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'98 LS1... rebuild or buy new shortblock?

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Old 04-04-2006, 10:48 AM
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Default '98 LS1... rebuild or buy new shortblock?

So my bottom end is trashed in my '98 LS1 and now I'm contemplating what to do. Here are just a few questions I have that I'm hoping some guys can help me out on... I've searched alot on here but I'm not really finding all my answers.

1) Its a '98 block, should I even both with rebuilding it (.005" hone only, correct)??
2) If I don't use this block, should I build a forged 347 myself or just buy one? (TSP's forged 347 for under $3k is tempting)
3) If I get a newer LS1 block, LS6, or a LQ9 block can I use my '98 heads on it and if so, what head gaskets do I use?? (I was told I can't use certain head gaskets on my '98 block/heads due to some slight difference... not sure what)
4) What are the most popular forged rods, forged pistons, rings, and bearings for these motors?
5) Is it safe to turn a stock crank .010"/.010" or more?
6) If any, what disadvantages are there with a '98 block and a '98 crank?

*I'm sure there are other questions, these are just some that are concerning me right now... I'm trying to get a game plan in line. I want to go 10's with a NA 347/T56 combo... my old combo went 11.50's so I think with a larger cam, a little more headwork, better launch, and more tuning will get me 10.99's or better. Thoughts/comments???


Thanks!
-Jeremy
Old 04-04-2006, 11:03 AM
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I just contemplated the same, and with todays prices on forged shortblocks it became evident that a built shortblock outright was less of a hassle and a good deal.
Old 04-04-2006, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
I just contemplated the same, and with todays prices on forged shortblocks it became evident that a built shortblock outright was less of a hassle and a good deal.
Yeah... hmmmmmmmmm, let's see... spend all the money on getting the stock block/crank checked out, cleaned, machined, then buy forged rods/pistons, buy bearings, put it all together, then cross your fingers and hope everything is right. I think I'll just buy a TSP 347 or something... I just can't justify "risking" it and building one for the time or money.


*I still need some of my other questions answered
Old 04-04-2006, 12:15 PM
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The one regarding your heads, well yes you can reuse those and use 97/98 replacement gasket (with the notch in them).
But, why not update to at least a CNC set from PP while you are at it. $995 for perimiter bolt heads.
Old 04-04-2006, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
The one regarding your heads, well yes you can reuse those and use 97/98 replacement gasket (with the notch in them).
But, why not update to at least a CNC set from PP while you are at it. $995 for perimiter bolt heads.
I'm not going to "upgrade" and pay $1000 for heads I don't need... these heads flow just fine They'll probably get a nice valve job and maybe a little more port work but the guy who did them knows WTF he is doing

*Thanks for the help so far... the "'98 notch" is what I was referring to
Old 04-04-2006, 12:31 PM
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Jeremy,

I'll answer your questions rather than just telling you what "I" did.
1) Its a '98 block, should I even both with rebuilding it (.005" hone only, correct)??
You can take a 98 block to a 3.903 bore. Some have taken it to 3.905 also. Just running NA and you would probiaby be ok with 3.905 pistons.

2) If I don't use this block, should I build a forged 347 myself or just buy one? (TSP's forged 347 for under $3k is tempting)
How skilled are you mechanically? It isn't rocket science but I don't recommend this to be your first engine to rebuild unless you have some help from a friend that has eithor A done it before or B is fairly mechanically inclined. Another set of eyes is always helpful.
3) If I get a newer LS1 block, LS6, or a LQ9 block can I use my '98 heads on it and if so, what head gaskets do I use?? (I was told I can't use certain head gaskets on my '98 block/heads due to some slight difference... not sure what)
Yes you must use the 97/98 graphite gaskets
4) What are the most popular forged rods, forged pistons, rings, and bearings for these motors?
There are a ton of rod choices out there and there isn't just one in particular to use. Heck even the stock rods are pretty decent and if you are going NA or HC with a 150 shot or so you should be ok no problems.
5) Is it safe to turn a stock crank .010"/.010" or more?
Yes yes yes yes to .010 on the mains and rods. I think you can go more on the rods being they are SBC journal sizes but I don't think it is recommended.
6) If any, what disadvantages are there with a '98 block and a '98 crank?
None they are the same cranks all the way through.

It's up to you. If you want to have the pride or shame of saying "I ran XX.XX and I built the motor or depending POS" Then yeah go for it. It is alittle cheaper to build it yourself but it isn't all that much in comparision to the cost of the parts and machining labor.
Old 04-04-2006, 12:35 PM
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Kossuth- thanks for the info Pretty much what I was looking for. I'm more than mechanically inclined but I'd honestly just rather buy a forged shortblock and be done with it. Thanks again!



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