to use TTY bolts over again, even though some do. I wonder if the bolt broke right after the shank where the threads start?

Black Z/28

I did get that from you (a year and a half ago). And I remember the **** you were taking because you were packaging that thing up and selling it. I thought it was a great deal. I snatched one up just before you stopped selling them. You included the nut and washers, packaged it up very nice, and shipped it out quick. You even included instructions! Thanks again, money well spent.

RSB

iTrader: (1)

You could try a rosette weld.

Take the head of the bolt you have left over, and drill a fairly large hole in it inline with what would be the bolt shank. Try not to disturb the broken part too much. The idea is to put it against the piece broken inside the snout, clocking it so it matches as best as you can, and then weld through the hole into the end of the broken bolt, and filling up the drilled hole with weld. The weld should be stronger than the bolt depending upon the filler material selection and your proficiency. Hopefully the heat will help loosen things up too. You might get lucky.

An easy out will almost certainly not work because they're typically too brittle, and you just can't develop enough torque in a situation where the torque value being applied was enough to shear off a fastener with more cross section than the easy out.

91z28-350

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1098

DavidNJ

I don't think I would like to pound like that on the crank: