Crank pulley not all the way on
07-14-2006, 09:52 AM
#1
11Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Crank pulley not all the way on I was driving the car around yesterday and noticing a squeaking sound from the belts. I just sort of sighed and rolled my eyes thinking I'd have to replace an idler pulley or tensioner pulley. When I got home, I looked at it, and the serpentine belt was walking off the tensioner pulley and the power steering pump pulley. Two of the six ridges were actually on the pulleys.
Now, I just got done with a cam install and used a new SLP underdrive pulley with new belts afterward. When we originally put the belt on last weekend, I couldn't tell, but the pulleys aren't lined up. The crank pulley is still out just a bit. When we were putting this new SLP underdrive pulley on after my cam install, we torqued it to 150 ft-lbs with a torque wrench (just to get an idea) and then cranked the **** out of it with a breaker bar and 6-foot cheater. If I had to guess, I'd say we hit 300-350 ft-lbs. This was done using the old crank bolt. We now have the new crank bolt that came with the SLP pulley in there at 37 ft-lbs.
I now have the pulley install tool from 618Hawk, and I'm wondering if the reason behind all this is because the old crank bolt may have bottomed out in the hole. If so, then the torque we were applying was all pushing the bolt against the bottom of the hole and not pushing the pulley on the crank. Hawk's tool won't suffer from this.
Is this a sound theory? Anyone have any other ideas? I certainly don't want to break a bolt off in my crank trying to get this stupid pulley on.
Now, I just got done with a cam install and used a new SLP underdrive pulley with new belts afterward. When we originally put the belt on last weekend, I couldn't tell, but the pulleys aren't lined up. The crank pulley is still out just a bit. When we were putting this new SLP underdrive pulley on after my cam install, we torqued it to 150 ft-lbs with a torque wrench (just to get an idea) and then cranked the **** out of it with a breaker bar and 6-foot cheater. If I had to guess, I'd say we hit 300-350 ft-lbs. This was done using the old crank bolt. We now have the new crank bolt that came with the SLP pulley in there at 37 ft-lbs.
I now have the pulley install tool from 618Hawk, and I'm wondering if the reason behind all this is because the old crank bolt may have bottomed out in the hole. If so, then the torque we were applying was all pushing the bolt against the bottom of the hole and not pushing the pulley on the crank. Hawk's tool won't suffer from this.
Is this a sound theory? Anyone have any other ideas? I certainly don't want to break a bolt off in my crank trying to get this stupid pulley on.
07-14-2006, 10:16 AM
#3
11Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I guess I missed that part. I'm brilliant like that. 
So, do you think the pulley has backed off, or do you think it wasn't on far enough in the first place? I figured that the 240 ft-lbs that the directions recommended would put it on as far as was needed, so I'm assuming that it has backed off.
So, do you think the pulley has backed off, or do you think it wasn't on far enough in the first place? I figured that the 240 ft-lbs that the directions recommended would put it on as far as was needed, so I'm assuming that it has backed off.
07-14-2006, 10:49 AM
#4
TECH Addict
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: H-Town
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think the SLP pulley started backing off.
I would get a new bolt and start over putting it back on. Due to it is a one time use bolt.
Use the old bolt to get it on fully and then remove. Put in new bolt and torque it to 37lbs., and then another 140 degrees.
I would get a new bolt and start over putting it back on. Due to it is a one time use bolt.
Use the old bolt to get it on fully and then remove. Put in new bolt and torque it to 37lbs., and then another 140 degrees.
