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How EXACTLY do I check p/v valve clearance on a new buildup?

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Old 02-02-2006, 02:39 PM
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Default How EXACTLY do I check p/v valve clearance on a new buildup?

I just recieved a new SDPC 402 shortblock, and am ordering some ET Performance heads today or tomorrow. With the cam lift/piston combination I have, I was advised by a site sponsor to make sure to check the valves for clearance. Can anyone walk me thru what I need and how to do this. Last time I saw it done, it was with a little strip of clay, but that wasn't on valve clearance.
Old 02-02-2006, 03:31 PM
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big strip of clay lol.

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Old 02-02-2006, 07:29 PM
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See if this answers all your questions:

http://www.fordmuscle.com/fundamenta...ve/index.shtml

I went with the checker spring method....seems a lot more accurate.
Old 02-02-2006, 07:43 PM
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if you use the clay method you might as well just not care about your p/v clearance. You need to get a dial indicator and the stand that goes with it and a test spring.

Install the new can with no spings on the vavles if you have the ***** to do that. Put the test spings on the number one pistion exhause vavles and intake vavles. Now put the stand and with the dial indicator in it on one of the vavles. Set the motor at top dead center and rotate the motor 30 degrees forward for TDC and 30 degrees before. Ever degree you need to push on the spring and take a reading. You will be able to get your p/v clearance check and you will know it to the .001. Unlike the clay when you just get a guesstimate.

You can do it right and your motor will live or wrong and you have a shot at getting it right but also a shot at getting it wrong. And good by long block if you got it wrong.

Parts to do the p/v clearance my way will cost $150
the clay way is under $2 Get it wrong though and it could cost 3k

Just my .02

p.s. i have all these parts allready for milling. But a feeler gauge will work to. Like posted above.
Old 02-02-2006, 07:46 PM
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You can use the clay method, if you are careful, take a razor blade, and cut out the section of the clay that got compressed, then measure it. But, goober35 is right, a dial indicator is a very good way to do it.
Old 02-02-2006, 08:08 PM
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Thanks for the information Gentlemen, it was very useful. I'll check around locally and see if I can rent the tools needed for this job. It sounds like the hardest part is making sure not to load the hydraulic lifters... Then again, maybe I'll check with the clay first, and if it looks anywhere close to the "safe margin" specs mentioned, I'll do it the long way.

At least now I'm informed.
Thanks again
Old 02-02-2006, 08:10 PM
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You will not have a lifter problem because you will be using a test spring. The sping only has like 5lb of seat presure
Old 02-02-2006, 08:25 PM
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Well, it couldn't hurt to give the specs of what I'll be dealing with:

SDPC LS2 402
-14cc (dished) Diamond pistons
ET Performance 245's, 59cc 11 degree heads (milled from 62cc castings)
Comp Cams 242/250 .611"/.619" 114+2 LSA

I was told that LS1speed tuned that cam on a 422 Corvette Z06, and it peaked at 6000 rpms. I'd like it a bit higher so I'm going to experiment with installing it retarded 2 degrees. So piston/valve clearance is a serious concern right now.
Old 02-02-2006, 09:03 PM
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If you retard it 2*, you'll gain some on the intake. Exhaust shouldn't be an issue...but check.

Don't these pistons have valve reliefs?
Old 02-02-2006, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by V-10 Killer
It sounds like the hardest part is making sure not to load the hydraulic lifters...
If you are using new lifters, weld up an old one so it acts like a solid one. That's what I did.
Old 02-02-2006, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Fell
If you retard it 2*, you'll gain some on the intake. Exhaust shouldn't be an issue...but check.

Don't these pistons have valve reliefs?
It's embaressing to say this, but I can't remember how they're set up. I got the motor a month ago today, and only had time to unload it at my friends house where all the parts that used to look like my car is stored this winter. I've been back to college (plus full time job plus overtime plus family plus girlfriend...) ever since and haven't had a chance to start assembly of it yet.
However, I believe they're set up with a big lima bean shape machined out of the surface of them. I'll verify this early next week when my friend comes back to let me in the barn.

I heard that with the ETP 11 degree heads, the valve reliefs are not only at a different angle, but in slightly different locations. So the whole ordeal will be interesting to say the least.




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