dalejr8ls1

iTrader: (1)

Doing H/C swap and was wondering what the best way to get all that graphite off the block. I have used a plastic scrapper times before but I was wondering if I could use lightly a die grinder with an aluminum safe wheel? I am using Cometic MLS gaskets...how sensitive are they to uneven surfaces? Just worried that the block may be too rough maybe?? Any tips on cleaning? Pics...

Xtnct00WS6

iTrader: (8)

Cometics are really sensitive to uneven surfaces. Get that surface as smooth as you practically can.

I used a plastic ice scraper that had a thin metal blade and it worked well. I have heard of people using some kind of plastic attachment for either a drill, die grinder or a dremel. I forget which one it was, but it has plastic teeth and it's supposed to be pretty good. You'll be fine with an ice scraper though.

ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

I used a razor blade to get all my crap off. I'm using cometics as well and no leaks. As long as you don't go too fast and try to get too much off at once, you're fine. After I got the thick crap off with the blade I used carb cleaner to clean up the leftovers.

jermzz

iTrader: (18)

I used 800 grit sand paper I Think. The plastic scraper wasnt working for me.

jermzz

iTrader: (18)

I guess it was 250 grit. Here's the thread from my first head swap. It should help you a lot.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=sand

Evans752

iTrader: (29)

I always use a 90 degree die grinder and get some buffing pads off of snap-on truck. They look plastick but work great on aluminum.

Craig@ETPerformance

iTrader: (1)

Just use a razor blade and some brake clean. DO NOT EVER use a wheel to clean the deck of a head or block these are areas where you cannot do that. The block side should be fine, just clean off and let it ride the factory gaskets are MLS. The Cometic gaskets are real particular to finish, on a non MLS gasket I have seen wheels work because they can be rougher and still seal but it is still a bad idea. You can do that on the intake face, exhaust face and pan rail. Using a wheel all you are doing with that is leaving grooves on the deck and making it uneven this may cuase a blown head gasket or a coolant leak down the road.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

acetone and a plastic sponge...

bandit_99

i used brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads after I used a razor blade to get all the big stuff. I tried a rotary tool with rubber fingers that my buddy uses to prep decks for new MLS gaskets, but it didn't work that well for me and I got tired of hearing the compressor filling- so I dumped it and stuck with the method I described earlier. I spent about 3 hours when it was all said and done, but I really took my time and could have done it in half that without all the beer breaks.

jub jub

Same here.

dalejr8ls1

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the tips...just wasnt sure how those MLS gaskets would react to using a wheel w/ the plastic buffer or something aluminum safe.

CBX

Like someone else here posted, I used a razor blade for the big stuff, then brake cleaner with a scotchbrite pad. Really the scotchbrite pad is the thing that gets the best results, plus a little elbow grease.

CBX

I also used the scotchbrite pad to clean up the tops of my pistons. Works great.

dalejr8ls1

iTrader: (1)

Scotchbright and brake cleaner for the piston tops, correct? And I guess a lot of time as well. You have to make sure the surface of the piston is cleaned evenly right?