402 supporting parts
04-02-2006, 09:17 PM
#1
402 supporting parts I'm doing an 402 for my car after having a hiccup in the stock shortblock, so far I have down on the listto either reuse my ported ls6 heads, or go with 225 afr's, a 90/90 setup, a set of 42 lb injectors, and a better fuel pump.
I already have a set of qtp 1 3/4 headers and catted Y with a lm catback, are bigger headers really needed for a 402 that will see a little nitrous every now and then? the goal is to get the car into the high 10's on motor, and aim for mid to low 10's with a 100 to 150 shot.
I'm still undecided on a cam as well, I'm thinking something in the 242/248 range on a 113 lsa, with lift #'s around 600 intake and 620 exhaust.
If there's anythign I'm missing, or if the cam seems too big/small, I'm open to reccomendations.
The motor's going in a transam with a th400 setup, 4500 converter and 4.10 gears, at least for now. Car's most likly in the 3700+ range once the motor's in, the winter's project is going to consist of having the fast intake ported, an electric water pump put on, and weight reduction, enough to at least make up for the weight of the block, and teh rollbar that's gonna have to go in.
Another question.. anyone have a weight difference between a regular ls1 block and a 6 lire iron block? I keep getting different #'s, someone must have weigh'd the 2.
I already have a set of qtp 1 3/4 headers and catted Y with a lm catback, are bigger headers really needed for a 402 that will see a little nitrous every now and then? the goal is to get the car into the high 10's on motor, and aim for mid to low 10's with a 100 to 150 shot.
I'm still undecided on a cam as well, I'm thinking something in the 242/248 range on a 113 lsa, with lift #'s around 600 intake and 620 exhaust.
If there's anythign I'm missing, or if the cam seems too big/small, I'm open to reccomendations.
The motor's going in a transam with a th400 setup, 4500 converter and 4.10 gears, at least for now. Car's most likly in the 3700+ range once the motor's in, the winter's project is going to consist of having the fast intake ported, an electric water pump put on, and weight reduction, enough to at least make up for the weight of the block, and teh rollbar that's gonna have to go in.
Another question.. anyone have a weight difference between a regular ls1 block and a 6 lire iron block? I keep getting different #'s, someone must have weigh'd the 2.
04-03-2006, 12:29 PM
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My 402 is done and should be ready to install within a week, here's what I got for supporting mods....
Well first off, if you go LS2 block, it's aluminum and should weigh nearly the same as the stock LS1 block, no need to go Iron now adays unless you plan to make A TON of power via boost, etc.
Back to the mods, here's my list....
Combination Motorsports LS2 402 ~ 11.5:1
FAST 90/NW 90
QTP 1 7/8's headers with 3" True duals with Borla XR1's
Dart 225's or 245's whatever, PRC Stage 3 port job with 2.08/1.60 valves, dual springs
Custom Grind Ed Curtis cam, 238/244 (I think, can't remember exactly), .629/.629 113lsa
Stock water pump
42lb injectors
Nasty Billet Rails
Racetronix 255 pump kit
Racetronix LS2 conversion harnesses
Moser 12 bolt with 4.11's
McLeod Street Twin
Built T-56
SLP Radiator
85mm MAF
ASP Crank pulley
I think that's about it, I got the bigger headers just in case, I had them on my stock motor and planned for the future. I plan to run a 200 shot or more on this motor later, but that would force me to a new fuel setup, and I'm not ready for that yet.
I think heads are pretty important, and I would do them now when the new motor is built and it's easier to install them, you can add the intake, etc later which is much easier to deal with.
The cam thing is up to you, I had Ed make me one fitted to the car and engine, so it should do well and be streetable since I drive the car all the time.
Hope that helps a little
Well first off, if you go LS2 block, it's aluminum and should weigh nearly the same as the stock LS1 block, no need to go Iron now adays unless you plan to make A TON of power via boost, etc.
Back to the mods, here's my list....
Combination Motorsports LS2 402 ~ 11.5:1
FAST 90/NW 90
QTP 1 7/8's headers with 3" True duals with Borla XR1's
Dart 225's or 245's whatever, PRC Stage 3 port job with 2.08/1.60 valves, dual springs
Custom Grind Ed Curtis cam, 238/244 (I think, can't remember exactly), .629/.629 113lsa
Stock water pump
42lb injectors
Nasty Billet Rails
Racetronix 255 pump kit
Racetronix LS2 conversion harnesses
Moser 12 bolt with 4.11's
McLeod Street Twin
Built T-56
SLP Radiator
85mm MAF
ASP Crank pulley
I think that's about it, I got the bigger headers just in case, I had them on my stock motor and planned for the future. I plan to run a 200 shot or more on this motor later, but that would force me to a new fuel setup, and I'm not ready for that yet.
I think heads are pretty important, and I would do them now when the new motor is built and it's easier to install them, you can add the intake, etc later which is much easier to deal with.
The cam thing is up to you, I had Ed make me one fitted to the car and engine, so it should do well and be streetable since I drive the car all the time.
Hope that helps a little
04-04-2006, 11:51 AM
#4
I'm gonna go with the iron block for a couple reasons... one being that it's enough $ cheaper that it makes it worth while to me, and I know I will be hitting it with nitrous as well eventually so to me it's worth it. The 100 lbs will come out from somewhere, plus the added weight wil help keep the nosedwon on launch too some.
I al going to go with a fast intake, and have tony from AFR port match it over the winter before the DP kit goes on the intake, to mak it out n/a and help on the bottle as well.
I've made the decision, AFR 225's are gonna go on as well, along with 42 lb injectors and a 255 fuel pump. When I add nitrous to the car I'll most likly end up going with a standalone fuel system for that so I can put race gas in it, and run pump in the tank, saves $ on race gas, and no need to worry about the fuel pump out back being big enough to empty a swimming pool in 5 minutes. I think the stock rails will be fine, if that ends up not being true I'll upgrade later. I'm going to do an elec water pump as well when the intake is out for work during next winter, so I think the stock radiator will be o.k. with that. the headers are my only concern right now, I think that they will help low end tq being 1 3/4 size, but may hurt the top end HP a little, only way will be to try them first and see what the setup does. the next thing I'd try with the exhaust, would be to remove all of it from the headers back, get a set of high flow stainless cats ( emmissions here in ct are still in effect, and I don't need the headache) and a set of bullet's after them and see what that does. If that works better, then maybe an x pipe and a dual over the axle might get done... but for now, I'm leaving the QTP catted Y on there with the LM and see what it does.
Your cam look similar to what I was thinking about going with, I think something in the 242/248 range on a 113 lsa will probably be the ticket, but I'm going bigger on the lift, at least 610 intake and 620 exhaust. With the 11.5 to 1 compression and AFR head, I see no reason not to run something in that range.
I al going to go with a fast intake, and have tony from AFR port match it over the winter before the DP kit goes on the intake, to mak it out n/a and help on the bottle as well.
I've made the decision, AFR 225's are gonna go on as well, along with 42 lb injectors and a 255 fuel pump. When I add nitrous to the car I'll most likly end up going with a standalone fuel system for that so I can put race gas in it, and run pump in the tank, saves $ on race gas, and no need to worry about the fuel pump out back being big enough to empty a swimming pool in 5 minutes. I think the stock rails will be fine, if that ends up not being true I'll upgrade later. I'm going to do an elec water pump as well when the intake is out for work during next winter, so I think the stock radiator will be o.k. with that. the headers are my only concern right now, I think that they will help low end tq being 1 3/4 size, but may hurt the top end HP a little, only way will be to try them first and see what the setup does. the next thing I'd try with the exhaust, would be to remove all of it from the headers back, get a set of high flow stainless cats ( emmissions here in ct are still in effect, and I don't need the headache) and a set of bullet's after them and see what that does. If that works better, then maybe an x pipe and a dual over the axle might get done... but for now, I'm leaving the QTP catted Y on there with the LM and see what it does.
Your cam look similar to what I was thinking about going with, I think something in the 242/248 range on a 113 lsa will probably be the ticket, but I'm going bigger on the lift, at least 610 intake and 620 exhaust. With the 11.5 to 1 compression and AFR head, I see no reason not to run something in that range.