Help me choose a cam swap setup.
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Help me choose a cam swap setup.
I currently have a 99 Z28 A4 car with a 3400 2.5 SRT converter, hooker catback, and lid. I am interested in doing a cam swap and need help choosing a setup. This is what I am looking for: I am 22 years old so I can deal with quite a bit of discomfort for the sake of power, so I want to go with a more agressive cam as I wish I had gone with a bigger converter as well. I want the cam to lope quite a bit and sound like an old serious musclecar. I plan on going with a hooker headers and ORY along with my hooker catback. I also plan on going with HP tuners or Edit, whichever is the better program. The car is a daily driver, so I would like to get a fair amount of reliability from it. Allready planning on double springs. I don't want to rev too high and do want some low end power, but at the same time I don't want to be a ***** about it. I was thinking somewhere along the lines of 230 duration with .590 lift or so. Any cam suggestions? What else will I need to go along with the swap? I would like to save some money so if something isn't completely in need of replacement I would like to use the same part. Thanks for the help.
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Well I was thinking along the lines of the FM13 230/232 .591/.585 112 or 114 or the TSP 231/237 .598/.597 112 I want a cam that lopes like a bad bitch but I want to take it easy on the springs so the FM13 looks good to me with it's lower lift. Maybe in a 114lsa for better low end power. Any opinions?
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Hotcam sounds really good....T-Rex lopes like a "bad bitch"
Hot cam is easy on the springs and the T-Rex isnt.
Ok, the 231/237 will sound good and give you some pretty good delivery on power. But if you are going to go that far you might as well get a magicstick. Only problem with that is that you have a small stall compared to what you would need. Also known as power still left on the table. You can always get it restalled as well.
Here is what you want apparently:
1. lopey mother ****** = Something with 8* of overlap or more. FWIW the T-Rex has 25*.
2. Something that will work with your current setup. (converter).
3. double springs will allow you to run a .600-.650 lift. = good
4. double springs will also laugh at the lift of the F13 and 231/237
5. face it. You want a 238-242 cam with .605 lift on a 113 LSA or maybe a 114 since you are an A4.
All in all, sounds like you are barking up the right tree man. ORY+Longtubes will give you the bad bitch sound you want.
Hot cam is easy on the springs and the T-Rex isnt.
Ok, the 231/237 will sound good and give you some pretty good delivery on power. But if you are going to go that far you might as well get a magicstick. Only problem with that is that you have a small stall compared to what you would need. Also known as power still left on the table. You can always get it restalled as well.
Here is what you want apparently:
1. lopey mother ****** = Something with 8* of overlap or more. FWIW the T-Rex has 25*.
2. Something that will work with your current setup. (converter).
3. double springs will allow you to run a .600-.650 lift. = good
4. double springs will also laugh at the lift of the F13 and 231/237
5. face it. You want a 238-242 cam with .605 lift on a 113 LSA or maybe a 114 since you are an A4.
All in all, sounds like you are barking up the right tree man. ORY+Longtubes will give you the bad bitch sound you want.
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
If you look at it that way. It will just need to be spun higher, and will act about the same way as the 233/239 and the 231/237. Just bigger specs.
Good to hear.
Im doing a MS3 cam only setup for now and hoping that it can be driven everyday with no major issues. Just some slight bucking under 1500rpms, that I can live with.
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oh man I am on TSP's website just drooling all over my keyboard. **** it I'm getting the MS3. That cam going to be ok for dual springs? I don't want to be blowing springs all over the place. What will I need to rev my engine that high? New connecting rod bolts? I want to do this right.
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You will want to have dual springs for the MS3. Rod bolts are a good idea if you are going to be high 6k and maybe 7k RPMS. Katech or ARP make some really good ones.
As far as driveablitly goes. The MS3 will be not as tolerable as the 231/237. It will be in the caliber of the tune that you will ultimately be counting on.
Realativelyfast:
You are going to want to look at 3800-4200 stall for that MS3 if my thinking is correct.
Crazee: You will want 3.73-4.10 gears to make that cam not be an extreme dog under say 3000rpms. And with that and a tune, you may see just very little bucking and surging, if any at all.
As far as driveablitly goes. The MS3 will be not as tolerable as the 231/237. It will be in the caliber of the tune that you will ultimately be counting on.
Realativelyfast:
You are going to want to look at 3800-4200 stall for that MS3 if my thinking is correct.
Crazee: You will want 3.73-4.10 gears to make that cam not be an extreme dog under say 3000rpms. And with that and a tune, you may see just very little bucking and surging, if any at all.