macdaddyZ28

I have a 02 z and want to do a cam swap in it. What is the biggest cam I can run without doing anything but changing out springs? I want a really rough idle to. I hear that real big cams require some crazy mods.

blkZ28spt

Edited: My reading comprehension sucks today.


You *can* go as big as your PTV clearance will allow, but that is not what you *should* do.

You will want steep gears, those 3.73's can be made to work but you won't want to go too big and a good intake/exhaust setup.

Look at an FM13, MS3, 233/239, G5X2 or G5X3, etc. Search, search, and search some more. There is a lot of info to be had.

Lithium

iTrader: (47)

Trex, G5X3/X4, MS3, F15 etc...

Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

For a cam like the ones mentioned, you will also need hardened pushrods. I wouldn't go much bigger than the little LS6 cam if you don't even want to do pushrods. If you are going to do something like a cam though, you are best off doing the job right and at least getting PR's and appropriate springs. This isn't something you want to skimp on.

gen3toy

TARZAN

iTrader: (12)

Agreed, if you're gonna do it, go ahead and do springs, retainers, and pushrods...

Its not about the "biggest cam" you can get away with....You should be asking what cam would make optimum power with my current setup ...And then we'd need to know what exactly you plan (and hope for) with the car...

-Will

DocEwww

iTrader: (1)

Sound like you want the T Rex offered by Thunder Racing. How high are you willing to rev the motor?

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Possibly dual springs at that. Cam that big isnt going to hit power until towards the end of the RPM road.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

If you want a very low cost way to get a rough idle, leave the stock cam in and drop your idle speed to 600 rpm.

The point is any cam can be made to sound mean. If you are looking to keep costs down, look at some of the comp cams with a .530 lift as those are easier are on the valvetrain and pick valve events that don't require a high shift point. You could take an off the shelf grind like the 212/218 114 and have it redone on a 112 or 111 LSA for more midrange power and a low shift point (i.e. 6000 to 6200 rpm). Keep the idle at 750 and it will sound plenty mean. You can add an altenator overdrive pulley for your stereo gear.

macdaddyZ28

[QUOTE=Ragtop 99]If you want a very low cost way to get a rough idle, leave the stock cam in and drop your idle speed to 600 rpm.

The point is any cam can be made to sound mean

thats basically what I am looking for. I do plan on the swap, hoping to get in the 11's, thats about as fast as I want it right now. I plan on soon changin to 4.11's. Real soon. But right now how can I get that rough idle? Also thanks for the tip on the pulley!

nokeman

iTrader: (30)

Just do everything the first time...i say this because I know for a fact that, if you go with a small cam, in a couple months time you will want to upgrade to something bigger, which will require upgrading everything anyway. Just my .02

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

You need tuning software to change your idle speed. When you get a cam, you'll want tuning software or need a tune to get the most out of it, so start figuring out how you plan to deal with that.

The hardest thing about getting 11s to get a good 60' w/o destroying your 10 bolt. Adding the stereo adds weight so that doesn't help either.

Also are you getting headers (I notice they are not in your sig)? If not, that's another thing hurting your quest because it is costing you .2 - .3 and it limits your cam selection.

Also 4.10s like to rev, but you don't want to buy the springs to match that capability.

You really need to think about your goals and budget and select a good combo. If your budget is tight, skip the 4.10s and use the money to get a good valvetrain. Then you can use more agressive lobes and get more power from your cam.