matula11

iTrader: (2)

is it possible to but in new rod bolts without taking out the rods. i the motor is out of the car and on a stand, is it possible?

rollinna65

iTrader: (18)

Yeah, just pull the oil pan and windage tray and swap them out one at a time. You'll have to remove the pickup tube also. I've had my bolts for about 6 months now but they're such a pain in the *** to install. I'll get around to it some day.

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

yeah. but i know on my KATECHs you had to press out the ferrul.

you CANNOT get the caps mixed up though.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

If you do one bolt at a time, the cap wil never be removed, and since one side is tight at all times, it wont even shift. You can pull out the ferrule with the old bolt.

PREDATOR-Z

^ what he said^

ArrestMeRed99Z28

iTrader: (1)

where can i find a good write-up for this instillation, how much time does it usually take with the engine in the car and no air tools? Seems like pretty good insurance for just under 90 bucks. now if only a 12 bolt were cheap insurance too...

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

near impossible to do in the car.

slowscott

iTrader: (8)

Shops pull the motor just to do rod bolts?

redtail2426

iTrader: (10)

i did mine in the car and it was not that bad at all.

kwiksilverz

What are these ferrules have to come out? There was no mention of this in the ARP instructions when I did the bolts in my LS2. I just unthreaded the old bolts from the rod and then the car and threaded the ARP's in with no problems at all.
Joe

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

well i belive you need to at least partialy drop/ lift the motor.. if not completely remove the k member..

IMO on any head/cam swap the motor should be removed...

97MysticZ

iTrader: (16)

Can I ask why you have that opinion??? Other than wanting to do extra work for no reason??

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

1. friend broke off a headbolt.

2. another guy on here stripped out his threads

3. its not that much more work to take it out

4. its 456789678 times easier to work on it outside the car

RoastEmSS

well not everyone has a cherry picker...

97MysticZ

iTrader: (16)

So how would having the motor out of the car stop them from breaking bolts or stripping out threads?? They probably didn't know what they were doing in the first place so they probably don't have any business removing a motor.
And if you think the LS1 is hard to work on, go work on an LT1...

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

back headbolt, back by the ac unit... it happens to the best of us

still easier to pull motor, do the stall/shiftkit at the same time

dvandentop

iTrader: (1)

i should do this in the ls2 long block i am getting in the freight here in a few days

gillbot

iTrader: (27)

I've done a few cam swaps, there is no reason to pull the motor. If something is gonna break, it will break on a stand just as easily as it will in the car.

frijolee

iTrader: (12)

If you're using the ARP headbolts, especially the pros, you need to resize the rod ends (that is in their instructions). Basically means that the bigger heaver bolts can deform the large end of the con rod enough to cause you unhappy bearing wear. Some folks have done this without resizing but it's kinda like getting away with one and certainly not the right way to do this.

This is pretty much the big differentiator between ARPs and the Katechs.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

As far as I know, not a single person has had any problem due to not resizing the rods with ARP bolts. A while back, a tool and die maker measured Stock, Katech, and ARP bolts with some precision equipment and posted the results. His findings were that the ARP should not pose any problem to the rod.

If you decide (anyone) decides to go with katech, its because they are the superior bolt in terms of tensile strength and light weight, not to mention customer service and knowledge second to none. Dont do it because someone scared you into believeing the ARP bolts will trash your motor.

Just my opinion, but it is based on many, many accounts.