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Generation III Internal Engine
1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:55 PM   #1
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Default What are signs of a failing camshaft position sensor?

Anyone? ...also, is there a write up on how to replace it?

Thanks
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Old 08-21-2006, 10:05 PM   #2
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the camshaft postion sensor is behind the intake the easyest way to change it is pull the intake and and its one bolt i think its 10mm unscrew it pull it out put the new one in tightnin back down and go on
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Old 08-22-2006, 02:43 AM   #3
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a code?
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:13 AM   #4
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out of whack timing....misfire, or wont start at all I would think. imo. I'm no expert but I do work on plenty of cars, just never anything dealing with that yet.
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black1999-z28
the camshaft postion sensor is behind the intake the easyest way to change it is pull the intake and and its one bolt i think its 10mm unscrew it pull it out put the new one in tightnin back down and go on
Damn, It sounds like its more work just to take off the manifold, than to actually change out the sensor.


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Originally Posted by mr2guru
a code?
Yeah - a code would be obvious, but I don't have one!


Here is a list of symptoms, that is leading me to the sensor:
- occasional backfire
- occasional popping
- occasional flashing SES (plugs, wires & coils are perfect)
- at certain startups, the car will run terrible, upon acceleration there is hesitating & stumbling.

Problems were intermittent, but are becoming more frequent.

My thoughts are the camshaft position sensor may be dying out, but not enough to throw a code or shut down the car completely.
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Old 08-22-2006, 12:31 PM   #6
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i have an extra camshaft sensor i got with my crank position sensor. if you figure out thats what it is, ill sell it to you.
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Old 08-22-2006, 01:20 PM   #7
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With a bad sensor the car will hesitate, run very rich, and back fire. The cam sensor controls timing for cylinders 2-8, and the crank sensor sets for number 1. I would check wiring for pinches or burnt wires. May want to start by swaping the cam sensor if the wiring for crank and cam sensor look to be ok. The cam sensor is very sensitive and any marks on it will not let it work correctly.
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:01 PM   #8
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a faulty camshaft position sensor will cause hard starts, and your fuel economy would be way down, because your injectors would go into "batch fire" spraying all of them on one bank at the same time hoping to catch an intake valve open.

this might sound dumb, but make sure that it is plugged in properly.
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:29 PM   #9
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Hey thanks Strokedls1 & 2000transamws6! Thats some good information.

When I get home tonight, I'll try and feel back down in there - but i'll probably end up having to take the intake manifold off to see whats going on back there.
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:10 PM   #10
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Okay, so I yanked off the intake manifold & removed the camshaft sensor.

The wires look fine, not pintched or broken & the sensor itself 'looks' okay, Im not sure if one can tell if its damaged or not, visually.

Anyway I can test this thing?
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:34 PM   #11
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Not that I know of. I just swapped mine for another one I had lieing around. Maybe borrow one from a friend for testing purposes.
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:01 PM   #12
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i think i have a bad one too.my car is showing all those symtoms.fuel pressure is fine,but my car dont want to fire up on the first try.

where is the best place to get a new one?will oreilys be fine?
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Old 08-23-2006, 12:55 AM   #13
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If you have a bad cam sensor you will throw at least 1 of 3 different codes. The car can still start with a bad sensor, but it will take excessive cranking. You mentioned a flashing SES light; what codes are recorded?
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Old 08-23-2006, 08:45 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrkPhx
If you have a bad cam sensor you will throw at least 1 of 3 different codes. The car can still start with a bad sensor, but it will take excessive cranking. You mentioned a flashing SES light; what codes are recorded?
I only have LS1 Edit, which can read/reset codes, but its not the best software for codes. Anyway, last night before I removed the intake/sensor, I drove her around for awhile...it ran terrible, along with flashing SES light. The flashing would flash for a few mins, then stop, flash, stop. Then, finally, a stedy SES light. Actually I was glad, so now a code was set that I could read.

LS1 edit showed a '34' and '43'. Which translate into P0340 & P0430:
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)

Anyway, it wasnt easy to find one of these locally - but I managed. I'll pick up the replacement part this afternoon, and get it installed & put back together tonight.

With a little (okay, with a lot) of luck, it'll clear all this up.
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Old 08-23-2006, 09:40 AM   #15
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good work!
post up and let us know if that fixed it.
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Old 08-23-2006, 12:11 PM   #16
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I had a bad sensor with no codes. I had no idea it could be a cam sensor until I talked to some knowledgeable tuning people.
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:17 AM   #17
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Okay, I got the new sensor installed last night. The car started up fine & idled good. Drove it into work today, and it seemed to be fine.

I should know for sure after about 2-3 days of driving it.
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:41 PM   #18
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Well, no luck. I'm still having the same problem with the car.

But, I have been able to understand when its going to act up, and when it'll run okay.

If the car has been sitting for a while, basically cold, it'll start up, idle and run A+.

Its when I've parked it, for a 'short' period of time, like 2-5 mins or so, then start it back up (warm). It will still start up, run and idle good enough, but when dirving away is when it'll be fighting me, choking, studdering, etc!

If I shut it back off, & start it uo again, it'll probably be okay, if not, a 3rd shut down/start up will clear it up.

Anyone have a clue what is going on with this thing???
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Old 08-26-2006, 10:24 AM   #19
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If you've been recording the misfires in a log, swap injectors for the one that's misfiring the worst. You can get a noid light too to make sure all 8 injectors are firing, the light runs $30-$60.
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Old 08-26-2006, 03:40 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper
If you've been recording the misfires in a log, swap injectors for the one that's misfiring the worst. You can get a noid light too to make sure all 8 injectors are firing, the light runs $30-$60.
Oh - Where do I find a 'noid light'?
I havnt heard of it before.
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Old 08-26-2006, 03:40 PM
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