ezrollin

In my haynes it says to take the vehicle from 30mph -> 50mph -> 30mph x12 times to fully seat the rings.
It says to drive the vehicle gently (no sustained high speeds) for the first 500miles. I've also heard not to take it over like 2500 rpms.

This is what I did so far:
I was having trouble with my tranny! LoL
I couldnt get it out of 1st gear! My shifter cable is messed up or something!
So I took it down my street like x15 times going from max of 3000rpms back down to 2000rpms. Will this hurt it??????????????????????????????????
I've also heard of hard break-ins where the owner drives it like he stole it because he is gonna run high boost and he wants to break it in the same way he drives it. (i think this is stupid)

ezrollin

oh ya,
4.10s in a 4 speed auto

slow67

iTrader: (2)

This is teh way I've always been told how to break it in. Ya know, if its gonna break it will probably be now more likely than later. I have seen many cars break in the rings in in the staging lanes/burnout box.

On another note, a good friend of mine broke the motor in on his 67 chevy pickup, and he *****-footed it for the first 500 miles. 6 months later, his ring seal went to ****.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

i too believe in the break it in as youre gonna drive it method.

for engines, transmissions, rear ends, *****, and anything else

magius231

iTrader: (8)

too late for you, but...

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

My engine builder breaks in his engines by planting them up against a pole and burning the tires off the car. They run good too

Sbertolone

iTrader: (5)

from my experience drivng the tires off the car when its new seems to make the fasest cars.

machinistone

Been breaking in motors that same way since before that guy was on the internet...

The procedure he outlines is the only way to really seat rings well and I live by it with no ring seal issues ever.

ezrollin

thanks guys! that guy really sounds like he knows his ****!
Its only been about a mile and my oil looked all grey (small metal shavings).
I will go out and give it hell from now on!!!
and give the ***** hell too!

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I lay into them a bit but I don't drive it like you stole it.Had 2 customer's do that and they wiped out there Main bearings within 1500 miles.

automac4u

watch your oil,replace your oil&filter when needed

PREDATOR-Z

Rings seal in the first 20 minutes.
Use break in oil (non synth), After start up, let it reach operating temps, fill radiator full, rev a few times till red line without hitting rev limiter 5>6K, then do 2>3 heat cycles. Change oil again.
Worked for me so far, my latest 370 doesn't burn a drop of oil. LME all the way
After 500 miles or so, change oil to your favorite.

ezrollin

whats LME? ah, i got it, the engine seller obviously

I used 5w-30 for cold start protection, but some people are saying I should've stuck to 10w-30.
So I should let it cool all the way down(0F) then heat it back up(210F) about x3 times?
So if I have already ran it 20 minutes then the rings wont seat anymore? and they are already broke in?

ezrollin

I found this off that link that Magius231 gave me! http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Magius, what does 231 stand for? a 231 cu in v6? 3.8L? Thats what I have

ezrollin

thats an awesome link! great info! thanks Magius231!

magius231

iTrader: (8)

no problem!

yeah, my first love is the Buick TR, 231 CI turbo, can't beat it. I will own one someday

ezrollin

dam good thing I used Lucas oil stabilizer cause it is 100% petroleum and it is best to use 100% petroleum oil on break-in!

Are you talking about the Grand National? sorry I'm sloooooww

ezrollin

you know the v6 f-body can be rebuilt for boost (or get an L67 motor) and boost it just like a GN only better

ezrollin

these dinasaur (sp) oils dont say they are made from petroleum but they say they are certified by the American Petroleum Institute.