a few oil pump/double roller chain tips
10-16-2006, 02:09 AM
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a few oil pump/double roller chain tips tought id give a few pointers for this swap. i learned the hard way.
i got a double roller chain, and home ported,shimmed oil pump.
a pic of one mod- s/s phillips bolts for extra timing cover clearance.
my local speed shop told me to grind the factory bolts before even test fitting as it would hit the cover- didnt try.. anyone experience that?
^ as so i picked up some stainless steel phillips bolts from local hardware store to gain clearance and get new threads. the phillips screws were blue loctighted.
an easy install tool for the crank gear is the old gear slide it on then use a hammer to seat it. or use the crank bolt with some washers to push both gears on till the new one seats( in case your worried about damaging the gear (soposedly cant take much of a shock due to it being forged ... forged =hard, but brittle)
if you take off your oil pump cover be sure to inspect bolt threads as i didnt and many of the bolts had damaged threads stripping out my tsp ported oil pumps threads,making me resort to porting my stocker and stealing the internals from the tsp pump, now i hafto make bigger threads throughtout+buy bigger bolts if i want to get any money back for the ported/damaged tsp ported pump.
when centering the pump, use two feeler guages at two low points nexto eachother then push up on the pump while tighting two pump bolts one on each side, then check clearance all around, it should be good if you used my method. loctight other two bolts tighten then unbolt previous bolts to loctight.
a good tool for turning the crank is the crank bolt with about 4 or 5 thick washers on it.
hopefully this helps some one else avoid my few headach's with the double roller chain.
i got a double roller chain, and home ported,shimmed oil pump.
a pic of one mod- s/s phillips bolts for extra timing cover clearance.
my local speed shop told me to grind the factory bolts before even test fitting as it would hit the cover- didnt try.. anyone experience that?
^ as so i picked up some stainless steel phillips bolts from local hardware store to gain clearance and get new threads. the phillips screws were blue loctighted.
an easy install tool for the crank gear is the old gear slide it on then use a hammer to seat it. or use the crank bolt with some washers to push both gears on till the new one seats( in case your worried about damaging the gear (soposedly cant take much of a shock due to it being forged ... forged =hard, but brittle)
if you take off your oil pump cover be sure to inspect bolt threads as i didnt and many of the bolts had damaged threads stripping out my tsp ported oil pumps threads,making me resort to porting my stocker and stealing the internals from the tsp pump, now i hafto make bigger threads throughtout+buy bigger bolts if i want to get any money back for the ported/damaged tsp ported pump.
when centering the pump, use two feeler guages at two low points nexto eachother then push up on the pump while tighting two pump bolts one on each side, then check clearance all around, it should be good if you used my method. loctight other two bolts tighten then unbolt previous bolts to loctight.
a good tool for turning the crank is the crank bolt with about 4 or 5 thick washers on it.
hopefully this helps some one else avoid my few headach's with the double roller chain.
Last edited by 00454sscamaro; 10-27-2006 at 04:16 PM.
10-16-2006, 12:21 PM
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Thanks for the write up. Im about to embark on this journy myself. However Im a little confused on your centering method. Having a hard time picturing it. Also what did your 00SSm6 dyno/track because Im getting the same cam and heads? Thanks.
10-16-2006, 01:41 PM
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im still waiting for a few parts. so im not done yet.
the centering method , is pretty easy- there are teeth on the crank gear to turn the pump, the high parts on the crank gear is where you want to slide the feeler gauges over until they go all the way through the pump, (this requires two feeler gauges.002 thick) there should be two oriented twoards the bottom , or floor once the feeler gauges are in there, push upwards on the pump, then tighten a bolt on each side. and measure the rest of the teeth they should have clearance doing it this way. also helps to have them started not touching the oil pump though as its very hard to move if theres any clamping force on the pump. if you look at the crank gear and the back oil pump its easier to see what im talking about (there is a ridge inside the pump houseing that needs .002 of clearance from the crank gear)
the centering method , is pretty easy- there are teeth on the crank gear to turn the pump, the high parts on the crank gear is where you want to slide the feeler gauges over until they go all the way through the pump, (this requires two feeler gauges.002 thick) there should be two oriented twoards the bottom , or floor once the feeler gauges are in there, push upwards on the pump, then tighten a bolt on each side. and measure the rest of the teeth they should have clearance doing it this way. also helps to have them started not touching the oil pump though as its very hard to move if theres any clamping force on the pump. if you look at the crank gear and the back oil pump its easier to see what im talking about (there is a ridge inside the pump houseing that needs .002 of clearance from the crank gear)
10-16-2006, 03:16 PM
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might rub alil, but the guy at my local speed shop told me he just eyballed it and made sure it spun freely. there is an actual gm tool for doing this so im thinking its somewhat important.
