f**k doubleroller chain!!(problems)
#1
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f**k doubleroller chain!!(problems)
ok. u gotta c5 so those who know its a pain to change oil pump because steering rack has to be removed. i did h/c swap and (upgraded) to rollmaster double roller chain...BIG MISTAKE. got car back together car ran about 5 mins, BAM! 1st oil pump goes. remove balancer and see where the ouside diameter of the hub on the pulley had been rubbing the gear in the oil pump, binding it up. so i take to machine shop have some clearance cut down on the hub replace pump, balancer clears, crank it up after about 2 seconds BAM AGAIN! ok now i see where timing cover has a dent in it where its pressing against the spaced out pump,(spaced to clear the infamous double roller) so i do some research and then grind the **** outta my cover dye the inside with ink install pump and bolt up timing cover, remove timing cover, no scratches on the ink, everything seems to have clearance now. fire it up again finally got it right,,,so i thought. dynoed it, did good by the way 417 sae with patriot stage II's and torquerII cam, put about 100 miles on car and was just pulling in my driveway after a hard run and BAM! 3rd oil pump goes. just took it apart 3rd oil pump dead, hole in timing cover where i ground clearance(when oil pump locks up it goes to pieces and pickup tube breaks completely away from pump.) i dont know what to do now. i read where you still gotta grind the QTP aftermarket cover to clear chain. im scared to remove double roller chain and sprokets because i dont want cam to move and mess up timing. the cover is so beat up now, i cant tell if it was rubbing a little or if oilpump just sucked up some trash and locked up. WHY DO THEY SELL THESE CHAINS IF THEY HAVE THIS MANY ISSUES???? any advice?? i guess im gona line it back up on tdc hope nothing moves and install new single roller chain and a new oil pump for the fourth time. also gonna completely remove oil pan to get any metal out i cant see.
#3
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maybe so, but i used the spacers provided to clear chain and it hit the timing cover. i have since read doing searchs that im not the only one who had to grind timing cover. i feel pretty sure that it locked up this time do to excessive metal making its way to the pump and locking it up. excessive metal coming from the remains of the other 2 broken pumps. which i still blame the spaced oil pump for. ive also read where people have had the chain rub a hole in the pump with the provided spacers in place. lose , lose situation. now i read that you even gotta grind on the qtp cover to clear pick up tube. a friend just let me know that he got a pump from victory racing that was clearanced for chain and he didnt have to grind anything. gonna call them tomorow i guess.
#4
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That is why I've always said, double rollers on LSx are overkill unless it is a race application.
J-WISS and now LS2 chains are plenty, or single adjustable.
There is also the front bearing issue (never really proven/disproven), but the duals are too tight.
I've had a double roller sitting on my shelf for over 3 years now, still collecting dust.
J-WISS and now LS2 chains are plenty, or single adjustable.
There is also the front bearing issue (never really proven/disproven), but the duals are too tight.
I've had a double roller sitting on my shelf for over 3 years now, still collecting dust.
#5
Here's a problem solver....get the kit with the SLP double roller and the SLP HD oil pump....here's why. The SLP Oil pump is already clearanced so you DON'T have to use the spacers on the ports. We had this same problem with the oil pump hitting the timming cover with a stock pump and the spacers! Screw that grinding the cover crap...if there is a product that fits without mods....I'll pay extra for it. Make sure that you prelube the pump an always check the clearance between the pump backing and the chain. Since you have the Double roller just get the SLP HD pump...if you look at the back you will see that it has been milled to clear...but always double check! Good Luck....hope this helps
Predator-Z,
I'll be in your neck-of-the-woods soon...I love deployments
Predator-Z,
I'll be in your neck-of-the-woods soon...I love deployments
Last edited by Rabidbandit; 10-12-2006 at 07:28 AM.
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
That is why I've always said, double rollers on LSx are overkill unless it is a race application.
J-WISS and now LS2 chains are plenty, or single adjustable.
There is also the front bearing issue (never really proven/disproven), but the duals are too tight.
I've had a double roller sitting on my shelf for over 3 years now, still collecting dust.
J-WISS and now LS2 chains are plenty, or single adjustable.
There is also the front bearing issue (never really proven/disproven), but the duals are too tight.
I've had a double roller sitting on my shelf for over 3 years now, still collecting dust.
#11
I had a double heat treated RollMaster with trustbearing in my stroker engine and it broke at the track above 6000 rpm. I bent 14 valves and oil pump was completely destroyed. Cover was ok I think that my double rollers was too tight. It was not my first engine built and I'm 110% sure it was installed properly. There was absolutely not slack in the chain (Maybe too tight)
I replaced it with the LS2 chain with stock LS1 sprockets and so far so good. The LS2 chain is more loose than the RollMaster and is working great.
SSDION
I replaced it with the LS2 chain with stock LS1 sprockets and so far so good. The LS2 chain is more loose than the RollMaster and is working great.
SSDION
#12
Originally Posted by SSDION
I had a double heat treated RollMaster with trustbearing in my stroker engine and it broke at the track above 6000 rpm. I bent 14 valves and oil pump was completely destroyed. Cover was ok I think that my double rollers was too tight. It was not my first engine built and I'm 110% sure it was installed properly. There was absolutely not slack in the chain (Maybe too tight)
I replaced it with the LS2 chain with stock LS1 sprockets and so far so good. The LS2 chain is more loose than the RollMaster and is working great.
SSDION
I replaced it with the LS2 chain with stock LS1 sprockets and so far so good. The LS2 chain is more loose than the RollMaster and is working great.
SSDION
How much modification did the ls2 chain require, I was thinking of going that route
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Originally Posted by 2scoot
That sucks! I put a Roll Master double on my C5 but have had zero issues. And this is with a UD pulley as well. Something else is wrong here.....
but as i read this it makes me think
and that sux 12leavu, pulling the steering rack out blows. i always get the steering pump fluid all over the place, that blows
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I had the same issue with my front cover and my Rollmaster/oil pump. The spacers included with the Rollmaster chain put the oil pump out far enough that it was hitting the front cover. I had to grind the **** out of my cover to get it to fit without touching the oil pump. The cover is on and torqued. The block is out of the car and Im about to instal my heads.
Hmmmm maybe the extra money for the ls2 timing chain might be worth it. What do you guys think?
Hmmmm maybe the extra money for the ls2 timing chain might be worth it. What do you guys think?
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SO many stock single chains with SO many hard miles with NO problems..... In MHO I have always thought that the stock setup way always OK for 99% of setups...sure I will catch some flack for this.
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Originally Posted by ss rally red
SO many stock single chains with SO many hard miles with NO problems..... In MHO I have always thought that the stock setup way always OK for 99% of setups...sure I will catch some flack for this.
#18
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extra money for an LS2? an LS2 chain with cam and crank sprockets is about $40 new from GM. did you mean extra since you already bought a double roller? if its undamaged you could probably sell it for at least 40 bucks lol
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yea, double rollers suck..... my tach wouldnt work after a camswap, and it took me almost 8 months to figure out what was going on. i had the slp double roller and a tsp ls6 pump, and the chain had been rubbing. i just replaced it with an ls2, no more probs!