Starting my forged 346 for the first time have some questions.
04-07-2006, 11:20 AM
#1
Starting my forged 346 for the first time have some questions. I am getting ready to start my new motor and was wondering what I should do for break in? I have done it on an older chevy motor but not yet familiar with what to do with these. Do you still need to do the cam break in for 20 min then shut it down (not sure cause its a roller). Anyway if someone can give me the step by step it would be great!
By the way was anyone else nervous about starting theres for the first time?
Thanks
By the way was anyone else nervous about starting theres for the first time?
Thanks
04-07-2006, 11:27 AM
#2
Pull the fuel pump fuse and disconnect the coil packs and crank it over till it gets oil pressure. Once you see some pressure, put the fuse back in and connect the coil packs and fire her up. There is no cam break in for our hydraulic roller engines but you do need to heat cycle the springs. Get the engine to full operating temp and then let it cool completely down about 2-3 times and you're good to go. This doesn't mean the car just has to sit there, you can be driving it around these first couple times but make sure to keep the RPM's low. Once you're done cycling, you're good to go.
04-07-2006, 11:50 AM
#3
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What parts did you use to forge your 346? I've always liked the idea of having a very reliable and strong motor no matter what I throw at it. I want to forge my motor once I get my ls1. Thanks.
04-07-2006, 12:06 PM
#4
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Pull the fuel pump fuse and disconnect the coil packs and crank it over till it gets oil pressure. Once you see some pressure, put the fuse back in and connect the coil packs and fire her up. There is no cam break in for our hydraulic roller engines but you do need to heat cycle the springs. Get the engine to full operating temp and then let it cool completely down about 2-3 times and you're good to go. This doesn't mean the car just has to sit there, you can be driving it around these first couple times but make sure to keep the RPM's low. Once you're done cycling, you're good to go.
04-07-2006, 12:29 PM
#5
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To insure the rings seat well, vary the engine rpm and load while keeping the rpms below 4000 but not lugging it. A good method would be to lay into it in 3rd gear from 30-60 then let it decelerate. The key is to not cruise at continuous load and rpm. Do this fairly often for the first couple hundred miles, change the oil, and you should be good to go. I also wouldn't change over to synthetic until about 1000 miles.
Jason
Jason
04-07-2006, 01:11 PM
#7
Originally Posted by Allergik2dyin
What parts did you use to forge your 346? I've always liked the idea of having a very reliable and strong motor no matter what I throw at it. I want to forge my motor once I get my ls1. Thanks.
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04-07-2006, 02:52 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Camaro99SS
To insure the rings seat well, vary the engine rpm and load while keeping the rpms below 4000 but not lugging it. A good method would be to lay into it in 3rd gear from 30-60 then let it decelerate. The key is to not cruise at continuous load and rpm. Do this fairly often for the first couple hundred miles, change the oil, and you should be good to go. I also wouldn't change over to synthetic until about 1000 miles.
Jason
Jason
04-07-2006, 03:40 PM
#9
I ran it up on the highway from 3rd to 4th, 4th to 5th, 5th to 6th, varying the rpms for 100 miles. Just ran it up to below redline and let it decel down to 1500, back and forth, never cruising in one RPM. People on the highway that night I'm sure loved me! Then I ripped into it. Changed the oil at 100, 300 and 500. A little overkill but it's my dollar on the new motor not yours. Have 2k on it now, still haven't switched to synthetic but plan to soon (amsoil , $81 for 12 quarts ).
I can just picture leaving the stopsign on the back two wheels.
04-07-2006, 04:42 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by nvmy2000ss
I used the stock crank since theres guys running over 700rwh with it, Lunati pro billet rods, and diamond pistons.
04-07-2006, 06:30 PM
#13
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When I was building sbc's for my 78 z28, my break in procedure (after the cam) was to bring it up to about 70 on the highway being nice and just letting the engine decelerate it to around 30ish. After two tanks of gas I would procede to beat the hell out it. Never blew one btw, only upgraded.
Doug
Doug
04-07-2006, 06:58 PM
#14
It seemed that most were using these rods or carillo rods, I went with Lunati just based on personal prefrence both are good rods. I never looked into the eagles cause I am planning to put my pro charger back on it and run about 10-14#s, I think it would be much safer to run on the pro billet rod than the eagle. If you plan to go N/A then the eagles are a great rod.
04-07-2006, 07:14 PM
#15
Ok guys Just started the car everything sounds great. Drove it down the street and the temperature started to climb almost to the red. Shut it down and got it back home. Checked the water and it was low but not low enough to cause the overheating. I filled it back up and have not fired it back up yet, I figured I would get some input from you guys first. Have any ideas where to start looking for problems?
I still have the original cap so I figured I would start with that and get a new one.
The thermostat is brand new 160. I felt the hoses and they were warm to touch but not really hot and expanding the way they normally are when it over-heats.
Any help would be great.
Thanks
I still have the original cap so I figured I would start with that and get a new one.
The thermostat is brand new 160. I felt the hoses and they were warm to touch but not really hot and expanding the way they normally are when it over-heats.
Any help would be great.
Thanks
04-07-2006, 07:29 PM
#16
You have to keep filling it with coolant/water and burp it out the coolant line connected to the top of the driver's head ( actually a crossover line between heads ). That's the highest point in the system. You'll have air in the system till you get it all out. Disconnect that line and keep it up in the air. Keep filling ( in the driveway while running ) till coolant comes out that little line. Hope I explained that enough! Also put fluid in the overfill tank. Your cap may be fine, I think you just need to get rid of the air in the system. Make sure you hooked up your fans too and that both are coming on.
04-14-2006, 09:45 AM
#19
Good news guys got all the air burped out and no more overheating. Thing souns great. how long should I wait to throw back on the blower? I know the rings should be seated first. I have 38# injectors with the mods below can the computer compensate for those and a tr224 114 cam other than the idle? I realy dont want to pay for a tune twice ( now and then when I put the blower on).
Thanks for all the help guys.
Thanks for all the help guys.
