davo

I am working on a new project car. It is an 87 Conquest. The car has already been back halfed, has a new Curries 9" rear end assembly, Competition Engineering ladder bar set up, and an 8 point cage. I want an Gen III power plant and have been reading so much material for the past 3 months, asking questions to local people here. I see you guys are just plain out the GURU's of the Gen III's.

The car is estimated to weigh in at about 2700 lbs with a driver.

I want the engine to be able to run VERY well N/A and take a good shot of nitrous. No turbo or blower's.

I will be running a th350 built with a trans brake.

I have had people tell me just run a stock motor, others say stock with a built bottom end, some say go big displacement.. So at this point I am so confused.

I have been thinking more and more about a 408 iron block, with high comp and use nitrous.

I am here to ask for anyone who reads this to please chime in and say what you would use and why, and maybe what head and cam combo you would run.

This will also be a track car only vehicle and no street...

Any input would be greatly appreciated..

Thansk David

Gold Z

iTrader: (3)

The first thing you have to do is figure out what class you want to run. Then you need to figure out how fast you need to run. Different classes have different rules some of which may influence your engine build. Assuming you will be running brackets at an eighth mile track, like most of the population, a mid five second ET will be enough to be in the thick of things. That ET won't take a huge amount of horsepower in a 2700 pound car. I would stay away from the iron block based engines because they carry a 100 pound weight penalty which would be right in the front of your short wheelbase car. 500 hp NA LSx base engines are getting common now so building one shouldn't be a problem. 500 hp should be good for mid 5's or lower without nitrous. Good luck with your car.

davo

Well we have a full 1/4 mile tracks here and that is where I intend to run most of time.
So then would an iron block be ok or still go aluminum.

Gold Z

iTrader: (3)

I would still go with the aluminum block. That extra 100 pounds on the front end is a real pain.

davo

Ok so aluminum block it is then.

Ok now engine combination.. stock, 383, 402?

Anyone?

SMonty

iTrader: (8)

Whats your budget? And what times do you wanna run?

davo

Times I would like to see the car in the mid 9's at 4400 ft altitude on nitrous, in the mid to high 10's N/A and right now no budget, I GOT CASH!!!

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

the iron block would be safer to run in an all out drag car and the weight penalty could easily be offset with more power especially in a light car....

davo

Why would the iron block be safer in your opinon.

Also can a high comp 402 aluminum block take a good shot of nitrous?

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

iron=strength!
if you wanna spray and not think twice...IRON...if you want to spray and hold your breath, alum.....its all in what you feel like putitng up with! (this is all based on the fact that you will use a big shot to get into the 9's)

Gold Z

iTrader: (3)

If money is not a problem then I would investigate having Katech build a Warhawk block based engine. Expect to pay $20,000+.

tbojbob

Well said!

Gold Z

iTrader: (3)

Just exactly how is a steel block any stronger than an aluminum block for nitrous? The cylinder heads are still aluminum. The combustion chambers are in the heads. The cylinder walls are steel liners in the aluminum block. You experts obviously don't have any experience running high shots of nitrous in both blocks. I defy you to show us just two examples of an aluminum block failing because of alot of nitrous.